• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

db2 timing advance

bigchevy89

New Member
Messages
114
Reaction score
0
Location
Avon Park Fl.
Can any body tell me how you would check the timing on the mech pump?
I would like to advance the timing in my 93 3500.
 
To check the actual timing, you need a timing meter. Something like a Snap On Lumy Mag. You can find them on eBay from time to time. Or you can listen to the rattle at idle and adjust from there. I find a combination of both works best for me. I usually get a baseline with the Lumy Mag and listen to the rattle. Then set where it sounds right and double check the actual advance with the Lumy Mag. Its a little science, a little black art and a little guessing. A real quick and dirty way to see what 3 degrees more advance would be is to unplug the cold start and wire a switch into the cab. When you apply +12 Volts to the cold start, it advances 3 degrees. I wouldn't run it this way, only to test. Kind of gives you a idea of the change in rattle sound as well.
 
thanks. the guy next door to me works at a diesel shop iam going to see if they have a meter. maybe he can hook me up. what would you think would be a good offset?
 
Hard to say. The timing tag is slotted, so no way to know if its reading TDC or not unless you set it when the engine was apart. Best is to see what you have and listen to the rattle. A lot of shops don't use meters, they just set it by ear. And as you will see, the timing meter is not exactly rock steady. These are not like the DS4 pumps where you can get actual hard numbers that are pretty reliable. As I said, its part black art, part science. You have to change it, see how it works and monitor your Pyrometer and boost gauge. If it sounds like its rattling too much at idle, you went too far. Its not easy to do this either. The bolts holding the pump are almost inaccessible. You really want the Kent Moore wrench and even then its not easy. Plan on wasting a good morning, maybe the better part of the day if you change it several times.
 
When i set my 6.2s timing all i did was bump the IP mark a hair to the driver's side.

Like so.

attachment.php


That's on the old IP, but the timing marks are pretty much the same on the new one.
 

Attachments

  • timing marks.jpg
    timing marks.jpg
    35.5 KB · Views: 107
yeah, as I was driving home, i realized I had a brain fart.
Thanks for clarifying

What distance is that between the marks 1/16 of an inch or less? Hard to tell in the pic.

More or less yes. I just moved it so the IP line is just barely ahead of the timing cover line.
 
did you notice any power improvment?

Hard to say really. When i installed my reman DB2 i didn't drive it with the IP and case marks lined up perfectly. I set the timing before i ever started the engine.
 
I have a Snap-on timing meter and could be persuaded :cheers2: for a little bit of consideration :biggrin: to set DB2 timing, if you are in my neck O the woods. I have the adapter for the 6.2 and Olds 350 :)
 
Back
Top