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Binding on full turn

F

FellowTraveler

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I need some input on binding at full turn in my steering with a standard front 9.25" IFS this does not happen always so I'm stumped..........with my locker unit in and engaged there is binding but I still have not switched back to my ARB locker unit because the person I had replacing bearings, gear set, locker seals and convert from the flex air line to the newer copper air line supply seems to be stumped on how to route the copper line inside the differential.
 
My factory limited slip will every once in a while grab and give a little extra scrub bind in a tight turn. I feel the inside rear wheel try to grip some more than when its acting like an open differential. Sometimes it makes a little scrubbing noise depending on surface especially freshly sealed asphalt or the end of my driveway which is stamped (like slate), colored and sealed concrete.

I checked the air pressure in my rear tires and there was almost 20 psi difference that might have had some to do with it so maybe check yours.
 
Thanks guys, I have an open carrier installed in the front now "until my front locker diff is returned", my rear locker is OK, the binding "sounds like a grinding noise" is in the front steering w/o locker diff or 4wd being engaged.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Is it the normal pop from the front tires on sharp turns that you're hearing?
Click to expand...
It is infrequent and sounds like a grinding noise I'm investigating if it is the tire rubbing on something everything seems to be tight and wheel rolls fine in both directions when jacked off ground... I have mud almost daily in/out the property so I'll have to get out and really look hard to see if there is any contact at full turn.
 
Warranty from napa... same as shopping in China, most of there stuff is re branded so they can still sell something, cv's aren't cheap, for those kinda parts I went to gm.... still may be china but it makes me feel better anyway... who really knows these days..
 
In Hummers snapping the ring of the cv joint is the common problem (they are refered to as halfshaft axles), I choose to not upgrade as keeping the known weak link. However chrome moly heavy duty cv parts are available for almost any set up. I'm sure someone out there makes good one for the pickups. Other than a stronger parts, they last forever as long as you keep the grease on it.
 
Will L. said:
In Hummers snapping the ring of the cv joint is the common problem (they are refered to as halfshaft axles), I choose to not upgrade as keeping the known weak link. However chrome moly heavy duty cv parts are available for almost any set up. I'm sure someone out there makes good one for the pickups. Other than a stronger parts, they last forever as long as you keep the grease on it.
Click to expand...
I see a set for $2.5k but that is steep for my use...is this the one you suggest? http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJIFS-GM2535
 
That would be the premier set. I knew of that outfit but didn't bother mentioning because I knew their price range. I figure there has to be other companies out there where you can get just the cage and ball bearings to install into your assembly as that is the usual fail point in any cv joint. Might run a few hundred in parts but the long term savings would eliminate the issue.

If it's a case of rather spend your labor over parts cost then search for a lifetime warranty part from a flap and get real good at swapping them.
 
Well I finally got back to working on the 99 Burb replacing upper/lower ball joints w/MOOG problem solvers, d/s half shaft and inner hub seals. I found the d/s upper control arm stop bent down about 1" so will fix that too using porta power w/clam-shell tool to spread it back in place. J-tool makes easy work of removal and install of lower joints especially if the joints are left in the freezer for a few hours.DSCI0010.JPG DSCI0012.JPG DSCI0015.JPG
 
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