ARP headstud torque specs?

[6.5coalroller]

Anyone know the torque specs for arp head studs? The paper I got with them when I bought them got lost. Also what kinda silicone do I need to use to seal them in the block?

 

[bk95td]

I'm hoping I can get this to work. I scanned the only direction sheet I could find from the 2 sets I've installed in the last year.

 

[6.5coalroller]

thanks thats wut I needed

 

[bk95td]

I used the ARP thread lube and ARP thread sealant on both engines. I figured it was best to use the recomended products.

 

[Anubis]

so if using lock tight, is that in place of or in addition to ARP thread lube and thread sealant?

 

[midniteplowboyy]

Get some Permatex high temp thread sealer if you dont have the ARP sealer.

 

[bk95td]

You need to seal the threads going into the block. The threads that the nuts go on to need the lube. I wouldn't locktite them in case they need to be removed some day.

 

[Franko914]

You need to seal the threads going into the block. The threads that the nuts go on to need the lube. I wouldn't locktite them in case they need to be removed some day.

Hello bk95td,

Not even with Blue (medium strength) threadlock?

Regards,
Franko

 

[bk95td]

The hex socket that's in the end if the stud is pretty small,like 3/16 or 1/4. I would think it would round the allen wrench trying to get them out. I don't really think it neccessary to locktite them if arp doesn't require it. They are tightened into the block and sealed. The nuts on top aren't locktited so if coming loose was a concern the nuts would loosen too. I tend to think about how hard it'll be taking it apart next time.[I anti-sieze almost every bolt]

 

[Franko914]

The hex socket that's in the end if the stud is pretty small,like 3/16 or 1/4. I would think it would round the allen wrench trying to get them out. I don't really think it neccessary to locktite them if arp doesn't require it. They are tightened into the block and sealed. The nuts on top aren't locktited so if coming loose was a concern the nuts would loosen too. I tend to think about how hard it'll be taking it apart next time.[I anti-sieze almost every bolt]

Hello bk95td,

I was referring to the nuts for applying the Blue threadlock after they were torqued down. The nuts would loosen before the studs would in the block because the nuts have less thread surface contact with the studs than the studs have with the block. Yes, I'm a big fan of anti-seize paste. Thanks!

Regards,
Franko

 

[bk95td]

The ARP moly lube is like a light grease. I don't see how the locktite would seep past it.

 

[uniquediesel]

Head studs leak, probably.

Be carefull with the ARP studs.

These are leaking bastards, seriously.

The ARP sealant is a joke, doesn't do the job long-term, you'll get one or a few start leaking. If you run head studs you want to check your CDR breather for goo frequently as that will be where your water contaminate will show up first (along with a rising oil level).

I can't speak for using the loctite on the threads that are in the water jacket. An engine builder that goes by Schoolcraft Engines does this, I haven't heard whether it worked long-term or not.

I'd be enclined to try just some really good RTV. I'm planning on doing this on the next couple of engines.

Just about everyone I've talked to that builds engines where the bolts are not in blind holes fights this problem.

You still need the Moly lube for the top threads for the nuts though. Use the same sealant you end up using under the washers too.

When these things start leaking, the coolant actually comes up through the fine threads up top too.

 

[midniteplowboyy]

I've had good luck with the Permatex high temp thread sealant, never tried the ARP sealant.