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CDR

toddlnrd

toddlnrd

My first diesel!
Messages
209
Reaction score
16
Location
Garner, NC
Did someone once post a thread on how to "recondition" the CDR valve? Seems like I remember that, but I searched and could not find.

I am getting some blow-by to the turbo. I will be taking a long trip soon and want to correct the problem before I go.

Should I just get off my cheap butt and buy a new one?

Thanks,
Todd
 
I dunno... I imagine they're for the same function, but there are different manufacturers... example - Heath's glowplugs are more expensive than SSDiesel's, too. But they're worth it; SSD sells crap GPs and doesn't back up the warranty well.

Is this a similar case? I honestly have no idea, really. It might be just that Bill is really expensive - or it might be that there IS a difference.

We always recommend that you support our vendors ('cause they support us!), but $30 difference on a part like that is a bit much.

Good question; maybe somebody else knows.
 
Get one from a napa or something , they are even cheaper than those prices. I wouldnt pay high dollar on an item like that...
 
Problem is, the ones NAPA carries really ARE crap. (At least, the NAPA here). The parts guy kept trying to tell me it was a PCV valve, and trying to give me something that looked different. Then the one he DID find had no diaphragm in it - it was an empty can.

I cleaned mine out and it seemed to help - probably needs it again, or needs replaced by now - but not by them.

They also wanted $89 each (CDN) for injectors. Rebuilt injectors. You might get the idea that NAPA doesn't get much of my business.
 
CDR can be cleaned with Diesel fuel or paint-thinner - not lacquer-thinner, acetone, methyl ethyl keytone esters, trichlorethylene, carbon tetrachloride, sildenafil citrate, etc................

There are three (count'em: 3) CDR's available for the 6.2\6.5

1 - 6.2 n\a

1 - 6.5 n\a

1 - 6.5 TD

May be two for the TD: one "S", one "F"

They look alike - don't mix'em............
 
Just soak in diesel fuel or paint thinner? Which is better?

Heath says over night. Can it get clean quicker than that?
 
Quicker if you slosh it around, using nitrile gloves from harborfreightdotcom - otherwise, leave it soak - Diesel fuel is a lite oil - paint thinner is oil-free - can also be cleaned very well with autozone engine cleaner in the orange\white container - flush with hot water from the spigot on yer house water heater for ~140*F, dries clean and fast - try it, you'll like it...............
 
My napa one works good. I dont get barely any oil at all in my intake now. I go to a napa store where i know everyone.... In the country, the ones in the city are a waste of time.
 
DieselSlug said:
My napa one works good. I dont get barely any oil at all in my intake now. I go to a napa store where i know everyone.... In the country, the ones in the city are a waste of time.
Click to expand...

Good. Mine is in the country, but IT's a waste of time... every store is different. Good parts guys make it worthwhile; sounds like you have some.

Wish I did.
 
I got mine from napaonline shipped to me. Seems to be fine.

It is called PCV in the description, part no: CRB29445
 
I've posted detailed operation incl how to clean and test on the 3 major 6.5 forums, incl this one - low-pressure hi-volume spring-loaded silicone-rubber diaphragm regulator\valve - spring keeps valve open against Baro - closes as crankcase pressure rises to ~6"H20 over Baro - Baro is ~29"HG - Baro + crankcase pressure overcomes spring pressure - simple.....efficient...works fine lasts a long time

And, replacing it is not even gonna prevent oily turbo inlet or intake plenum - the CDR's ultimate goal is to pass oily crankcase vapors into the intake system and cylinders to be burned with the Diesel fuel

Only cure for the oily mess is Provent or Racor CCV\CDR filter cannister - separates the oily mist from the vapors, allowing drain-back to the crankcase
 
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gmctd said:
I've posted detailed operation incl how to clean and test on the 3 major 6.5 forums, incl this one - low-pressure hi-volume spring-loaded silicone-rubber diaphragm regulator\valve - spring keeps valve open against Baro - closes as crankcase pressure rises to ~6"H20 over Baro - Baro is ~29"HG - Baro + crankcase pressure overcomes spring pressure - simple.....efficient...works fine lasts a long time

And, replacing it is not even gonna prevent oily turbo inlet or intake plenum - the CDR's ultimate goal is to pass oily crankcase vapors into the intake system and cylinders to be burned with the Diesel fuel

Only cure for the oily mess is Provent or Racor CCV\CDR filter cannister - separates the oily mist from the vapors, allowing drain-back to the crankcase
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Provent,that's what i got on my 98.Works fine,intake stays as clean as a wistle but at prolonged idle the dipstick starts steaming.
 
Certainly does......down at the EPA , and all federally-mandated state DOT inspection stations, beginning 2010 - defeated emissions equipment = ticket, no inspection sticker, repeat offenders can lose driver license - new 18-wheelers have been required to comply since '06 - so, yeah, hang out there, dude - yer star is fixin' ta shine............
 
gmctd, I don't recommend or disabling any emission equipment, I was just referring to a chat I had with Bison last week about this same subject. "Vent to atmosphere, road draft tube, 18 wheelers; ring any bells?" These were some of the items discussed. The last 2 commercial trucks I drove regularly came with Crankcase vented to atmosphere, both Freightliners; a '06 Columbia (80K gvw) and a '07 18kgvw M-class, both new, serviced at the Stealership. Both had something like the Provent keeping the oil inside the engine. IIRC, both were Cats. No offense intended or implied.
 
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