Best way to remove and replace Vacuum Pulley?

[TurboTahoe]

Hi guys,

On the way home yesterday with the Tahoe, a loud squealing sound was coming from under hood.

I got the Tahoe home and popped the hood. I could see that the vacuum pulley was intermittently getting stuck, and the serpentine belt was slipping against it and squealing.

Oh boy. Well, I read the threads (like a good forum member) and read up on vacuum pump removal and replacement options.

1) I realize I could get a TurboMaster setup and just ditch the whole vacuum pump setup.
2) I could replace the vacuum pump throw it back in, and just keep driving.

I am leaning towards answer 2, reason being that cash is tight (common problem ) and if I put in a TurboMaster, I'll want full gauges to see what's going on. That would mean probably 400+ in more parts.

If I just follow path 2, I can just get by with the stock setup and keep on driving for now. I found that NAPA sells a pump, NAPA Part #64-1009, for around $130. I think its the right one. I need to get this thing on the road this weekend if at all possible, otherwise I'd be ordering from one of our valued vendors.

Anyway, here's the question. I got the vac pump out after wrestling for awhile, and found out that GulfSurfer's experience is the same as mine: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...rt3-Vacuum-Pump-Removal&highlight=vacuum+pump

Here's a shot of the pulley. And finally my question: Exactly how do I remove that bad boy? And then get it onto the new pump?

Thanks guys,

-Rob

 

[bfourman]

I am leaning towards answer 2, reason being that cash is tight (common problem ) and if I put in a TurboMaster, I'll want full gauges to see what's going on. That would mean probably 400+ in more parts.


View attachment 23996

For what it's worth I have less than $100 in my turbomaster and boost gauge setup, including a new serpentine belt.

As for the pulley, you will need a power steering pulley puller (available for rent at most parts stores) to remove and install.

 

[Big T]

If this were my predicament, after spending time here I would suck it up and dump the vac pump. Home made turbo master and boost gauge. Get the 3 gauge pillar mount and add the other gauges over time. The complete
turbo boost gauge is $75. IIRC 3 gauge pods are $65 to $95. Guys say they can make turbo masters for like $30. You're not much more into this than the cost of the vac pump. Staying with the vac pump gets you no forward progress. Just sayin.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

some people like the Vac PCM controlled WG.....espcially when tuned for it.....TM has it's pros and cons too.....Ideal would be to be able to switch to TM when PCM/Vac/boost trouble happens....

 

[bfourman]

I switched over to the TM setup mainly to eliminate the possibility of the vac pump locking up and trashing the belt. For work I service an ambulance fleet of 7.3Ls and have changed more vac pumps than I can count. I realize on the 7.3L you have to have a vac pump, but I wanted to keep myself from cursing my truck on a family trip if the pump went south.

Plus the manual boost control is really nice.

 

[bk95td]

I prefer the vac system. totally tunable. Finding a good quality replacement pump is a problem. LeRoy [pmd cable] claims his are top shelf. Priced right there with parts store prices.
The pulley comes off with a puller. There also is a installer for putting them back on. The internal threads on the power steering and vac pumps is 3/8nc. I use a piece of 3/8 all thread and nuts and washers to install the pulleys.

 

[TurboTahoe]

Thanks guys for all your gracious and thoughtful replies. It was very helpful.

I have succeeded in replacing the vacuum pump, and yes, you need a 'power steering pump pulley puller/installer'. It's a device that clamps onto the little flange in the center of the pulley (see photo in original post) and pulls the press-fit pulley off, and then you thread a 3/8" bolt into the center of the new pump, and basically use a nut and flat washer to press fit the old pulley onto the new pump.

Using a kit I borrowed from Autozone, the pulley went off and on in a jiffy.

Everything went back together a lot easier than it came out.

Thanks again. I do plan to save some dough and buy some gauges for both rigs, but that's another day.

The Tahoe is running again. I am hopeful that the NAPA rebuilt vacuum pump will go the distance.

Thank you again guys,

Rob

 

[buddy]

some people like the Vac PCM controlled WG.....espcially when tuned for it.....TM has it's pros and cons too.....Ideal would be to be able to switch to TM when PCM/Vac/boost trouble happens....

