pacificdrumma
Well-Known Member
Been a little while since I last posted on here. Here's what has changed since I was last on here.
I picked up a Hornblasters.com PA/Siren setup running 100w of power. Its a knockoff of a Federal Signal Corp PA300 (which I have as well) and runs through a 100w speaker horn which I mounted in my bumper. It has a public address as well as 5-6 very realistic siren tones. Its pretty loud. Gotta use it carefully, but its definitely fun to have.
A friend of mine graduated from a local tech high school this past June, he is a welder and fabricator. He drives a 97 F350 7.3 with chrome miters, 6 position tuner, intake, and built auto tranny. He built me a 6" miter from scratch, and it looks and sounds awesome. A friend of mine helped me with mounting and securing it, we wound up using a nitrous bottle holder (he had a spare, he and his dad race their 1200hp jeep on dirt drags) and boy is it tight. It is all rubber shock-mounted so it doesn't vibrate, rattle or anything like that. It sounds mean.
The same friend who helped me with mounting the stack also helped me with high idle switches. My truck is OBDII so it was terminals 6 and 7 on the top row of the middle plug. 1070, 1360, and 1600rpm. At this time of year, they dont do much, but come winter they will definitely be helpful. Whole install took like 20 mins and they work great.
One issue I have always had with running a stack or stacks is that you have to move the tool box forward to give the stacks clearance. The tool box that came with my truck is HUGE. I have a 6.5' bed with that bock in. Factor in the 8-10" needed to clear the stack with the box lid open, and not only do I have a tiny bed, but I have stupid looking gap between the cab and box. In an effort to solve that problem, I picked up a gullwing style box that opens from the side. Slightly smaller box meant I could try to keep some of my bed space. Problem solved? Nope. So I got rid of both boxes and picked up a flush mount box that sits inside the bed. Its the nicest box Ive ever had. Its a Kobalt box that has working locks and shock absorbers to keep the lid open. I sure cant complain for $75.
I have been wanting to run on board air for awhile, and in the last week or so I have been acquiring the materials to finally do that. I traded some a-pillar spot lights for a K5 blazer for a 12v air compressor, and my FSC PA300 for a Grover air horn off a Mack truck. Last night, I picked up a 10gal air tank from a standalone compressor. The 10gal might wind up being too big, but we will see. All I need now is to plumb everything in and wire it up and the air, and most importantly the horn, will be good to go.
Also, I changed my fuel filter. I hadnt changed it since about last October, and it was time. The old filter was very black and you could tell it was not flowing as well as a new one would. Since installing the new one, I notice the truck is a bit peppier and moves a little better. Not like +10hp or anything, but it feels better.
Hopefully I will be doing some exhaust work soon and then saving up for some go-fast parts
I picked up a Hornblasters.com PA/Siren setup running 100w of power. Its a knockoff of a Federal Signal Corp PA300 (which I have as well) and runs through a 100w speaker horn which I mounted in my bumper. It has a public address as well as 5-6 very realistic siren tones. Its pretty loud. Gotta use it carefully, but its definitely fun to have.
A friend of mine graduated from a local tech high school this past June, he is a welder and fabricator. He drives a 97 F350 7.3 with chrome miters, 6 position tuner, intake, and built auto tranny. He built me a 6" miter from scratch, and it looks and sounds awesome. A friend of mine helped me with mounting and securing it, we wound up using a nitrous bottle holder (he had a spare, he and his dad race their 1200hp jeep on dirt drags) and boy is it tight. It is all rubber shock-mounted so it doesn't vibrate, rattle or anything like that. It sounds mean.
The same friend who helped me with mounting the stack also helped me with high idle switches. My truck is OBDII so it was terminals 6 and 7 on the top row of the middle plug. 1070, 1360, and 1600rpm. At this time of year, they dont do much, but come winter they will definitely be helpful. Whole install took like 20 mins and they work great.
One issue I have always had with running a stack or stacks is that you have to move the tool box forward to give the stacks clearance. The tool box that came with my truck is HUGE. I have a 6.5' bed with that bock in. Factor in the 8-10" needed to clear the stack with the box lid open, and not only do I have a tiny bed, but I have stupid looking gap between the cab and box. In an effort to solve that problem, I picked up a gullwing style box that opens from the side. Slightly smaller box meant I could try to keep some of my bed space. Problem solved? Nope. So I got rid of both boxes and picked up a flush mount box that sits inside the bed. Its the nicest box Ive ever had. Its a Kobalt box that has working locks and shock absorbers to keep the lid open. I sure cant complain for $75.
I have been wanting to run on board air for awhile, and in the last week or so I have been acquiring the materials to finally do that. I traded some a-pillar spot lights for a K5 blazer for a 12v air compressor, and my FSC PA300 for a Grover air horn off a Mack truck. Last night, I picked up a 10gal air tank from a standalone compressor. The 10gal might wind up being too big, but we will see. All I need now is to plumb everything in and wire it up and the air, and most importantly the horn, will be good to go.
Also, I changed my fuel filter. I hadnt changed it since about last October, and it was time. The old filter was very black and you could tell it was not flowing as well as a new one would. Since installing the new one, I notice the truck is a bit peppier and moves a little better. Not like +10hp or anything, but it feels better.
Hopefully I will be doing some exhaust work soon and then saving up for some go-fast parts
