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Diff oil, and front diff axle seal.

bucholzi

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Did the rear today (had to swap the pinion shaft lock bolt; do I really need to take the bearing caps of to get it out?? :rolleyes5:), but as I grabbed the bag of oil I saw that I had been given the wrong gear oil. As far as I know the rear should have synthetic 75w-90 (GL5), but I got mineral based 80w-90 Shell spirax ax :nono:

Is it a big deal? Can I run it for the summer and swap to the right stuff before the winter?

And what shall I use in the front diff? Also synthetic75w-90?

Also the front axle seal is leaking a bit: Is this an easy swap, or is there a crush sleeve wich complicates matters?
 
You can run that diff oil. The main thing is if you have a posi locker, you need the oil made to maintain you slip clutches.

As for the front diff, it is easiest to pull the whole diff out and do the job with it out. On the passenger side with the 4x4 actuator, you need to remove the axle housing to make sure your fork and ring don't slide out of the groove. Not a bad job. Mine took the better part of the day to do both.
 
You can run that diff oil. The main thing is if you have a posi locker, you need the oil made to maintain you slip clutches.

As for the front diff, it is easiest to pull the whole diff out and do the job with it out. On the passenger side with the 4x4 actuator, you need to remove the axle housing to make sure your fork and ring don't slide out of the groove. Not a bad job. Mine took the better part of the day to do both.

No slip clutches, it's that sentrifugal-activated-locker-thing. That one don't need LS-additive, as far as I know?

You are talking about dropping the front diff to do the seal, I reckon?
 
You are talking about dropping the front diff to do the seal, I reckon?[/QUOTE]

Yep. It's a real bear to do it while in the truck. It can be done, but it is only 5 bolts, the drivelshafts and 1 plug to remove it. The 1500 diffs a quite a bit lighter than the 2500, so should be a bit easier. The axles just pop out of the diff. Use a pry bar and presto, out they come.
 
Yep. It's a real bear to do it while in the truck. It can be done, but it is only 5 bolts, the drivelshafts and 1 plug to remove it. The 1500 diffs a quite a bit lighter than the 2500, so should be a bit easier. The axles just pop out of the diff. Use a pry bar and presto, out they come.

Ok, thanks.

I thought the diesel k1500 actually had k2500 driveline?
 
The mineral Oil was used mainly in Road Ranger Transmissions that I remember. The posi/locker thing IIRC also has clutches as well as mechs. I never liked them. Everyone I had blew to pieces. Then Again I hate 1/2 rears anyway. I actually need to do pass side axle seal on mine. It looked like you could just pull te axle a out and change it but I have never done one . Is there more to it ? If I gotta drop the diff, a lift kit is going back in...:D
 
diesel K1500 have the same drivetrain as lightduty 2500s but the differential on heavyduty 2500 and up are full floater 14 bolts instead of semi float 14 bolt
 
OK I'm talkin front axle. Mines leaking at the flange to the axle shaft.

mine too and also other placesbut last time my truck was on the lift it looked pretty tight up there. it just might be easier to drop the front diff. but you probably could do it with it attached
 
Now that my underside isn't oil soaked. It seems I too have a slight diff leak. Although it appears at quick glance its coming out between the 2 halves, It may be coming from an axle side, havn't really looked too hard at it yet...

Also, the surface of my diff is very clean, and it appears there are a ton of hairline cracks all over it. This normal?.... No Camera still, don't don't throw that sign at me.
 
my front diff had so much sludge and crap on it from oil cooler lines and oil pan gasket leaking that i never got it clean all the way so i wouldn't know. i would assume no though. things never go good when cracks appear
 
my front diff had so much sludge and crap on it from oil cooler lines and oil pan gasket leaking that i never got it clean all the way so i wouldn't know. i would assume no though. things never go good when cracks appear

Took me about 6-7 degreaser cleanings w/compressed air blow gun over the last year or so to get mine super clean. I lay cardboard under and go at it with the GEL engine degreaser, followed up with rags, then purple power, then rags, then compressed air. If you have really powerful air compressor you can blow 'chunks' of the grim right off. Use eye protection. Its nice having it nice underneath. The same looking cracks in the aluminum are also on my inspection cover and my t-case so I'm not thinking its a huge deal, however, a buddy of mine wouldn't let the conversation go last time he was underneath my truck...
 
Took me about 6-7 degreaser cleanings w/compressed air blow gun over the last year or so to get mine super clean. I lay cardboard under and go at it with the GEL engine degreaser, followed up with rags, then purple power, then rags, then compressed air. If you have really powerful air compressor you can blow 'chunks' of the grim right off. Use eye protection. Its nice having it nice underneath. The same looking cracks in the aluminum are also on my inspection cover and my t-case so I'm not thinking its a huge deal, however, a buddy of mine wouldn't let the conversation go last time he was underneath my truck...

That is a lot of cleaning! :thumbsup:

Either you have too much time on your hands or really love your truck! ):h
 
Between the wifey and my 2 1/2 year old daughter it just seems, how can I put it.... Peaceful under there! :)

And the truck thing too :)

:rofl:
Aint you telling the truth ....:iagree:
Wait till she's 3 1/2 and won't leave you alone with questions about everything you are doing 10x. Or better yet like mine did yesterday, I finished filling a planter I built with fresh topsoil and he proceeded to cover it with grass seed when I wasn't looking.
 
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