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Does anyone have one of these?

new2diesel08

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I was doing an intake swap today and busted the coolant line on the side of the Dual T-stat Housing. It was all corroded and broke so easily that I'm glad I wasn't stuck on the road.

Anyway I was trying to get the half out from inside the housing when the housing cracked:mad2:

Now I need a new T-stat housing

Does anyone have one or know of one for sale.... i have been searching but can not find one.

Thanks for your help
 
If I am not mistaken what you are talking about is the famous coolant crossover connector. You need 1/2" NPT tap to clean it out. You should be fine. The replacement that the store sell now is made out of steel instead of porous metal. Or you can use 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb connector in place. GM has a part no. that actually have the orifice in it.

They use the same thing for the gasser when I visit FullSizeChevy forum.
 
Thank you 635.... He was kind enough to send me his spare.

The cracked one can be tapped to a straight thread and use a hydraulic fitting that seals with a gasket washer like your oil drain plug rather than with the threads. I used to work for a parts house for hydraulics and this would have been an easy fix then....I would do this but I don't have anyone to weld it back. I'm sure if I looked around i could find someone. Maybe someone here can do it.

Maybe I will and have it for a spare for anyone who needs it.

As was done for me. I will offer it to anyone that could use it.

Unless you would like to have this one 635...
 
Tim,

What size heater hose do you use with the 5/8 barb connector? IIRC, when I did the fix the rubber hose was really hard to get onto the alum part of the heater hose. Per an older thread, I removed the quick fit connector, cut the aluminum part of the heater hose & used the 5/8" barb with hose and clamps.

Yup that is correct 1/2-14 NPT x 5/8" barb, need a 1/2" tap to chase the threads
 
5/8" heater hose, I cut off the end of the aluminum pipe, then double clamp it on that end, and single clamp on the nipple barb end, carry a spare hose for this mine got a pinhole in it drained the coolant, it was nice to be able to do a road side repair on it, imaging where you would be if the OEM fitting blew out or the orings in it started leaking
 

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5/8" heater hose, I cut off the end of the aluminum pipe, then double clamp it on that end, and single clamp on the nipple barb end, carry a spare hose for this mine got a pinhole in it drained the coolant, it was nice to be able to do a road side repair on it, imaging where you would be if the OEM fitting blew out or the orings in it started leaking

Anyone having problems removing this if its PM vs removing this if its broken?

When I unclamp the brace from the intake my quick fitting leaks. Fascinating as it is, it does not leak once braced back up and under pressure.....

Needless to say, This topic worries me thinking about it again.
 
The fitting is pot metal, IMO remove ASAP, there is a aftermarket replacement same as OEM design that is steel, I just don't like this design invariably it's always gonna fail when you are away from parts you'll need to fix it
 
The fitting is pot metal, IMO remove ASAP, there is a aftermarket replacement same as OEM design that is steel, I just don't like this design invariably it's always gonna fail when you are away from parts you'll need to fix it

are you talking about a steel aftermarket t-stat housing? Where could I find this? I guess it won't really matter, since I'll have a stealership part by then, but I thought I'd check.
 
The part number for the 1/2npt to 5/8 hose with restriction is NAPA 660-1732. I will never buy another quick connect for this application. I put a new one on and it leaked worse than the old one did.
 

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