It smells like its burning
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Since the photos are mine, the words are mine and of course the work is mine, I wanted to share this with you all.
Here’s what I’ve got when I added a Pioneer AVIC-D2 Navigation unit
and the Sirius module that goes with it. Sold separately.
Truck is an 06 2500HD CC 4x4 non-bose system
Parts required:
(1) Pioneer AVIC-D2 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...unit=AVIC D2
2) SIR-PNR2 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...243808,00.html
(3) Steering wheel control module http://www.logjamelectronics.com/soundrempiogm.html
(4) Factory radio harness w/ chimes (no OnStar) http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pacclgmrarea.html
(5) Mounting kit double Din http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1051384084220
(6) AM/FM antenna adapter, GM mini to standard. Picked up at Best buy for $15
(7) Some wire, connectors, hand tools soldering iron. Etc…etc
Some background on my truck.
I have two amps, one for the door speakers and the other for the subwoofer. I’m using the RCA connectors from the back of the head unit to the amps, I’m not using the factory speaker wires. I do not have factory OnStar or XM.
OK here we go. Remember, this DIY is only a guide. Please follow all of the manufacturers instructions. Always remove the negative terminals from the batteries before proceeding. Please take your time by setting aside a few hours to do this. You’ll be the happier for it.
Start by removing the dash bezel, factory radio, and HVAC controls. A 7mm socket or nut driver is all you need.
So here’s what it looks like. It’s nice to be able to work with nothing in your way.
Now lets remove the instrument cluster and find the VSS wire.
Again, a 7mm socket or nut driver to remove the four screws and unplug the single wire connector. Pin #A4-Lt Green w/ white stripe.
Now however you decide, you’ll need to tap the vehicle’s VSS wire to the head unit VSS input. I used an insulated crimp connector.
Now we’ll need to get at the Reverse wire by removing two 7mm screws holding the lower dash cover under the steering wheel. After the screws are removed, the cover pops out. This will take a little pulling. And Wal-lah! The BCM connectors are starring at you. Locate and unplug the J5 connector. It’s the smallest one to the right with 6 terminals of which only three are used. It’s the green wire located on terminal “F”
Now for the Emergency brake wire. You will need to remove the lower drivers-side kick panel, it just pops off. There’s a wire block that is in the way, and easy to remove. Unscrew the large black plastic hex nut, squeeze the sides to remove the cover, now with the block exposed, locate the two squeeze release tabs and squeeze while pulling toward you. The block will swing down and when it does, just put it aside. Now you will notice a single blue wire inside a loom. That’s the wire. I used a scotch lock and tapped into it. Put everything back and run the wire up to the radio compartment.
If you are going to use the steering wheel control module, here is the wire you’ll need to tap. Remember to make sure by reading the instructions for the adapter, not all makes are the same and there are different locations for this wire. At the BCM where we tapped into the reverse wire, unplug the brown connector and cut the wire needed. For my vehicle, I connected to the wire going up the steering column and taped off the wire going to the BCM.
Next its time to get these wires back up to the area around the radio. Here’s where patience comes into play. I used a combination of connectors and the Pac adapter to connect the head unit harness’. Again, use what you like but always check to make sure nothing is loose by giving a finished connector a good tug.
Cut, tape off, get rid of, whatever you decide, there’s are a lot of extra wire in there. I taped off the head unit 50W per side speaker wires and opted to use the RCA connectors (supplied) because I already had them there when I installed my aftermarket amps. After I connected everything, I used electrical tape on the wires to clean them up a bit and make them easier to work with. I also kept the head-unit’s wire identifiers intact. Now stuff all that into the dashboard. I’ve found that there is a lot of room behind the instrument cluster. LOL (Cluster) Notice the small 1/8” 90 degree black plug? This is the connector from the steering wheel control module. It plugs into the back of the headunit.
Now to run the GPs antenna. I chose to mount it inside the vehicle for now. I also ran the Sirius antenna to the same location. I removed the A pillar cover on the passenger side and ran the wires behind the glove box and up. I used a Dremmel tool to cut a notch at the base of the pillar cover so that my wires won’t get pinched. I installed the Sirius module behind the glove box and to the right. You folks with a center console could probably put it in there.
Now we're getting somewhere. With all the wires hooked up and using the cheap plastic mounting hardware from Best buy (another Dremmel tool modification) mount the head unit. It may take a few times getting the mounts to line up to your preference. Put the negative leads back on the batteries and start your engine. Follow the manufactures instructions and enjoy.
