• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Alternator Wires & Diagram

mfgguru

mfgguru

Makin' it better!
Messages
359
Reaction score
7
Location
Winkler, MB, Canada
Greetings all,

It's been a while since I've posted a thread, been very busy with my swap and will share it all when I am done. I hit a snag in my progress, and for the life of me, can't seem to figure it out. I started the truck and have no tach, or volt gauge activity, and no charging. I have retained the chev. alt. I have 12v to the alt.(tan wire) but don't know what the others are. Colors are as follows: white/cream, red, green, black and one other color that escapes me. We tried 2 different alternators, so thats not the problem. Does anyone have or have access to a wiring diagram with all 5 wires on it and their entire circuits? I have only ever found one with 3 wires. I am open to suggestions as to a diagnosis. Does the alt wiring go to the PCM or straight to the guages? I need the tach signal to work in order for my TCU to work, not to mention a charge to keep the lights on the starter crankin! Thanks for now!

PS, I have been to some other forums, and they all suck in comparison to this one. You should all be very proud!:thumbsup:
 
Thanks guys, I have that diagram already. The colors and order of wires are mixed up, not to mention there are only 3 on the diagram instead of 5.
 
mfgguru said:
Thanks guys, I have that diagram already. The colors and order of wires are mixed up, not to mention there are only 3 on the diagram instead of 5.
Click to expand...

If you wire this wrong: say hit the "L" terminal with 12V without a resister or lamp functioning as both the warning light and the resister the regulator goes "Bang!" and releases the magic smoke.

Get the alternator tested at a local shop as you could have blown both regulators up.

This alt will not turn on if the battery is really low to keep it from burning up. A disconnected sense wire can trigger this protection mode. I would charge and test the battery just in case.

You could stop by a dealer and ask if they would let you look at a schematic for your truck.

The plug you have should be labeled with letters to match the schematic.

More general info: (but get specific info for your truck as different wiring was common).

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ONLINETECH/CS130DREG.html

http://asktherebuilder.com/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=180.0
 
WarWagon said:
If you wire this wrong: say hit the "L" terminal with 12V without a resister or lamp functioning as both the warning light and the resister the regulator goes "Bang!" and releases the magic smoke.

Get the alternator tested at a local shop as you could have blown both regulators up.

This alt will not turn on if the battery is really low to keep it from burning up. A disconnected sense wire can trigger this protection mode. I would charge and test the battery just in case.

You could stop by a dealer and ask if they would let you look at a schematic for your truck.

The plug you have should be labeled with letters to match the schematic.

More general info: (but get specific info for your truck as different wiring was common).

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ONLINETECH/CS130DREG.html

http://asktherebuilder.com/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=180.0
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links. I think I am on to a solution, but don't have a chance to diagnose untill the end of the day. I will post my findings.
 
Can you believe that GM figured it would be a good idea to put the alternater controls through the ECM? Well, if you can find the intermediat BS go to the source. I put my signal and tach wires from the alternator straight through to the cluster harness, and voila, tach and controlled charge. Once the we realized we could bypass all that other junk, it was quite simple, now I just need to calibrate the pulley ratios on the cummins to match the 6.5. Thanks for all the help.

Mike
 
No can't believe it. I thought GM did that much later; like 2005. Learn something new every day...

Why do it?
The ECM or BCM on newer stuff can boost voltage for a fuel pump or command 14.5v for headlight use. It can also kick out the Alt for improved fuel economy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top