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Cdr has chunky gunk in it

B

bdemutis

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I took my cdr off today because I was replacing the hose on it I took it off and I have this gunk all in the hose and condensation. Is this a bad sign I know I might have a little to much oil from when I did the oil change.
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You may have a coolant leak into the oil - head gaskets, cracks: block/heads, water pump gasket/backplate. Making oil is for sure a bad leak sign. Outside chance you are short tripping it and then corrosion is making it green when the water does get burned off on a longer trip.

You need to take this vehicle out of service until you find the leak. Coolant takes bearings out quick including turbo bearings. They may be already hurt. UOA is a good thing to do on this engine to get advanced warnings.

If you are around 200K head gasket life I would start by pulling the t-stat crossover and belt. then start the engine and see what side bubbles. The bubbles mean a leak and that side head needs to come off. No cooling system pressure (bubbles) from combustion means the leak or crack is elsewhere. Block crack or water pump/timing cover area. Possible even a head bolt leaking.
 
I know why it looks green I had a copper line for my cdr tube because I didn't have one so I raided my dad's plumbing box lol. It smells like normal oil.
 
Yes the copper would explain it, however, that looks like a lot of moisture. To be sure you need a UOA. If you ruined the old oil in a common drain pan run the engine 100 miles and then take a sample just for a coolant trace test.
 
I checked my dipstick it dosnt look milky it just looks like regular black oil.
 
Don't talk about it, just send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. It's a good idea to do samples periodically anyway. You can catch things you didn't know were going wrong before they are a catastrophe with oil samples
 
jrsavoie said:
Don't talk about it, just send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs. It's a good idea to do samples periodically anyway. You can catch things you didn't know were going wrong before they are a catastrophe with oil samples
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I'll have to do that after I replace the oil cooler lines.
 
There are other things that could cause the discoloration. Is this something you normally see at certain intervals, or just now? Copper, yes, and water. Along with different waxes (c25-c50) that could get there via oil/fuel break down. What fuel do you run-what bio mix if #2 (on pump label). If you have a small sample like that left, place it on a steel plate and attempt to ignite it with a cigarette lighter. If it melts and reconstitutes it is a petroleum wax, and no worries. If it will ignite, it is fuel derived and can indicate fuel washing out into the oil pan. If it spatters then you are dealing with water. If it goes more fluid, and darkens to a deep green, then that is the copper breaking down in the oil and indicates a high acidic level of oil(not good for bearings) This is just if you really want to chase down what it is. Regardless, it all needs to go.

If you cant send it out now, and are forced to drive the vehicle, I would at least change the oil and filter, save a sample into a clean container for testing later. Get it out of there sooner rather than later. Wash the cdr with diesel and dry it out. Pour back in a touch of engine oil to "rinse" the diesel.
 
Will L. said:
There are other things that could cause the discoloration. Is this something you normally see at certain intervals, or just now? Copper, yes, and water. Along with different waxes (c25-c50) that could get there via oil/fuel break down. What fuel do you run-what bio mix if #2 (on pump label). If you have a small sample like that left, place it on a steel plate and attempt to ignite it with a cigarette lighter. If it melts and reconstitutes it is a petroleum wax, and no worries. If it will ignite, it is fuel derived and can indicate fuel washing out into the oil pan. If it spatters then you are dealing with water. If it goes more fluid, and darkens to a deep green, then that is the copper breaking down in the oil and indicates a high acidic level of oil(not good for bearings) This is just if you really want to chase down what it is. Regardless, it all needs to go.

If you cant send it out now, and are forced to drive the vehicle, I would at least change the oil and filter, save a sample into a clean container for testing later. Get it out of there sooner rather than later. Wash the cdr with diesel and dry it out. Pour back in a touch of engine oil to "rinse" the diesel.
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No that's the first time I seen it I mean I just got the truck but the stuff was waxey feeling and smelled like oil I am slightly high on oil.
 
Adding to the chorus of getting an analysis of the oil.

My last motor went from awesome to trash in just 10K miles and had to replace it due to coolant contamination. Had I done an analysis at the 5K mark, am highly confident I could have salvaged the old motor. Old motor sounded great, had good pressure, and still got reasonable mileage.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Adding to the chorus of getting an analysis of the oil.

My last motor went from awesome to trash in just 10K miles and had to replace it due to coolant contamination. Had I done an analysis at the 5K mark, am highly confident I could have salvaged the old motor. Old motor sounded great, had good pressure, and still got reasonable mileage.
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I will but for know I'll keep an eye on the coolant level. What's a good company to send the oil to.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Blackstone or Oil Analyzers are the ones that get the most attention.
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Ok I'll have to check it out like I said I know I put to much oil in and the truck sat for a month when it was getting body work and I haven't seen any coolant consumption.
Edit: Just ordered a kit and what do you mean by I don't need to change the oil once I take the drain plug out its draining lol. Especially because my lift kit hanger is in the way.
 
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bdemutis said:
. . . what do you mean by I don't need to change the oil once I take the drain plug out its draining. . .
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Best method is to warm the motor to operating temp, shut it down, then sample by backing the plug out enough so that you can control the dribble into the sample jar; screw the plug back into the pan when the sample jar is full enough.

Goal is to get a good mix of what is in the oil and not get a concentration of stuff that settles, or miss stuff that rises, as the oil cools.
 
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