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Code 13?

6.5TD Burb

6.5TD Burb

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Location
Wendell, NC
Saturday I get home from my parents place, about a 25 mile drive and park the 'Burb. Grab a shower and load up to get to a friends house; maybe half hour to 45 minutes after I park. All it does it crank and crank and crank, no hit, not even any smoke out of the tailpipe. Let it sit and tried to start it Sunday night to no avail. Today I pulled the FSS, turned on the ignition switch and the plunger retracted; no problems there. Pulled the full line off my fuel pressure regulator (to the injection pump) to check and make sure there was no fuel blockage; good pressure and volume there. Pulled the fuel line off #1 cylinder and cranked it over...no fuel. What gives? Bad ECM perhaps?
 
It's possible you had a bad connection and it corrected itself when the fsos was pulled. I have had a bad contact at the fsos fuse before.
 
I'm grabbing a PMD from work today and see if that works. Out of morbid curiosity to see what would happen I also unplugged the crank sensor (not at the same time mind you) to see if it would start and that didn't do anything either.

It's possible you had a bad connection and it corrected itself when the fsos was pulled. I have had a bad contact at the fsos fuse before.
Click to expand...

That's what I was hoping but I pulled the fuel line off the injector after I checked the FSOS.

Edit: Context all out of order
 
Last edited:
I see the subject title is Code 13 and that should be a engine shutoff solenoid circuit fault. I know the solenoid is on the pump and you should be able to get to it with the upper plenum off. My memory is a little off as I have not changed one in a long time. Just because the Solenoid went click does not rule out a physical problem with the solenoid. I believe you can remove it and plug it back in and have someone cycle the key to see if it actually does work. Hope this helps.
 
Refer to post #1. I pulled the solenoid out placed it where I could see it from the drivers seat, hopped in and turned the key. I physically saw the plunger retract.

Plugged in the new PMD, nothing. Pulled the battery cables to reset the computer and still nothing. Pulled the line off cylinder number 1 again just to make sure and sure enough, bone dry.
 
Apparently it was a fuse..kind of. I pulled every fuse in the fuse block and every one checked fine, twice. Put a new ECM in it since everything checked fine according to the diagrams I got and still nothing. After my second post it quit retracting for some reason but still had power up to the solenoid and the solenoid itself checked out fine. Power through the ECM, power to the solenoid, the solenoid itself checked good (wires to the solenoid, then connected to the battery). Looked at a few more diagrams a little closer and still everything checked out. Removed the fuel solenoid fuse again (it looked like it got hot at one point in time but couldn't tell you how long ago) and put it back in, pressed firm on it and voila! Fuel solenoid retracts with the key as it should.
 
There is some oxidation with the fuse contact.

Happened to me, good thing it was only the horn fuse.

Next time, check the ECM fuse also.
Not sure if a 94 have them but I suspect they do.
 
Ya know, all of you that have humidity frequently ought to consider putting nolox on your fuses. Just pull, dip,and reinstall one at a time. Now that I'm thinking about it, they are dissimilar metals. It wouldn't hurt everyone to do it.

Great 1 more item on the list...
 
Culprit kind of found. Remember the melted fuse i mentioned? Did it again, this time I found it, it was almost too hot to touch. Any ideas? I'm thinking somewhere in the circuit a power wire is grounding out?
 
My fsos fuse has to be modified to work, a new fuse won't make contact. The fuse block must have a lot of slop in that fuse terminal. I put a twist on the spades.
 
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