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brake line leak

haggus

haggus

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Location
Sooke BC
Ok

I found the leak in my brake line finally it is right where the cab meets the box on the drivers side.

I have done some line repair before I have a double flare tool what is the best way to get this out and replaced. What parts am I going to need. Anyone have a brake line diagram for these trucks. Right now I can't even find a fitting to disconnect it.

Thanks
 
It it is where you say it is, I am guessing there is a connection at each end. The first connection would be right where it comes down to the frame from the master cylinder. The 2nd would be back by the tank.

I really liked the pre-bent stainless lines I got from inlinetube.com

You should be able to find a brake line schematic at Nalley and a few other sites. This is the schematic i found for the 1995 Tahoe. http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAsse...=1995&ukey_category=19393&ukey_driveLine=6246
 
Some info I have gathered.

I just did this job on my 95 . if you look closely immediately behind the tank in the frame there may be a union there. Get the plastic clips loose, think a 12 socket . and you can work with it.

Mine was rusted behind the tank so I ended up taking the tank out. I had to cut the bolt in the back inside bracket and took the
complete mount loose from the frame on the front one. I replaced mine from front to rear.

There is a union right where the frame comes down in the front. I believe the fittings are metric. I soaked all the connections for a day before I started and they all came loose.
I had to replace the lines to the wheel cyls last summer due to lines being stuck in the wheel cyls which needed replacing.

To do the job right you need to drop the tank. It took about 12 ft of line from the connection below the firewall to the rubber line. Purchase two 5 ft pieces of line , a three ft , and two ft all with ends. Those are standard lengths. either the two ft or the three ft you will not need , don't remember which. Also get three unions in case the old ones won't come apart.

Get a 4 ft also, I think the line down to the rubber hose needs three ft but if you use a 4 ft you can put a complete loop or even two in the line a few inches before the fitting. This makes it a lot easier to get the threads started. The fittings on the gas lines were rusted so tight they wouldn't come lose without breaking the lines on the tank, even after a week of soaking. so I cut the steal lines on the tank and bought some hose and clamps to patch them, this also allowed more to work with when installing the tank.Instructions on tank in previous post.

Following the bends on the old lines makes for a nice installation and makes it easier. If you don't have one , a simple tubing bender don't cost that much,any extra parts you don't need most places will let you return. When your not sure get extras nothing more aggravating then not having the right stuff in the middle of a job. If you have never worked with double flares, it can be very difficult and near impossible with old lines.Hope this helps.
 
jrsavoie said:
It it is where you say it is, I am guessing there is a connection at each end. The first connection would be right where it comes down to the frame from the master cylinder. The 2nd would be back by the tank.

I really liked the pre-bent stainless lines I got from inlinetube.com

You should be able to find a brake line schematic at Nalley and a few other sites. This is the schematic i found for the 1995 Tahoe. http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAsse...=1995&ukey_category=19393&ukey_driveLine=6246
Click to expand...

Great site it looks like there should be a union right about 3/4 of the way back at the tank. Naturally the only access is to drop the fuel tank or take off the box which I had planned on doing. The box will get lifted tomorrow an we will see what is in there.

Probably a good idea to do the line all the way back it would suck to go just at the union and have the old piece still left spring a leak. I will go to the hose right at the rear diff and be done with it for a while.
 
Job for the day lift the box off the truck. I had my helper with me so we got box loose and lifted. Tomorrow will be brake line replacement bleed and bolt everything back up. I taught my helper the rule of " the one" that is the one bolt that never comes out. Also the nut extractor and what it's purpose is.

I soaked everything in penetrating oil yesterday and the bolts at the bumper were a PITA, the bolts at the forward end of the leaf spring were a f@#$% PITA. That was where we located " the one"

Soaked the unions in more penetrating oil hopefully those and the clips are not going to be that difficult we'll see which is "the one" for that part. I had to take the box off for a new spray liner I want to apply so this will make that job easier. The pics show the box lifted about 1" but I can lift it completely out of the way makes the brake job much easier.

I looked at lowering the tank but I am not really setup for that so this works for me.

My neighbour stopped to have a look we were laughing because I routinely have this truck apart and I am working on this or that I told him this truck tells me when she needs attention and I am pretty sure there are very few nuts and bolts I have not touched on this truck. Anyway beats a 700/ mos truck payment.

Also had a friend come by and help me run the 6/3 copper for my new hot tub so after all this crawling and lifting cursing and so forth it will be time for a nice dip in the hot tub and a drink.

box 1.jpg
box 2.jpg
box 3.jpg
 
I use NiCopp brake lines, very easy to work with and will not rust. I install this on my own vehicles and customers vehicles. Never had a complaint yet.
 
jrsavoie said:
Anti-seeze on everything when it goes back together
Click to expand...


where is that like button? :) favorite container of goop in the entire shop, use it on everything. I have started to use it on hitch balls, not cheap, but lasts a long time and doesnt attract dirt like grease.
 
GM Guy said:
where is that like button? :) favorite container of goop in the entire shop, use it on everything. I have started to use it on hitch balls, not cheap, but lasts a long time and doesnt attract dirt like grease.
Click to expand...

I've never used it on my balls.

"I use NiCopp brake lines, very easy to work with and will not rust. I install this on my own vehicles and customers vehicles. Never had a complaint yet."

Do you have a link? Where do you buy them?

https://www.google.com/search?q=NiC...57&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8
 
I just grabbed regular lengths of brake from the local parts store I figure the originals lasted 19 years. I do not live in a rust belt if I have to change them again in 19 years I am good with that.

The bed bolts looked like they had blue Loctite on them fairly rusted but again for 19 years I can wire brush them and they will go back together no worries. I can put anti seize since I want to lift the bed again this spring to do the spray in bedliner.
 
Almost finished got the line in brakes bled. The box is sitting back on the frame bolted at the corners. I just need to tighten up the brackets and put the brake lights and tailgate back on.

Ran out of daylight and I'm off to work tomorrow the finishing up might have to wait till Thurs or Fri.
 
I am in the rust belt and have had terribly poor longevity out of the over the counter lines. I've had times where I got as little as 2 years out of them. I haven't used them in years.



haggus said:
I just grabbed regular lengths of brake from the local parts store I figure the originals lasted 19 years. I do not live in a rust belt if I have to change them again in 19 years I am good with that.

The bed bolts looked like they had blue Loctite on them fairly rusted but again for 19 years I can wire brush them and they will go back together no worries. I can put anti seize since I want to lift the bed again this spring to do the spray in bedliner.
Click to expand...
 
I should say I replaced the front brake hoses last year there is another thread that covers that job.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?38034-front-brakes

I did not replace the rear brake hose this time but those lines may get replaced later on the inline kits look like a good deal for replacement lines and it is nice to include all your lines at once. Something like that would require planning ahead or having the vehicle down for awhile awaiting delivery.

Local parts store has stainless line and bending it is easy enough took all of 20 min and cost was 45.00 for all the line and coupling I used.
 
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