CV Axle ABS Reluctor Ring

[Big T]

This weekend I'm replacing the CV axle on the passenger side of my 2005 Honda Accord, manual transmission. Job does not look too hard at all. I ordered a new CV Axle by Suretech (Chinese Made) from Rockauto. The part listing stated "without ABS Ring". I assumed that you simply pop the ABS ring off the old axle and install it on the new one, maybe using a torch to heat it up for the install. Am I correct on that.

The reason for the replacement is that I get a wobble on that side during heavy acceleration, particularly at highway speed. Everything points to worn inside CV joint. 128K miles on the car.

 

[Will L.]

Not sure on rings, On our last Honda the rings were a separate piece that could be swapped, but older car. Can you buy ring separate? If so then it's changeable.

I'm sure you did, but gonna ask anyhow- did you swap tire left side to right to make sure it's not there? Normally front wheel drive cv does the clicking in a turn thing, not out of balance.

 

[Big T]

Not sure on rings, On our last Honda the rings were a separate piece that could be swapped, but older car. Can you buy ring separate? If so then it's changeable.

I'm sure you did, but gonna ask anyhow- did you swap tire left side to right to make sure it's not there? Normally front wheel drive cv does the clicking in a turn thing, not out of balance.

The problem persisted after a new set of tires were put on. I took it to the best alignment guy in town and he said inside CV joint with 90% confidence. Said that the direct connect of the manual transmission accentuates the feel, whereas the modern automatic transmissions tend to obscure it.

I researched all over the net and when the outer CV joints go, you hear the clicking during a turn. When the inner goes, you feel it like a wobble or pulse during heavy acceleration. Axle was $48 with shipping. It's less than an hour to install it. Did not understand why they sold the axles without the ABS ring.

 

[trouttrooper]

yup, wobbles/vibrations at highway speed under acceleration is a sign of worn out CV's. Easy road test is if you can make the vibration come and go by accelerating then coasting. Had a few CV's wear out that never clicked, but had the acceleration vibrations.

 

[Big T]

yup, wobbles/vibrations at highway speed under acceleration is a sign of worn out CV's. Easy road test is if you can make the vibration come and go by accelerating then coasting. Had a few CV's wear out that never clicked, but had the acceleration vibrations.

Exactly what you're describing. Vibration only occurs under heavy acceleration, particularly at speeds above 40 mph. Disappears when off the accelerator. Seems pretty much on the passenger side. Figured I'll try replacing that one and see if it cures it. Not sure if I need to do the driver's side, but we'll see.

Most of the comments on the internet suggested new vs reman CV axles. No one had problems with the new CKOs. Honda wants $530 for new CV axles.

 

[trouttrooper]

I'd balk at reman. just me though. just because one side is bad doesn't mean the other is too. front wheel drive cars will see different torque stress for the two sides, one can see more stress then the other. also check motor mounts. it took awhile before i realized i was eating through passenger cv axles because i have a nad motor mount that was letting things slop around too much. plus side is i got pretty good changing it out

 

[Big T]

I'd balk at reman. just me though. just because one side is bad doesn't mean the other is too. front wheel drive cars will see different torque stress for the two sides, one can see more stress then the other. also check motor mounts. it took awhile before i realized i was eating through passenger cv axles because i have a nad motor mount that was letting things slop around too much. plus side is i got pretty good changing it out

I went with a new axle.

My motor mounts are solid. Engine has balance shafts and is very smooth.

 

[Will L.]

<-- that's me.
Totally spaced inner cv issue. I'm so used to outer going bad first and I think about it.

Thanks for the schoolin.

 

[Big T]

Well I changed the CV axle on the driver's side. Took about an hour as expected. The ABS reluctor ring is contained in the bearing hub, which answered my question. The pulse or wobble is reduced, but still there, so I will have to change the driver's side CV axle.

I also changed the front brake pads on my '99 Suburban. This was an interim job and I installed a used set of pads that I had pulled from the '95 wreck. Both inside pads were well worn with the driver's side 1/16" from the metal. These were top of the line Raybestos Advanced Technology pads and I think they lasted about 20K miles. The Raybestos Advanced Technology slotted rotors showed virtually no wear. They're pricey rotors, but IMO well worth it. I am in the middle of acquiring the parts to do the GMT-800 jumbo brake conversion and probably a month or so away from doing that job. Just spreading the purchases out over two months.

While in there working, I noticed the sway bar linkage was MIA on the driver's side. Swore I had just installed new Moog links a couple years ago.

 

[Big T]

OK changed the driver's side CV axle and the pulse or wobble is completely gone. $96 and two hours time to cure that.

With the repairs and maintenance cleared on the Mercedes and Honda, next is the GMT-800 brakes on the Suburban. Think I will do lower A-Arm bushings at the same time. Once that project is done, transfer case gets the pump rub fix and I'll install Energy Suspension Engine and Transmission mounts at the same time. Then new steering box and longer term, GMT-800 rear axle with disc brakes.

 

[trouttrooper]

it never ends........

 

[Big T]

it never ends........

No kidding. Add 3 boats, 2 of them diesels, 1 four stroke outboard, and it really never ends.