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Codes on '95 Burb

Big T

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Fullerton, CA
Son is on vacation with the '95 Burb and he e-mailed me the following:

Two new codes:
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36 - Injection pulse width error (response time long)
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and
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48 - Air intake temperature sensor circut high (low temp indicated)
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These just came up today.
*
Colby
 
First, have him clear them and see if they come back. Codes are sort of strange - they aren't as precise as people think. One code can cause a 'cascade' where other codes show up. Bad grounds can do the same thing.

Is he using extra lube in every tank while he's on vacation? When mine popped a 36, I just upped the SAE30 I was pouring in the fuel and it never came back... I was pouring a litre of Walmart cheap stuff in every tank with the new ULSD.

If the 48 comes back, look for a loose or disconnected plug (or broken wire) on the IAT sensor; an open circuit will cause that code. So will a bad sensor.

But only if it comes back... Never do much unless the codes persist. That's the mistake the dealers make.. they start changing parts right away.
 
The 36 code has been off and on since the beginning of the year. This spans changing injectors (overdue at 155K) and just a week ago he replaced the optic sensor harness. He's not using any additive in the fuel. I asked him the particulars of when it happened (ie up a grade in high heat?) and am awaiting his response. Could be a bit as they're camping.
 
Have him start pouring a qt of the cheapest walmart oil he can get in every tankful of fuel. If he can get non-additive, non-detergent SAE30, that would be just fine.

For quite a while, I used a mix of PS(grey) and 2-stroke, but then Bill Heath told me he just uses Oil, so I tried it.

My code 36 stayed gone.

Damn thing went away for 3 years... and counting!
 
:iagree:

With ULSD, No lubricity additive = 6.5/6.2 abuse, literally asking for an IP swap

And the regular cheap TCW3 2-stroke or ND SAE30 works better than most higher priced diesel fuel additives. Some of those claimed lubricity additives actually do nothing. For typical fillup of about 28 gallons I generally put a full quart of the SAE30 in, or half quart of 2-stroke.
 
Have him start pouring a qt of the cheapest walmart oil he can get in every tankful of fuel. If he can get non-additive, non-detergent SAE30, that would be just fine.

For quite a while, I used a mix of PS(grey) and 2-stroke, but then Bill Heath told me he just uses Oil, so I tried it.

My code 36 stayed gone.

Damn thing went away for 3 years... and counting!

In addition to the transmission problem (he's try to address) he just e-mailed me with the following codes:

36 - Injection pulse width error (response time long)

87 - High Ratio error

He did put a quart of 30w oil in this tank of fuel. The code 36 persists and the 87 is a new one. Any ideas?
 
What are his tranny problems? I think the 87 - High Ratio Error is tranny related. Is the torque converter slipping?
 
He's on a camping trip celebrating first anniversary with the wife and the dogs. He lost reverse and it won't shift past 2nd gear. I posted here, but it was moved to the 4L80e transmission board. The conclusion was that the reverse band went, so I have him looking for a rebuild in the Bakersfield area. The wife will meet up with him in Bakersfield tomorrow with my '99 Burb, as she's on her way to Sacramento where she is working on some legislation. I'm in Chicago trying to coordinate this rescue via the Internet.
 
My brothers is doing the same thing, wont shift past 2nd (although I think reverse still works). He has a leaking torque converter, and slipping because of it. His tossed the same code (only reason I knew anything about it)
 
Just a thought on the tranny. There are, I think, two solenoids in the bottom of the tranny. If you drop the pan I think they are lookiing right at you. I had one go bad and it wouldn't shift past second gear. Drove it home from work at 50 mph. That was on my 95 6.5 burb.
 
A bad temperature sensor/circuit will cause it to have second gear only. A scanner would be nice. You had one low temp indicator. try shorting the IAT and ECT sensor harnesses with paperclips or something.
 
A bad temperature sensor/circuit will cause it to have second gear only. A scanner would be nice. You had one low temp indicator. try shorting the IAT and ECT sensor harnesses with paperclips or something.

Where are the IAT and ECT located? What does ECT stand for?
 
Engine Coolant Temp sensor is on Tstat xover, and IAT sensor is the thing screwed into the top of the upper intake plenum next to the boost sensor. and you want to short the harness pins together to make the truck think its hot. Unplugged will make it thing its cold.
 
It took some convincing, but he's got it at the Chevy dealer in Bakersfield. He wanted to tow it home with the '99, but the wife and I talked him out of it. If it needs a remanufactured transmission, the dealer offers one with a 3-year 100K mile warranty. That and the fact that the warranty would be good at any dealer vs the shorter warranty at his local favorite shop, settled it. Dealer was impressed with his background work and the GMTDScan Tech. Had never seen that before. Finally, he can keep track of the dealers progress and updates by online connection. It's going to cost some coin, but probably the best way to go.

Update: Son is driving the '99 over the grapevine and e-mails me: "I need an ATT".
 
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Looks like he still has stock PCM, thats a big changer there. Would recommend that before or with a turbo upgrade.

He tried shorting out the IAT and ECT plugs, but was not able to get it out of second.

Yep, he's on stock programming. I plan to do some flyfishing with the wife up in Idaho during July. Might have to schedule a visit with Walking J to see if he can make a combo deal on an ATT plus Kojo tune for the '95.:smile5:
 
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