The finished look.
Here’s what I’ve got when I added a Pioneer AVIC-D2 Navigation unit
and the Sirius module that goes with it. Sold separately.
Truck is an 06 2500HD CC 4x4 non-bose system
Parts required:
(1) Pioneer AVIC-D2 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...unit=AVIC D2
2) SIR-PNR2 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...243808,00.html
(3) Steering wheel control module http://www.logjamelectronics.com/soundrempiogm.html
(4) Factory radio harness w/ chimes (no OnStar) http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pacclgmrarea.html
(5) Mounting kit double Din http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1051384084220
(6) AM/FM antenna adapter, GM mini to standard. Picked up at Best buy for $15
(7) Some wire, connectors, hand tools soldering iron. Etc…etc
Some background on my truck.
I have two amps, one for the door speakers and the other for the subwoofer. I’m using the RCA connectors from the back of the head unit to the amps, I’m not using the factory speaker wires. I do not have factory OnStar or XM.
OK here we go. Remember, this DIY is only a guide. Please follow all of the manufacturers instructions. Always remove the negative terminals from the batteries before proceeding. Please take your time by setting aside a few hours to do this. You’ll be the happier for it.
Start by removing the dash bezel, factory radio, and HVAC controls. A 7mm socket or nut driver is all you need.
So here’s what it looks like. It’s nice to be able to work with nothing in your way.
Now lets remove the instrument cluster and find the VSS wire.
Again, a 7mm socket or nut driver to remove the four screws and unplug the single wire connector. Pin #A4-Lt Green w/ white stripe.
Now however you decide, you’ll need to tap the vehicle’s VSS wire to the head unit VSS input. I used an insulated crimp connector.
Now we’ll need to get at the Reverse wire by removing two 7mm screws holding the lower dash cover under the steering wheel. After the screws are removed, the cover pops out. This will take a little pulling. And Wal-lah! The BCM connectors are starring at you. Locate and unplug the J5 connector. It’s the smallest one to the right with 6 terminals of which only three are used. It’s the green wire located on terminal “F”
Now for the Emergency brake wire. You will need to remove the lower drivers-side kick panel, it just pops off. There’s a wire block that is in the way, and easy to remove. Unscrew the large black plastic hex nut, squeeze the sides to remove the cover, now with the block exposed, locate the two squeeze release tabs and squeeze while pulling toward you. The block will swing down and when it does, just put it aside. Now you will notice a single blue wire inside a loom. That’s the wire. I used a scotch lock and tapped into it. Put everything back and run the wire up to the radio compartment.
If you are going to use the steering wheel control module, here is the wire you’ll need to tap. Remember to make sure by reading the instructions for the adapter, not all makes are the same and there are different locations for this wire. At the BCM where we tapped into the reverse wire, unplug the brown connector and cut the wire needed. For my vehicle, I connected to the wire going up the steering column and taped off the wire going to the BCM.
Next its time to get these wires back up to the area around the radio. Here’s where patience comes into play. I used a combination of connectors and the Pac adapter to connect the head unit harness’. Again, use what you like but always check to make sure nothing is loose by giving a finished connector a good tug.
Cut, tape off, get rid of, whatever you decide, there’s are a lot of extra wire in there. I taped off the head unit 50W per side speaker wires and opted to use the RCA connectors (supplied) because I already had them there when I installed my aftermarket amps. After I connected everything, I used electrical tape on the wires to clean them up a bit and make them easier to work with. I also kept the head-unit’s wire identifiers intact. Now stuff all that into the dashboard. I’ve found that there is a lot of room behind the instrument cluster. LOL (Cluster) Notice the small 1/8” 90 degree black plug? This is the connector from the steering wheel control module. It plugs into the back of the headunit.
Now to run the GPs antenna. I chose to mount it inside the vehicle for now. I also ran the Sirius antenna to the same location. I removed the A pillar cover on the passenger side and ran the wires behind the glove box and up. I used a Dremmel tool to cut a notch at the base of the pillar cover so that my wires won’t get pinched. I installed the Sirius module behind the glove box and to the right. You folks with a center console could probably put it in there.
Now we're getting somewhere. With all the wires hooked up and using the cheap plastic mounting hardware from Best buy (another Dremmel tool modification) mount the head unit. It may take a few times getting the mounts to line up to your preference. Put the negative leads back on the batteries and start your engine. Follow the manufactures instructions and enjoy.
The finished look.