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Aw crap, recir motor!

OK, what's the secret?

I can get the lower screw out fine, but the upper is a biotch!

I can get the socket on, but there's not enough room to get a ratchet (or even T-handle) on it....


Grrrrrr.......

What the hell were they thinking when they built this?!?!?

I'm scared to think what the Mitchell manual would quote for this relatively simple job.....two screws and a connector.

Gotta be at least a 1.5 hr quote......
 
Great White said:
What the hell were they thinking when they built this?!?!?
Click to expand...

They were thinking:

"Hahahahaha... someday, some DIY guy is gonna try and undo this without removing the dash... "
 
bison said:
What are you trying to remove?
Click to expand...

Recirc door motor

JiFaire said:
They were thinking:

"Hahahahaha... someday, some DIY guy is gonna try and undo this without removing the dash... "
Click to expand...

Rotating the dash wouldn't help. You'd have to pull out the whole HVAC unit.

Actually, they were probably thinking "this will be a great money maker in flat rate shops"....
 
some very sore fingers and 1 very cramped old arthritic hand later, it's out.

I just dropped the recirc door into "outside" and left it for now.

Considering how much of a PITA that motor is (and that I never use recirc or max AC) I may just leave the fugger sitting on the floor....
 
So, actuator is out. Sure enough, it's dead.

Crack it open and I find a small PCB, small motor and a buch of reduction gears.

A closer look reveals what looks like a 1 watt 62 ohm resistor that is discolored slightly.

I turn the board over and look at the circuit trace.

Yup, burn/heat marks on either side of the resistor.

I think I'll order a couple resistors and see if I can get this little sucker working again.

Couple bucks for a fist full of resistors or what is probably a hundred bucks for an actuator.....

It's worth a try.

:)
 
great white said:
Recirc door motor



Rotating the dash wouldn't help. You'd have to pull out the whole HVAC unit.

Actually, they were probably thinking "this will be a great money maker in flat rate shops"....
Click to expand...
Yeah,as usual the General doesn't have the veh owners economie in mind when he designs these things.
 
Got the same issue, but, I would rather the door stay in rec no matter what anyway. Thanks for posting what is causing it.
 
great white said:
Recirc causes severe fogging issues here so it's gotta be fixed...
Click to expand...

Yep, in the wintertime, it picks up the high humidity from the inside and sprays it on the cold windshield... not good when you gotta use a scraper on the inside while you drive...

Need that low-humidity outside air to make the defoggers work.
 
can you put it on what you want and just cut the wire or put a switch inline? cause mine makes annoying clicking noises at start up, it spins good both directions but it doesnt know when to stop.
 
I just finished replacing the recirculation air door actuator on my 95 Suburban. It has the issue where the back upper screw is almost impossible to get out and impossible to get back in. I figured out a trick. If you slot the plastic tab for that back upper screw you can start the screw a good amount easily and then slide the actuator in get and get a 1/4" small socket and ratchet on it to tighten, the front screw is easy. If you pull out the harness bundle behind the glove box you can get your right hand in to help while working the wrenches/etc. with your left hand. You can get finger tips to meet from right and left hands. To get so you can spin small sockets with your finger tips, wrap tape with sticky side out on the socket. Mine is now in and working and didn't have to remove the dash.
 
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