- Staff
- #1
I posted this at FSC.com, and figured I would put it here as well since some of you guys still play with gassers.
I built a 355 for a friend earlier this year and we did it on a pretty tight budget for the most part. He recently dyno'd it, and needless to say I was very impressed with what it made for no more than we put in it. The engine got just a basic rebuild on it, so nothing fancy.
Heres the build list:
SEALED POWER .030 over cast pistons polished with a brown scotch brite pad
SEALED POWER moly rings
stock GM 80's rods
reground crank with ACL bearings
COMP CAM MAGNUM timing chain 2100
COMP CAM hydraulic EFI cam XE249H
COMP CAM bolt lock plate
COMP CAM lifters
stock pushrods
stock valve spring hardware
COMP CAM springs 981-16
VORTEC oil seals for the valve stem's
ARP head bolts(I hate stretch bolts)
MELLINGS 10552 oil pump and matching pick-up(hardened oil pump drive included)
and FEL-PRO gaskets to seal it all up
The heads got a very basic port job which entailed cleaning up the swirl ports and removing the lip under the valve in the intake runner, cleaning the exhaust ports and beveling the guide slightly to reduce reversion, beveled the lip in the combustion chambers and just a basic smoothing of them in general
Intake just got a good cleaning and removed any pieces of slag in the castings in the runners
throttle body got the air horn cut off and slighlty thinned the throttle shaft
stock injectors got soaked in my carb cleaner and then pop tested the redneck way to verify spray pattern
A set of mid length 1 5/8" headers that he got given to him(pretty rusty and leak a bit, but work)
and an aold JET chip out of a wrecked truck
All and all I believe he spent about $1300 in parts(I won't disclose my labor charges), but it made for a good solid budget build. It's a 88 standard cab K1500 with 3.42 gears, put down 262HP and 352 foot pounds of torque at the rear wheels averaged over 3 runs. He did say it fell off flat at 5,000, but was really flat from 1,000-4,000 RPM's on the dyno. I'm just throwing this out there to show that you don't have to throw a bunch of money at one of these to make a respectable engine that can tow strong and still keep up with modern trucks.
I built a 355 for a friend earlier this year and we did it on a pretty tight budget for the most part. He recently dyno'd it, and needless to say I was very impressed with what it made for no more than we put in it. The engine got just a basic rebuild on it, so nothing fancy.
Heres the build list:
SEALED POWER .030 over cast pistons polished with a brown scotch brite pad
SEALED POWER moly rings
stock GM 80's rods
reground crank with ACL bearings
COMP CAM MAGNUM timing chain 2100
COMP CAM hydraulic EFI cam XE249H
COMP CAM bolt lock plate
COMP CAM lifters
stock pushrods
stock valve spring hardware
COMP CAM springs 981-16
VORTEC oil seals for the valve stem's
ARP head bolts(I hate stretch bolts)
MELLINGS 10552 oil pump and matching pick-up(hardened oil pump drive included)
and FEL-PRO gaskets to seal it all up
The heads got a very basic port job which entailed cleaning up the swirl ports and removing the lip under the valve in the intake runner, cleaning the exhaust ports and beveling the guide slightly to reduce reversion, beveled the lip in the combustion chambers and just a basic smoothing of them in general
Intake just got a good cleaning and removed any pieces of slag in the castings in the runners
throttle body got the air horn cut off and slighlty thinned the throttle shaft
stock injectors got soaked in my carb cleaner and then pop tested the redneck way to verify spray pattern
A set of mid length 1 5/8" headers that he got given to him(pretty rusty and leak a bit, but work)
and an aold JET chip out of a wrecked truck
All and all I believe he spent about $1300 in parts(I won't disclose my labor charges), but it made for a good solid budget build. It's a 88 standard cab K1500 with 3.42 gears, put down 262HP and 352 foot pounds of torque at the rear wheels averaged over 3 runs. He did say it fell off flat at 5,000, but was really flat from 1,000-4,000 RPM's on the dyno. I'm just throwing this out there to show that you don't have to throw a bunch of money at one of these to make a respectable engine that can tow strong and still keep up with modern trucks.