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CV Joint Replace

btfarm

btfarm

America First!
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Seems I have a LF CV joint giving up the fight. What does it take to replace one? Should I just take it to somebody? Approximate $?
 
2 hour job tops for both. Bolt up flanges inner and outer. No need to remove the tires even.

GM parts aren't cheap of course.
 
Mine took removing the sway bar end links, I just did new boots.

I already have the front end apart for new steering linkage.
Sent from: Source Unknown
 
It's not a hard job.

Undo the axle nuts using a jack handle as an extension over a breaker bar.

Jack up the front end and block each side on stands

Undo the 6 bolts at the front differential.

Drop the inside portion of axle and push towards front of truck to drop through the space between lower A arm and frame cross member. Remove by tappingbthe axle out of the bearing hub and pulling it towards the center of truck. Reverse to install. Torque inside 6 bolts to 50 lbs, axle nuts to 180 lbs, use the jack handle extension and a good tug will get it there.

Oops, sorry this is for the 6.5 with 4wd

Rockauto has nice new axles for about $80, GM and AC Delco are much more. I've used reman axles from Dorman without a problem, but would go with new next time as there's no core charge and the boots were better. Google search for Rockauto discount code good for 5% off.
 
The good news is I can change one in less than 30 min. 1st one took about 45. Also good news is that a guy I know from seeing his truck around and knowing he is buds with local pullers just happened to have a 100k mile spare set he insisted I should take. Bad news is it was not the LH and it was only partly the RH. Most of the annoying sound is still there. I believe it's a warped RF rotor. This started after the new tires went on and the best way I know of to warp a rotor is to unevenly torque the lugs with an impact and put the rotor through a heat cycle. New rotor from RA on order and will have it mid week.
 
I have yet to have one go on my truck. The boots are starting to crack, but hey whats not to expect after 256K and 19 years.

Still have the old one as a spare if its still good? I hate replacing the rotors on my truck, its a pain.
 
DieselSlug said:
I have yet to have one go on my truck. The boots are starting to crack, but hey whats not to expect after 256K and 19 years.

Still have the old one as a spare if its still good? I hate replacing the rotors on my truck, its a pain.
Click to expand...

Yours are held on w/ rust though lol. My cv's are in great shape and get abused hauling hay in fields, mesquite stumps just rip the boots on occasion.

Sent from: Source Unknown
 
I try to never throw away good used parts. You'll NEVER need new ones then (unless you throw the spare away) ;)
 
tanman_2006 said:
Yours are held on w/ rust though lol. My cv's are in great shape and get abused hauling hay in fields, mesquite stumps just rip the boots on occasion.

Sent from: Source Unknown
Click to expand...

Haha, ain't that the truth. Natural fusion, holds as good as a weld!
I can't believe what my engine looks like now after 4 winters, block inst even CAT yellow anymore!! Im going to get some chassis saver this summer and plaster the thing.
 
Had bad boots on my OE axles, all of 'em. Expected to see all sorts of trash but there was enough grease left to preserve them. Meticulously disassembled and cleaned the parts, making sure everything was back where it came from, new boots and redline synthetic CV grease. So far so good at a quarter million miles.
 
With the 'minimal' improvement on the RF, I have a feeling that these things have to get pretty bad before they are actually 'bad'. I should have the new rotor tomorrow but may wait 'til the weekend when it isn't a freakin' steambath to work in.
 
3500GMC said:
Had bad boots on my OE axles, all of 'em. Expected to see all sorts of trash but there was enough grease left to preserve them. Meticulously disassembled and cleaned the parts, making sure everything was back where it came from, new boots and redline synthetic CV grease. So far so good at a quarter million miles.
Click to expand...

How hard is it to replace the boots once you have them off? Reason I ask is that I bought rebuilt CV axles from Cardone and one of them got different boots with less ribs in the belllows and it already has cracks after just 40K miles. The bellows have rounded ribs as opposed to ribs with edges. The other side had more ribs with edges in the bellows and has no cracks.
 
The shaft is splined on both ends. The CV outer and triple roller inner is held in place with cir-clips. Once the actual shaft is free from all parts, slide the boots on about midway, reassemble the splined parts then clamp the boots to the drive cups and shaft. Usually new boots come with clamps.

The CV end is a lil tricky.

I can look up the raybestos boot numbers, they are all 4 the same.
 
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