Cranks no Start check list uploaded

[DJLilBA5T8RD]

: Explain your problem in concise language ________________blew bleeder screw and overheated temp gun hit (386 f __) Now Cranks but won't fire after new head gaskets. sat for 2 years after that and now it sounds like it is just about to fire then nothing_________

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: ____2000__
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) ____Chevy g3500 express 1ton dually school bus 139" incomplete cutaway chasse mid bus__
- Automatic or Standard ___AT_______
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) _____289300 miles____
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) _____PMD #9 resistor ______
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? ______Vin F Center turbo________
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) ___59f_______
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) ______#2Diesel___
- What fuel additives are you using? _____Lucas fuel stabilizer ______
- Where are you located? ____Nevada_________

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter ___new______
- Fuel filter ____looks good_____
- CDR Valve? ________looks good _
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at ____2 weeks _________
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at ___today________
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at ___full just replaced new__________
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): _____clean and tight _________
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? ___0______ What type? _______ac delco______
- Injectors - last changed at ___idk____________


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? _driving in desert heat _____________
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? _______no it smoked like crazy found out that exhaust valve had quater of valve bust off. And needed new head gaskets.
_____
- Has this problem ever happened before? __no_____________________
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. _________no fuel at injectors but at rail and return lines _____
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) Y____ And? _____i keep getting P1656_

[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT] Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? _____NO____
1b] Does the engine crank over? Yez________
1c] Are your batteries fully charged.yes
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? ______yes__x
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? ______yes blinks for like 10 to 15sec ___
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? __?_______ For how long? ______?___
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? ______some gray and very light
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? ________yez

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? _yez___________
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? _________yes
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? _______yes____
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? ___no____
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? _____idk____

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) _____side of pump in valley______
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? ____good _____
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. _________
3d] PMD Make: ___________stydine
3e] PMD Age: ________22yrs_____

4] Stalling Issue so 4
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? ____________
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) ______
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? _________
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? _________
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? _________
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ___________
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _________
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___________

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? _______
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? _______
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? __________
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? _________
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? __________

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? ___________
6b] Maximum boost under load? ____________
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? ______________
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? ________________
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? ______________

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? ____________
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? _________
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? ____________
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? ________
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? __________
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? ___________

 

[Will L.]

Ok, first- welcome. Extra points for the school bus challenge.

The pmd is a known frequent problem that the only diagnostic for it is replace with a known good one. The original design is as fuel flows through the ip (injection pump) it cools the electronics, problem is when engine overheats or shuts off- the latent heat then soaks into the pmd damaging it. Experience has taught to remove the pmd from the ip onto a heat sink and get it out of the engine bay to eliminate the heat damage. Most vehicles this becomes back side of the front bumper.

Then, have a spare for testing. In a large fleet I learned to have that spare mounted and a dummy plug in it so the test is simply swap dummy plug and actual harness.
The pmd failure is so common it has become test #1 “swap pmd”.

On the front of the ip is a 1/4” diameter 6” long fuel hose that is in an upside down U shape - it is the return line. Replace that with a clear line so you can see when the fuel is flowing, if there is contamination or bubbles. The clear line can be bought at hardware stores but that type has to be replaced about every 4 years, actual clear fuel line is best bought from here: https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1
You have to purchase by the foot, need 6” piece. Clear hose is thicker so the factory clamps don’t work- buy two new screw style hose clamps for it.


These are the two things to do towards diagnosis.
You can remove the fuel line that feeds into the ip and verify flow rate and pressure. Count how long it takes to get one pint of fuel. Measure and report pressure. Long term a permanent mounted pressure sensor at that location is a wise move. If you want to get that done now- ask and we will cover it. Loss of pressure will allow engine to run but ruin the ip quickly.

Beyond that,

you could remove the glow plugs (isolate wires so they don’t ground out) and crank engine while having someone watch to see if fuel is misting out the glowplug holes. It should. If not, then you definitely are not getting fuel to the cylinder.

 

[MrMarty51]

Welcome to thetruckstop DJ

 

[Paveltolz]

DJ, welcome to the truck stop. If you’re getting fuel to the Injection Pump but nothing at the injectors I would definitely concure with Will L and consider the 22 year old PMD toast, especially if it’s still on the injection pump and had been subjected to rinse and repeat Nevada desert heat. Where about’s in NV are you (big state)?

 

[dbrannon79]

Welcome to the forum @DJLilBA5T8RD Glad to have you join.

I'm with Will on this one. get a clear line on the IP return so you can see if there is any air in the fuel system. also check for 12V at the fuel shutoff solenoid (round cylinder on top of the IP) with the key on. crack the line nuts at some of the injectors and see if you get any fuel leakage while cranking. suspecting a failed PMD like Will and Paveltolz is saying. you can get an extension cable along with a new PMD and heat sink to remote mount it away from the engine bay, that will help make them last longer. if you use the relocation kit, it will save you some time and work getting the old one off the side of the pump. just remember there is a resistor inside the connector of the PMD. just swing by the auto parts and pickup a new one and place it into the extension harness and you'll never have to worry about it again.

 

[MrMarty51]

Reason to leave the old PMD in position on the injection pump is because it is mighty difficult to get to the screws with the intake manifold attached.
It is also difficult to get the resistor picked out of the PMD where the harness plugs into it.
If You can get the original resistor plucked from the old PMD that would be great. Then You can look at the number on it, probably between about a 2 and a 5 and then purchase a new resistor with that number stamped on it.
Not a big deal to get another resistor with that exact number, just get a number 5 if the original resistor no. Cant be read.
I sure hope You are still hangine with us after all the good suggestions have been so thoughtfully entered.