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Anyone ever worked on a Buick Rendezvous?

Dieseldad97

I now know why.
Messages
2,269
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35
Location
Altona, Manitoba Canada
I need to replace the thermostat and after 2 hours I gave up and put it back together so I could tackle it when I had more time.

If you've done a R&R on a Rendezvous I'd sure like to talk to you!

Thanks!
 
From Google:

I had to pay a dealership $450 to change the thermostat on the 3.4L engine. You have to remove the crossover exhaust manifold. Once that is out of the way, the thermostat itself is easy. Before the manifold is removed, I could only touch one of the two bolts holding the thermostat housing in place, much less get a wrench on it.
 
Yeah James I saw that too. My question is regarding the quick disconnect of the pipe that runs on top of the manifold. I guess a person who has actually done this would be able to answer all my dumb questions.

I know 1 thing though. I've NEVER seen a thermostat hidden so well before. I can't believe GM would build it this way.
Thanks for helping.
 
Gotcha. Well here's the actual Procedure out of the Buick FSM:

Thermostat Replacement LA1
Tools Required
J 38185 Hose Clamp Pliers (maybe this is what you need to get the Quick Disconnect Off?)


-Removal Procedure

-Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.4L

-Drain the coolant until the coolant level is below the thermostat. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System .

-Remove the crossover exhaust pipe. Refer to Exhaust Crossover Pipe Replacement in Engine Exhaust.

-Remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing.

-Remove the thermostat housing bolts and clean any sealer from the bolt threads.

-Remove the thermostat housing and gasket.

-Remove the thermostat.

-Clean the mating surfaces.

nstallation Procedure

-Install the thermostat.
-Install the thermostat housing and gasket.


Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Install the radiator hose to the thermostat housing.

Install the crossover exhaust pipe. Refer to Exhaust Crossover Pipe Replacement in Engine Exhaust.

Install the air cleaner and duct assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.4L.

Fill the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System .



Exhaust Crossover Pipe Replacement LA1
Removal Procedure
Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
Drain the coolant from the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System in Engine Cooling.
Remove the inlet radiator hose from the engine. Refer to Radiator Hose Replacement - Inlet in Engine Cooling.
Remove the thermostat bypass pipe. Refer to Thermostat Bypass Pipes Replacement in Engine Cooling.



Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts.
Remove the exhaust crossover heat shield.



Remove the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts.
Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
Installation Procedure




Install the exhaust crossover pipe.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts. Tighten
Tighten the exhaust crossover pipe studs/nuts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).





Install the exhaust crossover heat shield.
Install the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts. Tighten
Tighten the exhaust crossover heat shield bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

Install the thermostat bypass pipe. Refer to Thermostat Bypass Pipes Replacement in Engine Cooling.
Install the inlet radiator hose to the engine. Refer to Radiator Hose Replacement - Inlet in Engine Cooling.
Fill the cooling system with engine coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System in Engine Cooling.
Install the throttle body air inlet duct.
Connect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
 
I did mine in abot 5 minutes. :popcorn: Maybe pull the cab off?

:penguin2

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
 
You buggers.

You have no idea the engineers design things like they do untill you have to fix them. I'm not giving up here guys. I gotta work the next few days, but I hope to get er fixed by the weekend. It's Bloody cold out here these days.

I did my trucks t-stat's last winter...took less than an hour. It's a shame newer vehicles are built without keeping the do-it-yourselfer in mind.
 
Hell, they dont keep anyone in mind. The last thing the engineers care about is anyone other than themselves. Somebody has to fix it eventually, either you or someone you pay.
 
I remember reading something a couple years ago about one of the Ford F series where you had to actually take the cab off the frame to do some kind of repair/maintenance on the engine.

Power steering on my impala is impossible to check without taking the coolant reservoir off first. Helps to have a cold engine too since your arm is reaching down behind the engine. Had to buy a new funnel with about a 2 foot long reach to add any if the level gets low.
 
You may as well do the intake gaskets, it will need them eventually, and the t-stat is super easy with the manifold on a bench:D
 
Hell, they dont keep anyone in mind. The last thing the engineers care about is anyone other than themselves. Somebody has to fix it eventually, either you or someone you pay.
I'm a design engineer (mechanical). I was a gearhead long before that. When I design a machine or a retrofit to an existing machine, how to install and repair it is my FIRST consideration. I'm asked to critique other guys designs all the time. That is how I approach it as well. That attitude carries on to other engineers. There are more of us than you might imagine...
Having said that, the automotive guys are stuck with what 'envelope' they are given and no, they don't work the same way industrial guys like me do. The old line guys do but that is kind of a lost art.
Not really a rant, just wanted to say my piece. Had alot of old farmers tell me I'm pretty good for one-a-them engineers...):h
 
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