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Balance Pulley: Replace? (pic)

Big T

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Fullerton, CA
Here's what my balance pulley looks like:

IMG_0842.jpg

IMG_0841.jpg


Should I replace it or reuse it?

Here's a shot of the timing gears, timing cover and HB (to be removed tomorrow):

IMG_0839.jpg
 
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That one looks ok but if you could make it a little bigger we might be able to see it better.

LOL. Sorry, first time uploading to and using the album here. Normally would use photobucket, but I'm having troubled resetting my password there.
 
If you replace it, buy a quality part. You would probably be better off to keep what you have than to buy the cheapest thing autozone has.
 
How are the Dorman HBs and Pulleys that are sold by RockAuto?

BTW those linked threads are excellent and answer virtually every question I have. One question is whether I have to pull the t-stat housing to access the IP bolts? The other question is whether I'll have to time it?

I'll pull the HB and timing cover tomorrow to get a look see at the timing chaing to determine if I need a new one. Then I'll order up parts. Probably be down for a few days.

Steve
 
whats the reason why that rubber is there? any reason you couldnt just use a solid pulley?

The bigger diesel power pulse & associated tortional vibration. Don't know if it was to help accessory life, or noise/vibration, or maybe both. Regardless, the 6.2's w/ the regular v-belts & w/o the pulley damper really jumped with the engine idling.
 
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It is far easier to pull the crossover. Opens things up a bunch. But with patience, and perseverance, I bet you can get them off with it on. The crossover gaskets in mine were SHOT, so it may not hurt to remove it to check those.

On the timing, make sure to mark the IP, and the timing cover to get things put back where they belong.
 
It is far easier to pull the crossover. Opens things up a bunch. But with patience, and perseverance, I bet you can get them off with it on. The crossover gaskets in mine were SHOT, so it may not hurt to remove it to check those.

On the timing, make sure to mark the IP, and the timing cover to get things put back where they belong.

I'm into this cooling mod for three reasons:

1) I had a slight leak from somewhere on the driver's side of the water pump. It could have been coming from the crossover where it attaches to the head on the driver's side.

2) Seeking improved cooling performance as I do a lot of towing up and down grades. I was not happy with the temps I was seeing in August and September going up the local mountain w/o towing.

3) The pump has 100+K miles on it and the timing chain is original. Just time to go through stuff.

The rad, coolers and A/C condensor were all cleaned with scrubbing bubbles and pressure washed. I'll be looking to replace hoses and clamps in addition to the timing chain, HB and pulley. Already replaced the idler tension pulley. Like I said, just sprucing the old girl up for the next 160K miles.

IMG_0454.jpg


Steve
 
How are the Dorman HBs and Pulleys that are sold by RockAuto?

BTW those linked threads are excellent and answer virtually every question I have. One question is whether I have to pull the t-stat housing to access the IP bolts? The other question is whether I'll have to time it?

I'll pull the HB and timing cover tomorrow to get a look see at the timing chaing to determine if I need a new one. Then I'll order up parts. Probably be down for a few days.

Steve

Peninsular's website lists new "take offs" for both the pulley damper & dual stat crossover housing. The pulley lists a GM part # and was $65. Guess you'd be getting the pulley at least from who GM chose to source it from.
 
The rubber on your pulley is getting badly checked. I would toss in a fresh one.

The rubber damps out the power pulses and stops a lot of noise a bad vibes from getting to the belt system and the accessories.

The old 6.2 rigs with V belts used to have the long reach belt to the AC pump whip so bad that the factory isntalled a stainless steel protector under the top radiator hose where the belt passed to keep the belt from sawing a hole in the hose (NO FOOLING)

The belt would just "Thrummmmmmmm" at just off idle (about 1000 or so RPM)

The damped pulley stops all that crap.

The lower pulley had the bearing in the center to keep everything centered and the rubber does the driving.

If you look you can see the notches in the core and the little tabs on the arms that support the rim.

If the ruber gives way the stops will bang hard on the notches.

This will make enough noise to wake the dead and can lead to crank failure.

REPLACE the pulley.

Missy
 
Since you already got it off and do not plan on going back in for a long time. I say replace it. :thumbsup:
 
HB Photos

OK here's the pics of the HB:

IMG_0844.jpg

IMG_0845.jpg


Should I replace it?

Making progress. Thanks for all the input so far.

Steve
 
Timing Chain Play

OK I'm now at the stage of pulling off the timing chain. JiFaire requested that I take some photos measuring the play in the chain. I hope these capture it:

IMG_7467.jpg


IMG_7466.jpg


No need to be precise here. I'm seeing about 3/8" of play there. Truck has 158.5K miles on it.

I must comment that I have never been this far into any diesel engine and I felt alot of apprehension. I even woke up in the middle of the night thinking about this project. That said, the apprehension has been dissipating as I feel like I have a virtual sunshine team looking over my shoulder so I don't screw this up. I am indebted to all those who've helped with suggestions here.

Steve
 
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