GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Hey all,
I drug home another one.
95 K3500 CCLB DRW 6.5L 5spd 4wd.
It has about 250K on it, story goes he was just driving along and it just shut off, never to start again. Owner claims to be a good mechanic and has had a few 6.5Ls over the years and claimed it has to be the IP
I cracked the drain plug, normal looking black oil, no coolant in oil. only about 1 gallon low on coolant, (sat 5 years roughly) oil cooler lines look good on block, minor seepage at crimp, and the motor was full of oil and rocked over by hand, and starter bolts and brace were intact, so I paid the guy and drug it home.
Now, its home and I'm trying to get the ol sow to fire, It would be nice to drive it off the truck, but not a requirement.
Battery cables are pretty junky, newer but undersized starter cable, clamp on terminals, etc. cleaned it up a little, and put a decent set of batteries in. (Still room for improvement here)
OPS is bad, so I have the LP relay temporarily bypassed with a wire, bleeds the filter fine and squirts out at the t-valve, even at the t-valve the diesel is pretty clean looking so I dont think the system is contaminated (came from northern CO, so condensation is minimal compared to the corn belt)
PMD is on a bracket above the LH valve cover and has an undersized heatsink, so I plugged in my known good Heath PMD kit. Heath kit has a resistor.
IP has a green tag under the one screw, and the FSO has a crisp looking label on it, when key is turned it will magnetize and pull a wrench (lightly) I removed FSO and when you hotwire LP it gushes out of the hole (also clean looking fuel) , plunger moves by hand (though to keep from getting the FSO dirty and me working alone I did not verify with key on, I probably need to do this still)
Will not pump fuel out of DS front injector line, and of course no smoke. Spins over fine. I have had working block heater plugged in this whole time. Wont even try. I squirted a little WD40 into the one middle intake hole, but working alone I cant fog it properly, so I didnt get too crazy, didnt seem to try at all.
Grounds are not great. chassis to engine is not on the intake stud, but is on a bellhousing bolt. I got a skimpy set of jumper cables and clamped one end to the intake stud, went over the fender and down to the chassis.
Harness grounds are intact and look good. I need to run another from the cab to the engine. This could be the issue, as the ECM grounds this way, correct?
All fuses check out fine. dash lights up and does the bulb check and glows run and everything seems fine in that regard.
I currently have CTS unplugged for max glow time.
I did unhook the CPS once and no change.
Any suggestions? I am leaning towards IP issues. With the non-OP LP thanks to bad OPS and presumed lack of fuel additive, I am thinking it was out of lube internally and finally seized something.
I drug home another one.
95 K3500 CCLB DRW 6.5L 5spd 4wd.It has about 250K on it, story goes he was just driving along and it just shut off, never to start again. Owner claims to be a good mechanic and has had a few 6.5Ls over the years and claimed it has to be the IP
I cracked the drain plug, normal looking black oil, no coolant in oil. only about 1 gallon low on coolant, (sat 5 years roughly) oil cooler lines look good on block, minor seepage at crimp, and the motor was full of oil and rocked over by hand, and starter bolts and brace were intact, so I paid the guy and drug it home.
Now, its home and I'm trying to get the ol sow to fire, It would be nice to drive it off the truck, but not a requirement.
Battery cables are pretty junky, newer but undersized starter cable, clamp on terminals, etc. cleaned it up a little, and put a decent set of batteries in. (Still room for improvement here)
OPS is bad, so I have the LP relay temporarily bypassed with a wire, bleeds the filter fine and squirts out at the t-valve, even at the t-valve the diesel is pretty clean looking so I dont think the system is contaminated (came from northern CO, so condensation is minimal compared to the corn belt)
PMD is on a bracket above the LH valve cover and has an undersized heatsink, so I plugged in my known good Heath PMD kit. Heath kit has a resistor.
IP has a green tag under the one screw, and the FSO has a crisp looking label on it, when key is turned it will magnetize and pull a wrench (lightly) I removed FSO and when you hotwire LP it gushes out of the hole (also clean looking fuel) , plunger moves by hand (though to keep from getting the FSO dirty and me working alone I did not verify with key on, I probably need to do this still)
Will not pump fuel out of DS front injector line, and of course no smoke. Spins over fine. I have had working block heater plugged in this whole time. Wont even try. I squirted a little WD40 into the one middle intake hole, but working alone I cant fog it properly, so I didnt get too crazy, didnt seem to try at all.
Grounds are not great. chassis to engine is not on the intake stud, but is on a bellhousing bolt. I got a skimpy set of jumper cables and clamped one end to the intake stud, went over the fender and down to the chassis.
Harness grounds are intact and look good. I need to run another from the cab to the engine. This could be the issue, as the ECM grounds this way, correct?
All fuses check out fine. dash lights up and does the bulb check and glows run and everything seems fine in that regard.
I currently have CTS unplugged for max glow time.
I did unhook the CPS once and no change.
Any suggestions? I am leaning towards IP issues. With the non-OP LP thanks to bad OPS and presumed lack of fuel additive, I am thinking it was out of lube internally and finally seized something.
