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Cooling heads upgrade.

matuva

matuva

Tropical 6.5er
Messages
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Location
New Caledonia. An island in south west pacific, cl
Howdy all,
please have a look at ebay item # 230492129919, and tell me what you think of this setup.

I know a guy who opened the rear ports of his heads and join the 2 heads with a hose.

He is now wondering if there's not a better way of forcing cooling flow in he heads and is thinking about connecting these rear ports to the heater hose.

What do you think of this project ?
 
That is along the lines of Heaths bypass cooling mod he had available, TD has it on his truck.

If I'm not mistaken it took coolant from the back of the head though and recirculated it. Not send coolant there as he states.
 
From description given to me by Bill when I bought mine, 6.5 head flow is different either side at different rpms left head vs. right, egro balance flow chamber that equalizes the pressure through out cooling system.

What I see in the ebay add causes some pause, as is saqys all sales final and it may fit your engine or IMO it may work. I see coming out of the rear of the head a hard 90 into a nipple that acts as an orifice into hose then into the stat crossover.

Bill instrumented the engine to specify his balance flow system fitting requirements, about 3 mos after having mine installed he called me to inform me that on dual stat systems with new water pump, there would have to be an additional metering orifice added to the WP bypass hose.

Im not saying it doesn't work/can't work but have a healthy skepticism, heath balance flow has been supplanted by the Balanced cooling system, which is what I have on my Burb and works very well and what I'd put the money to again.
 
A single stat with a high flow pump and 20" 9 blade or better fan with a new or low temp clutch will do the job as long as the condenser, oil cooler and radiator are new or removed and cleaned (externally) out. Towing flat out this setup did work with a single 180 T-stat to keep me at or below 210.

Want perfect go with the balanced flow thread on pump fan and clutch described in the 'thanks Heath' thread.
 
It does look similar to TD's but the guy is giving away how he did it. Just on that pic alone I could build that out of 40$ worth fittings and hoses. It might actually work though.
 
In order to make that call would need a diagram of how the water flows. Some may struggle just to understand which way water is flowing

That crossover wouldnt actually fit 94+ trucks I dont think, wouldnt fit right for accessories and belt, that is the 6.2 crossover
 
Yeah on TD's truck Heath welded a nipple into the therm housing and used a small chamber to tie the to hoses coming from the rear into one. It would be very easy to replicate as long as you have access to a Tig welder.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Yeah on TD's truck Heath welded a nipple into the therm housing and used a small chamber to tie the to hoses coming from the rear into one. It would be very easy to replicate as long as you have access to a Tig welder.
Click to expand...

Yes but what is the proof that doing this would even make sense? I would need to see how the water flows to begin with and how the change affects it. It was obviously an abandoned practice, perhaps because it doesnt make sense.
 
I'm interested in a few other things I see going on here:

headcooling.jpg


That 3/8 pvc coated line for one....turbo feed maybe?

The boost fitting is also in a pretty "sano" position...
 
I thought Heath's added water to rear of head from a higher pressure port added to the water pump??? This appears to remove water from rear of head. IF one side is orificed to provide some restriction more than other it might balance some but if not its just going to be an easier path for water to flow. The ideas is it might allow water to more easily flow past the rear cylinder heads and thus increase flow over the problem area but at the expense of less flow through other head areas somewhat. Is pre thermostat significantly less pressure than rear of head and if you tie the 2 together will pressure equalize moreso and reduce the beneficial pressure drop for other head areas?

What do you think of this ....

But is it really the flow past through the rear of the head ???? Could it be that the opening in the gasket and where most of the water comes from to circulate in the head BUT maybe more that its too laminar or smooth but fast without enough turbulation around the 7 8 hot spots. And it doesn't remove as much heat. The rest of the head slows flow since the flow "spreads out" slows and allows it to absorb heat.

Laminar flow the more speed of flow might not always remove more heat if the boundary area of contact with surface and body of flow is realitively thin. If the water right next to surfaces is stationary and inner flow is moving.

BUT when flow is turbulent I will argue most all the time the more flow the better because the entire flow mixes. The surface contact vs inner flow boundary area or region is more or less non exsistant its all the same. And idea is this mod allows the flow to increase enough to help turbulate it around 7/8.

Does it work don't know I agree with Buddy I'd need to know the flow and or several different temp probe points data before and after mod to argue if its an improvement.
 
Last edited:
FWIW, I saw the Heath "Balance Flow" system advertised on some Hummer site....I think Heath abandon/sold the rights to the system to the Humvee world....again, just speculation, but I am sure I saw advertised on some other site. maybe Bill could explain what happened and why he doesn't offer it anymore.

2 Cents
 
Found it, here you go.....

http://www.teakatoys.com/ProductDet...455&ProductCode=HEA-HDP1551&historysingle=YES

This is the general description that is provided by Teaka Toys, the new owner, I'm assuming....

"The Balance-Flow upgrade is designed to correct a fundamental flaw in the 6.5 engine's cooling system circulation. These engines suffer a relatively stagnant coolant flow in the rear portions of the cylinder block and heads. This poor flow causes excessive temperatures in the two rear-most cylinders (7 & 8) and imposes an undue thermal stress in the block casting, which contributes to early block failure. The cylinder heads, too suffer localized hot spots which leads to cracking and failure.

The Balance-Flow system re-directs coolant to properly serve the cooling needs of the block and head castings, providing uniform coolant temperatures throughout the engine.

This is a very important upgrade for any H-1 and should not be overlooked in the quest for performance and longevity.

System is complete and ready to install with special fittings that attach to the rear of each cylinder head, as well as the flow-balancing tank, modified front coolant crossover manifold and high-temperature silicone hoses with permanent band type clamps. All components with the exception of the front crossover manifold are fabricated of high grade polished stainless steel. Designed for a lifetime of trouble free service---no shortcuts."
 
Why do they tap into the pressure side heater hose ? I would simply use the rr port or both rear for the heater pressure side hose,some sbc's have the heater outlet there already,and olds v8's also.
 
The flash product looks pretty easy to duplicate. It however, does not have the mysterious balance cylinder and modified crossover that Heath's product does. I guess the coolant from the rear of the heads just follows the "current" of the flow to the heater core and back to the radiator. If I thought there was any proven benefit to this I might be inclined to fabricate one.
 
6.2 turbo said:
Why do they tap into the pressure side heater hose ? I would simply use the rr port or both rear for the heater pressure side hose,some sbc's have the heater outlet there already,and olds v8's also.
Click to expand...

I THINK? the idea is the closer to the water pump discharge the higher the pressure. Realitive to the rear of the head the heater hose going to the heater "should be" lower pressure. The bypass hose should allow a straight shot to the lower pressure than the route through the head. The trick would be to size the hose not to take too much away from head flow.
 
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