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Battery relocation

3500GMC

What T F, over
Messages
5,565
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Location
Nashport, Ohio
Well I did it. I will have to remove the RR tire and a bed side brace to R+R batteries (should only happen every 5,6,7 years anyway) and the cables (2/0) will be a little more involved. But alas, the batteries are kicked out of the engine bay. Basically is a tray that is welded to a pair of 1/4" thick brackets that bolt to the front spring bracket and the bed/cab bracket. It's not going anywhere.

Some careful measurement landed them in this spot. They are the OEM size but the ones pictured are the dual terminal. My new set will be side post only. The top posts WILL clear the bed cross braces underneath.

I had to make 3 long SS 1/4" bolts that can be removed from the underside. No other fasteners to fumble with for hold downs.

Under the hood the main OEM battery cable was cut and re-attached to the backside of a post mounted in the old air intake opening to facilitate jump starting and charging. This also is where the now upgraded 8 AWG accessory feed is wired in. This wire supplies the terminal strip on the firewall which is the main wire for the electrical system.

At the main starter lug (solenoid) the new 2/0 cable and existing OEM battery cable is fastened.

Will follow up with the underside pics (bed on) of the battery tray.
 

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Very interesting. Thanks much for sharing. I plan to relocate my batteries as well.

The batt's OEM location is prime real estate in the way of a better, straighter intake path, among other potential uses for that space. Plus this location also lowers the chassis center of gravity a bit. Also puts that weight btwn the wheels as compared to hanging over/in front of the wheels. All the better to lower chassis polar inertia don't 'cha know:)

I'd thought about putting them in my truck's cross toolbox, but I hate to compromise that useful space.
 
I assume you don't drive this truck in snow or mud? I would be a bit nervous about rocks and other debris flying off the tires hitting the batteries. Most commercial rigs have them in a vented enclosed box. Your frame looks great.
 
I hope you don't come to regret that location there tucked under the box?
Me thinks corroded connections is gonna be a bigger issue there.
The guys that had a tractor who had/have the batts onder the floor boards prob agree.

If i had the box off i would take the opportunity and cut a big access hole over the tank Fuel sending unit in it and use a bigger piece from an other box to cover it.

BTW ,Nice job on the frame paint
 
There is room to work under there. Before I go out in any 'weather' there will a nice little splash guard/box built to help keep the crud out. Dielectric grease will help with the corrosion. The bed slid right down over the batteries when we lowered it back on the frame. Just had to shift to the right some, then back over to the left.

Interesting note, I built all the brackets, did the cables, bolted down the batteries with the bed off relying totally on measurements and a pair of MOCK batteries built from cardboard! Needless to say when it fit, there was much rejoicing. :)

I knew it'd fit. :scratchchin:
 
Nice job, I would also look into enclosing them just to keep road grime off. Maybe an access from above through the box floor.
 
Put a splash shield in front of and behind them, looks good
That's the plan for now.
That does look really good. Question ... how are you going to route charging and starting?
Read post 1 again, it's in there.
Looks really good, what do you have for air filtration?
Right now a big round K&N up in the RF corner, soon to be enclosed. Temporary now, later I will be switching out turbos.

Thanks for the complements all.
 
that looks really good.
is there any reason you didn't put under the cab?? that's where i was planning on putting mine. i just might build me a box for mine instead of buying one. i like the jumper under the hood also.
can you get a better pic of the frame bracket, where it attaches to the box and the frame?
did you do anything about a splash guard?
 
that looks really good.
is there any reason you didn't put under the cab?? that's where i was planning on putting mine. i just might build me a box for mine instead of buying one. i like the jumper under the hood also.
can you get a better pic of the frame bracket, where it attaches to the box and the frame?
did you do anything about a splash guard?

Thanks for the kind words. My '93 is a regular cab, so space limited compared to an EC or CC.. Measure once cut twice. :D

I will get some under photos soon. Splash guard, yes, being right ahead of the RR tire on my particular setup, at the very least, a guard that extends the front part of the bed inner fender downward will really help. The dual battery tray is just welded to the brackets that are in turn bolted to both the OEM bed/cab and leaf spring brackets. Four bolts and it's OUT.

Batteries are well sealed, so if they get dollop of mud or water, they will shrug it off.
 
I like the idea also, gets the batterys out of the heat too. Whats your "bigger reason" you did this? Going to use the OEM bat/air filter for something?
 
The stock air boxes are an abortion. Using the entire RF corner for cold air induction now. Later... maybe... twin turbos with water to air intercooler. Maybe...Depends.. Hopefully..:D

An added benefit of getting the batteries near the RR too is traction, especially on a SRW regular cab. A little better balance.
 
As promised, a look under the truck in the battery box area. Pics are of old batteries coming out. It was time to get new batteries in there before WINTER... The old ones were hanging in there but were starting to crank slow. They were 6 years old this month. The ones that came with the '93 when I bought her..

Went with Autocraft Gold from Advance Auto... (I affectionately refer to them as Retard Auto.. :D) Just a joke, c'mon. Johnson Controls makes the battery... One of the two U.S. mfr's left that do batteries...84 month warranty (pro-rated of course) 7 years. Fine by me.

Ran the old batts (Autocraft Titanium/Johnson Controls) all spring and summer, no corrosion problems with the terminal lugs. Used the Dielectric grease, that helps. They were top/side posts.

The new batts are side post only which is ok. With these, a guy could move the battery tray UP another inch no problem.

Easy R+R, just the way I designed it... :coolgleamA: See ya in seven years....... with the way this 6.2 fires off, the batteries will last a long time.

No sparks or welding anything together.. Boring actually... :D

Removal of RR tire, bed brace and splash guard was necessary.

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