Yes, I like the control of the vacuum system. With the ATT I no longer have it though. Leroy sells brand new pumps for less than rebuilds. The rebuilt ones that dont last have only made the system seem more and more bad.

You can do like CrankMe69 did and put a screen door sping on it for now with a 101" belt until you get a good one and save some money, and then you have the vac delete belt in case you need it later.

And unfortunately that hypertech chip isn't helping you on the boost front. I used to have one, downloaded it and looked at it and its pretty basic, no boost curve changes.

 

[buddy]

woops Im a little late

 

[TurboTahoe]

woops Im a little late

Hi Buddy!

Not too late actually. I just want to fix it for now and then do some mods like a different chip. What would you recommend?

Thanks

Rob

 

[buddy]

What do you have for exhaust after the downpipe and muffler? That may be the first update recommendation. Then a couple gauges, boost and EGT. Then any chip you bought today would be better than the hypertech, improve boost performance and more fuel.

 

[Davediesel3]

I have discovered that the vac pump is "rebuildable" (but not sure of parts availabilaty) if you look at the pump there are bolts that let you remove the bladder thus seperating the cam / pulley, this area contains lubricant so be ready to clean it up. I would first try to "free up the original cam and add lube like maybe gear oil? (this would most likely be a temp fix) but I see it possible to switch this section over without any puller and would also see it a good idea to keep the old bladder section (provided it was working) for future issues.
I have done this with a friends vac pump and my old one, his was one that bolts kame from the rear to hold it on and mine the bolts went through the pulley so I swapped the bladder assembly from mine to his and "ta da" he had a good working vac pump.

 

[TurboTahoe]

What do you have for exhaust after the downpipe and muffler? That may be the first update recommendation. Then a couple gauges, boost and EGT. Then any chip you bought today would be better than the hypertech, improve boost performance and more fuel.

Hi buddy,

1) Everything is stock except for the downpipe and crossover, which are the larger mandrel-bent ones from Flowmaster. Would changing the rest of the system really result in more benefit?

2) I agree that Boost and EGT would be the next in the chain.

3) Do you have any chip recommendations (ones that would leverage use of the stock Vacuum system for complete control)?

Thanks buddy,

Rob

 

[Big T]

Hi buddy,

1) Everything is stock except for the downpipe and crossover, which are the larger mandrel-bent ones from Flowmaster. Would changing the rest of the system really result in more benefit?

2) I agree that Boost and EGT would be the next in the chain.

3) Do you have any chip recommendations (ones that would leverage use of the stock Vacuum system for complete control)?

Thanks buddy,

Rob

I just recently swapped out the stock section from the downpipe back on the '99. I already had the mandrel bent crossover and downpipe, though I had to replace the downpipe as it shear off at the exhaust connection due to rust. The PO had listed a Warpspeed 4" exhaust, but that was only from the muffler back. The crushed stock section from the soot trap to the downpipe was still there. I went with the 4" turbo back from Diamond Eye. After I got it installed, I noted 2-3 psi increase at the top range of the turbo boost and 1 tick lower on the coolant temp gauge. I also felt a noticeable acceleration difference and this is a truck with programming and ATT. Also, the sound from the engine compartment was noticeably reduced because without the restriction, it was now going out the tailpipe.

So in answer to your question, yes the exhaust in combination with good programming will make a noticeable difference. It's the combination of less back pressure, lower EGTs, better programming.

 

[bk95td]

PS/vac pump pulley puller pics

Pics of the OTC puller I have

 

[buddy]

Yes, pipe alone creates backpressure itself, the larger the pipe the less backpressure, and a higher flow muffler is better. This is absolutely necessary for safely running a real power program, and if ever going to use a larger turbo it essential. And it will make any truck more efficient and extend power curve to make higher RPM better. I recommend a 4" system all the way back from the downpipe. You have bigT's experience above and THMark just found out how ditching the 3" system which is bigger than stock was choking his ATT for performance, and when it ripped off his spooling was faster, EGTs lower, and max boost higher. You dont need more max pressure but its more efficient at all boost levels.

 

[NVW]

You want to hear turbo spoolup?

When I tested the injectors and compression on the 98, I fired it up with the down pipe off, did it ever whine.