Barn door actuator

[Rodd]

I just pulled the barn door actuator because it stopped working. I went to kragen and they want $60 for it. The kid there said to go to an auto alarm shop and they sell them for $15 but you have to splice in the 2 wires. Has anyone done this? I also want to test it w/ a multi meter to make sure it's good because I noticed the rear defroster is using the same power as the actuator and it doesn't work either. What do I set my multi meter at to check for continuity? Also what is a good reading?

Also the key hole on the barn door is stuck and won't work I sprayed some wd40 in it but it's still stuck. Any thoughts?

 

[DennisG01]

Before you go and buy something... did you try cleaning the pins and the contacts? A scrub pad works well for this, then a little bit of dielectric grease. Also, make sure the pins move in and out freely.

I've never had one apart to tell you exactly what to do with this particular switch, but in general, when checking a switch you're just looking for continuity (low) when you close the switch (the display should read very similar to what it looks like when you touch the two leads together -- close to, if not, zero (NOT infinity). It won't really matter what setting you put your meter on, but you can put it on the lowest if you're concerned.

 

[Rodd]

It reads zero at 20 on all settings that have a 20 on the mm.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Yep, always take a piece of fine scotch bright to the contacts to clean them every couple of months. They are in the elements and tarnish over and cause all kinds of problems with the defroster and locks. One of these days I might put cords in as I'm getting tired of my barn door lock not working all the time.

 

[Rodd]

I just tested it again at different spots on the pins and the meter started jumping. Would cleaning them up fix that?

 

[DennisG01]

It should. Try it out and post back.

 

[DennisG01]

It reads zero at 20 on all settings that have a 20 on the mm.

What do you mean by that? Can you explain that - or post a pic of your meter?

You should be reading on a scale that has a little upside-down horseshoe looking sign (Omega if you're greek).

In an ideal world, zero is a perfect reading. If it's a high reading, that's not good.

 

[Rodd]

What do you mean by that? Can you explain that - or post a pic of your meter?

You should be reading on a scale that has a little upside-down horseshoe looking sign (Omega if you're greek).

In an ideal world, zero is a perfect reading. If it's a high reading, that's not good.

It is set on the upside down horse shoe setting at 20. When I connect to the 2 pins I get 0 but when I put them on different parts of the pins I get a reading for a brief second in the 15-18 range. I will upload the pictures once my phone email sends them to me. The picture is a large file.

 

[Rodd]

Here are the photo's of the actuator.

In this 2nd one you see the little 2 tabs that the plug connects to. I cleaned those w/ a scotch bright pad and put some dielectric grease and they still don't work.

Has anyone had any success rebuilding these?

 

[fastjohnny]

Clean the terminals with "The Works" toilet bowel cleaner, then rinse. If it doesn't work after that, it's junk.

 

[DennisG01]

The pins you want to clean are the ones where contact is made when the door closes. Open the starboard-side door and look in the top, right-hand corner. Nothing needs to be taken apart for this. Clean the pin ends, the mating/contact surface and make sure the pins move in and out freely. It should be about a 2-minute job.

 

[Rodd]

The pins you want to clean are the ones where contact is made when the door closes. Open the starboard-side door and look in the top, right-hand corner. Nothing needs to be taken apart for this. Clean the pin ends, the mating/contact surface and make sure the pins move in and out freely. It should be about a 2-minute job.

I got the pins cleaned and put some dielectric grease on them and the actuator worked but when I connected it too the door lock it didn't have enough juice to move the arm. Then it started working intermittently when not under stress. Looks like it is the actuator. I'm going to try and get it apart to see what it looks like inside.

 

[ak diesel driver]

try some anti ox the dielectric grease can actually hurt electrical flow

 

[steelydan]

I bought 4 actuators for my Sub from amazon.com...they were $35.00 each.
Dorman brand I believe...The rear door actuator is the same as the passenger doors...I did take one apart and clean the inside and re-assemble one but it only lasted a few months.

 

[Rodd]

I bought 4 actuators for my Sub from amazon.com...they were $35.00 each.
Dorman brand I believe...The rear door actuator is the same as the passenger doors...I did take one apart and clean the inside and re-assemble one but it only lasted a few months.

Thanks for the info. I talked to a friend of mine who is an electrician who builds wind turbines. He said the little motor I have is very similar to the big turbines his company builds. He said that if it works but not under load it isn't getting enough voltage or the lock mechanism needs to be wd40'd real good because it may be causing the problem.