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Clutch not working on dually

Weasel

Weasel

Member
Messages
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7
Location
North Idaho
There has been times when I push in the clutch peddle it would not disengage the clutch. A few pumps of the peddle would get back to normal (as I know it). I went to the bank and backed into the parking spot and to stop I had to turn off the engine. After about 20 minutes it did work and off to Costco I went. In the gas line it did it again. Had to drive home without a clutch.

On a 1993 dually 3500, what could be the problem. Most of my gear head buddies say the the clutch is shot, may have dual force flywheel is the problem?? Mileage is 112,000 yet not hard miles. I would think that a clutch taking a poop would not be intermittent over a year or so.
Right now if I start the truck, depress the peddle to the floor I get a squeal noise. You can't put
it into gear.

Do any of you ever had the same problem? Do you think it could be the master / slave cylinder?
Thank you for all advise.
 
A slave and master can recover from pumping but probably wouldn't squeal just let pressure plate engage clutch. It might squeal if you were rubbing and built up some heat holding it with brake.

If the pedal didn't feel hard like something was binding you might can change them both and see what happens. At the age they probably are if you replace one the other may go.
 
You could crawl underneath and see if you are getting full stroke on slave. Engine doesn't have to be running.

If slave is stroking full length then may be something else rubbing and not disengaging and it just mimics a hydraulic failure. And if you pump it finds a better disengagement.
 
bellhousing covers the slave, yet there is a small round threaded cover at the slave which might be able to see it work.
 
The release bearing probably would only make noise. I have had a release bearing make a squeal but then quieted with some run time and was fine for a good long time. I have never had one completely fail in anything. They are usally well worn and feel dry and I change them while I am there.

I was pretty sure you had an external slave and fork system. The concentric slaves started in I thought mid 90's 96 I think.

I don't know but thought the DMF would make rattling noise on shut down when they were going bad. Single mass flywheel the clutch disc center sometimes comes apart and will catch on the flywheel bolts with a harsh clunk or not disengage all.

I haven't had a clutch disc wear out in my Chevy but others I have heard usually slip or make noise when worn down not a disengagement issue.

Not sure of all the different ways a pressure plate fails the springs and or release fingers get unbalanced and it drags or it slips.

The pilot bearing can fail and allows more input shaft wobble causing rubbing and heat. The pilot bearing failing will stress input bearing on transmission and even more movement on input shaft to allow things to rub and increase stress on other parts. I would think these would cause more noise with clutch pedal on floor.

The Fork and ball can wear and that throws off geometry and funky problems with disengagement/engagement, hard pedal, and stress on hydraulics.

So lots of things wear over time slowly but nothing recovers except the hydraulics with pumps. 112,000 miles is not a lot of miles to wear out hard parts but age makes seals of hydraulics suspect. If pedal feels ok and pumps corrected it my guess is master is suspect. I haven't had one wear out so slowly though. And might be something of the above finally killed the hydraulics but makes sense to start there unless there are other indicators.
 
112,000 miles original or just on this clutch set? That could make a big difference on ideas. The input bearing on transmission and ball and fork are often overlooked on 1st clutch set replacement job but are bigger contributors over time.
 
One of the symptoms of pilot bearing getting dry,sticky,etc is hard to disengage or shift as it trys to keep the input shaft of the tranny spinning the same as crank speed.
 
I can see that at first on a needle bearing pilot if needles gual to input snout but from what I have seen they either disintegrate and tear up the cup lip and never find the needles. The bronze bushing just typically wears out and input moves around then stressing the input bearing. The extra movement of the input shaft allows the disc to go slightly eccentric and starts to build excessive heat and slip and just snowballs wear. At first the clutch disc edge might be catching the flywheel funny outside its normal wear pattern if you were going slow. My truck the original owner said an input bearing was blamed on taking out the clutch.

Last time mine built up some movement going down interstate it took out the input bearing then just went bad eccentric and snowballed into a smoking mess.
 
hence the words dry, sticky,etc. once it wears past that you are correct. I've had a dry bushing do the same, probably depends on how well the driver pays attention or maybe is the type that there wasn't any symptoms and it just quit working. LOL
 
HAs the throw out bearing been greased? My throw out bearing finally went bad around 400 -700,000 miles on the old 89. It bound up tight and would not allow the slave cylinder to move. You could be somewhere in between.
 
One fellow told me that the round cap at the slave was to grease the arm and or the throw out bearing??
If so I have never removed the cover and greased the area. Some times I only use the truck to move my
32' travel trailer 72 miles one way for the summer and bring it home. The truck doesn't get used much.
I have an old 4runner to use.

I believe I could take off the slave and see of it works with someone pushing the peddle.

If I have to replace the clutch, use a solid flywheel? Not a duel type. And what maker is a good clutch?
Thanks for all the reply's and advise. Its always helpful

Have a good summer
 
How does one know if the dual mass flywheel is bad??? Is it best to go with the solid FW?
Did some looking at the LuK brand kits. Are they a good product?

Thanks again
 
LuK is ok its at least OEM quality I don't know if others are better or worse. I feel its mainly in overall parts match and making sure the pilot bearing is installed correctly depth wise (and filled with grease if needle bearing style). Its up to you if you want to replace the fork and ball or input bearing.

The DMF is probably not bad if its not making noise on shut down but I don't think you can resurface or Blanchard grind them. Might run into launch chatter if just replacing the pressure plate and disc??? Or then new components might stress an older DMF. Not sure if OE DMF will outlast a second clutch???? I try to do it all while I am there.. I thought DMF had to be rebuilt or new. Hence the switch to a SMF kits.
 
I think I went with AC Delco, on the 94. I have a thread someplace asking about what clutch to order. Might be some good info there.

Might be in the 6.5 section or it might have been moved. I suck at searching or I would find it and post a link
 
I assume you are greasing the fork pivot ball? fitting is tucked up high.

That will not be the cause of your issue though, the pumping is likely a bad master or slave bypassing fluid around the piston.

Slave is serviceable without pulling transmission, but everything else requires removal.

The noise sounds like it could be a bearing trying to seize, either pilot or release bearing.
 
Amazon has the whole pkg by LUK @ $250. Free delivery. That is SMF, disc, pressure plate, TOB, and bushing.
Part # 07-202
For as much as I drive the truck it would be good to replace the whole enchilada, hell I might be dead next time it goes out!
Thanking you all for the advise / help.
 
Replaced the clutch. The release bearing was nothing but scraps of metal and plastic. The disc was OK, but the center splines were almost gone. That was due to the df flywheel. replaced the flywheel with solid model and everything is working super.
Don't know how it worked at all when it was so messed up
Thanks to all for advise.
 
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