I just started developing a coolant leak my upper rad hose was leaking replaced it with a new one just got done work noticed two puddles under the front bumper on the ground moved the truck it was coolant. I wonder if the lower rad hose is stretched out and leaking as it cools down. I never had a leak until recently. Only other thing is a bad rad and I hope it's not. What's the best way to drain the coolant and save it on this rad does the drain have a nipple to put a hose on?
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Coolant leak by rad
- Thread starter bdemutis
- Start date
They have a drain, but GM decided it would be good to just drain on the core support?? I drill a hole through it so a hose can be attached for clean draining or if I want to save the coolant.
Drill a hole in what the rad support?
Yes, dont drill holes in the rad.
Lol I won't I'm not that dumb I think. So drill a hole in the rad support then put a hose in the hole. I might just use a funnel and a 5 gallon buckets and a hose.
I wouldn't touch the drain on a antique radiator unless you want to hear a crispy "SNAP" followed by cussing. GM intended for you to drain the coolant from the lower radiator hose. Check for the plastic tank on the hot side cracking. Look through the fan for leaks. Look at the tank header to core for leaks. A pressure tester would help locate leaks faster.
Drill or cut a hole in the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. After all your replacing it...
Drill or cut a hole in the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. After all your replacing it...
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Make sure it's not the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. Also, worm drive hose clamps are a good source for letting a leak happen when the engine cools and pressures goes down releasing the swelling of the hoses.
When your truck demands attention frequently, that just means it likes your companionship.
When your truck demands attention frequently, that just means it likes your companionship.
On driver side is the drain. You can drill a hole large enough for the hose in core support. Attach 6-8" hose to nipple (<<< Haha I said nipple!!) on rad with clamp. Then draining into a bucket will be easy.
I've never had a problem snapping one off.
NVW
Well-Known Member
Pop your skid plate off and make sure it's not the weep hole as Will mentioned.
I recently replaced the WP, lower hose and rad on a 92 gasser, hose was ok but both the rad and WP were bad.
I recently replaced the WP, lower hose and rad on a 92 gasser, hose was ok but both the rad and WP were bad.
Lol yea the worm clamp is leaking on the new hose I just put on and the lower hose I think I'm just going to replace the water pump when I got it apart so know is a good time.
Any one have a wright up on the water pump I got everything out starting taking bolts out now I'm hung up because of the vacuum pump and powersteering brackets can't figure it out because I can't remove the smog pump the bolts are stripped on the back. -_-
Use a power steering pulley puller on the vac pump. Any FLAP store will have the tool. Water pumps are a suck job on these. Have to remove the timing cover plate (the out side one. Not the whole cover!!) there are bolts that come in from behind it is why.
Edit: I dont think vac pump needs to come off, can't remember now? Is yours leaking? Might as well do the 2000 style upgrade water pump if changing it.
Edit: I dont think vac pump needs to come off, can't remember now? Is yours leaking? Might as well do the 2000 style upgrade water pump if changing it.
The vacuum pump bracket is in the way there is a stud on the water pump that the vacuum bracket is mounted. As for pulling the pulleys off i figured the way to do it without but we just got snow and yesterday I took the truck apart in my driveway when I should of took it to my gfs dad's pole barn.
Got everything put back together today me new lower rad hose is leaking damn band clamps and Napa tried telling me they don't sell stock style clamps I call bs I seen them online when I looked up my truck to pick up in store I guess I'll double my band clamps up add another one back to back lol.
By stock you mean the spring clamps? if yes I would rather run a worm gear any day. You could get fancy and use a tee bolt clamp.
I never have a problem. I also put some stuff called AquaLube on all my connections.
I never have a problem. I also put some stuff called AquaLube on all my connections.
For some reason I've been having problems with advanced auto work clamps even if I tighten them to the point it's about to over torque they leak I mean I snug them up to the max I can't figure it out.
Original hose or new? The original may be crusty/cracked and bloated and in need of replacement (like my exwife was).
Brand new hose by gates.