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Crank Sprocket LokTited ??

TomMac95

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I'm currently involved replacing my timing 'set' (gears&chainset)....

When removing the old/existing crank sprocket/reluctor i noticed that it had been installed with what appeared to be Loktite Stud/Bearing mount. {the sprocket required a puller to remove}. There was loktite residue in the 'cove' left by the bevel in the sprocket, and on the top/rear side of the crank (where the chain tension 'lifted' the sprocket , when all was 'new').

Anybody else notice this?
Could this be factory?
Might it be an indication that my rig has a 'crate engine' that was a 'late edition' ?
{i also noticed that the crank sprocket had some black paint (overspray) on one side}

It occurred to me that a remanufactured crate engine might be expected to spend some time Without a HB up against the sprocket ...
thanks , T m.
I will post this query elsewhere , as well.
 
I'm currently involved replacing my timing 'set' (gears&chainset)....

When removing the old/existing crank sprocket/reluctor i noticed that it had been installed with what appeared to be Loktite Stud/Bearing mount. {the sprocket required a puller to remove}. There was loktite residue in the 'cove' left by the bevel in the sprocket, and on the top/rear side of the crank (where the chain tension 'lifted' the sprocket , when all was 'new').

Anybody else notice this?
Could this be factory?
Might it be an indication that my rig has a 'crate engine' that was a 'late edition' ?
{i also noticed that the crank sprocket had some black paint (overspray) on one side}

It occurred to me that a remanufactured crate engine might be expected to spend some time Without a HB up against the sprocket ...
thanks , T m.
I will post this query elsewhere , as well.



How many miles on the engine, I have witnessed guys use red loctite on the crank gear to secure the gear to the crankshaft, This is overkill but have done it myself when it seemed the crank gear felt a little loose on the shaft.

I have repaired worn crank shaft ends. And installed new harmonic balancers with loctite shaft repair (green). This comes off with a puller and makes the harmonic balancer and the crank shaft like one piece. This repair is used in NASA and other industrial places, to repair expensive equipment that can not be repaired any other way. IT works.

I would suggest replacing the gear and reluctor then installing them with the loctite shaft repair just to make sure things stay safe. It doesn't hurt anything to be safe and you will never have a loose harmonic balancer. The bolt on the harmonic balancer needs to be tourqed. Have to use a good tourque wrench and a breaker bar with a cheater bar I did. :D
 
Thanks , Slim Shady.
I'd never heard of the technique .
I think the stuff was green ....
-T m
 
Clean the area up well and get all the green stuff off.

Slide the lower sprocket back onto the crank, now check to see that it does not wiggle or is too sloppy.

These gears should be a light tap fit (with plastic hammer) as it slides onto the crank snout.

Been into a buttload of 6.2/6.5's and never seen one with loctite on the gear,

Always use Blue loctite on the cam bolt as well as the retainer plate bolts.

I use blue loctite on the crank bolt too.

Clean well, a little blue loctite and burp the impact gun a couple times after the bolt is snug and good to go.

The bolts that hold the IP drive gear up top to the IP need blue also.

Any of these fall out and its game over and major damage.


Normally I just replace the chain on these and not the sprockets. Never seen a set of sprockets that had any wear.


MGW
 
My sprocket was tighter than all get out. I also need a puller to remove it, and it needed some assurance going back on, so i didnt use anything. ALthough mine didint look like it had any type of locker on it.... I also just replaced the chain and not the sprockets.
 
Thanks , Slim Shady.
I'd never heard of the technique .
I think the stuff was green ....
-T m


If it had green on it then the shaft or the gear may be damaged. If you clean the shaft and gear real good with brake clean then put a lite coat of green loctite shaft repair on the gear and the shaft and press them down against the crank shoulder until the loctite sets, takes minutes not hours. That way the gear and shaft are true against the crank shaft machined surface. Then put some on the harmonic balancer inside and run the harmonic balancer bolt up tight with an impact then tourque it.

This will make a complete and permanent repair, the gear, harmonic balancer and crank shaft end will be as one piece. The chance of this repair failing is almost zero.

I repaired a generator drive flange this way on a generator and it has been in service for almost 5 years now and no failure, it takes 68 horse power to run the generator. IT works.
 
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