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Alternator Pulley Removal?????

Big T

Big T

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Location
Fullerton, CA
Finally got my 170 amp AD-244 alternator from National Quick Start Sales. Despite my calling and instructing them to rig it with the pulley for the '99 6.5TD, they installed the smaller pulley. So now I'm faced with swapping pulleys and I cannot figure out how to remove them. I can get a socket on the nut, but cannot stop the shaft from spinning, even when installed with belt on. I can get a torx bit into the end of the shaft, but then I can't get a wrench on the 24mm nut. The new alternator has the same sized nut, but an allen hole in the end of the shaft.

Looking for some advice.
 
Are you using an impact wrench on the nut? In the past I have swapped pulleys by using an impact while keeping the shaft from turning by holding onto the cooling fan.
 
Grendahl said:
Are you using an impact wrench on the nut? In the past I have swapped pulleys by using an impact while keeping the shaft from turning by holding onto the cooling fan.
Click to expand...

No, but I do have an impact wrench. Does the nut spin off counter clockwise?
 
Grendahl said:
It should. If the threads stick out past the nut, you should be able to tell by eye which way the threads are.
Click to expand...

Got 'em both and swapped. THANKS! :thumbsup:

Could not use the impact wrench with alternator installed in place. However, the nut came off with my just holding the pulley.

Just need to charge the batteries to get it started, then I can do suggested tests on the mixer doors in the dash before I launch into removing the dash for the evaporator and heater core replacement. Pretty much on schedule.:thumbsup:
 
'before I launch into removing the dash for the evaporator and heater core replacement."

May the force be with you, never was my favourite job!
 
Chraged the batteries overnight and did the battery post mod this AM. Cranked up the truck and it took a bit, but finally fired. Everything checks out ok and the 170 amp alternator is registering 2 ticks above 14 on the voltmeter.

Next up, dash removal.:eek:
 
cHEAVYGUY said:
Big T any buyers remorse? I just ordered a cs144 250 amp double rectifier from same guys.
Click to expand...

Mine lasted 2 years. I'm now on. 130 amp from NAPA w! Lifetime warranty. Already replaced one under warrsnty. They all seem to last 2 years.
 
Big T said:
Mine lasted 2 years. I'm now on. 130 amp from NAPA w! Lifetime warranty. Already replaced one under warrsnty. They all seem to last 2 years.
Click to expand...
Thanks Big T for the quick response I'll keep the stock pulley on to prolong the lifespan. Running a big audio system and finally had enough messing with smaller alternators. Eventually will install 2 stock alts if this double rectifier alt doesn't last long. I will post pics when Im done.
 
They all seem to lose the rear bearing and then they fail. warWagon will tell you that he always has a spare with him.
 
Wowzer! I have like 140,000 miles ish on my original 1995 hummer's cs144. That suckers been underwater several times also. Some things just do best from factory.

On the rear bearing,mi know there's an outfit building them with bigger heatsinks in the back and upgraded bearings. Can't remember who, but think I saw the link on this forum... If not it was from looking up welder- alternators.
 
I run dual's so then don't work as hard as a single.

The GMT400 w/6.5 and serpentine belt rotates the cooling fan counter clockwise and the heat coming off the cooling stack in the passenger side is hotter than the drivers side of engine bay/bonnet, the generators/alternators pull air in from the back of their cases exiting out the front of the case which can cause excessive heat buildup inside the gen/alt and tripping the thermal breaker creating a no charge state.

There are few ways to eliminate the heat, venting fenders and sealing all the gaps around the radiator or using standalone blower with duct/hose to pull cold air and attached to back of gen/alt to allow the cooler air to be pulled into gen/alt case keeping the gen/alt cool even under the hottest conditions.

https://alternatorparts.com/remote-alternator-cooling-system.html
 
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THEFERMANATOR said:
My REMY AD244 from ADVANCE with lifetime warranty is now on 6 years and 70K miles, and still going strong.
Click to expand...

Yes I had a 170 amp Remy from Advance. It failed on me with the truck up at our second home in Big Bear. I had my son get a new reman from NAPA and he brought it up to me to bail me out. Otherwise, I was faced with shipping the failed alternator
back to Advance and waiting for the return of a replacement. That highlighted how impractical the lifetime warranty is on an alternator from Advance. The NAPA alternator has recently been replaced under warranty and that was a painless exercise. So I am on my third alternator in the 6 years and 60K miles that I've owned the truck. I guess on this component I've got the WarWagon syndrome?
 
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I got a AD244 Remy from AZ branded as Duralast with Remy label shipped from Remy Distribution Center, still doing fine.
It was installed in June 2013. Although, I don't drive that much except for long distance.
 
Big T said:
They all seem to lose the rear bearing and then they fail. warWagon will tell you that he always has a TESTED spare with him.
Click to expand...

Did you use an impact on the nut when putting it back on? You need to! Maybe you got the nut to tighten up enough w/o one, but, I wouldn't risk it myself.

Nothing like bolting on the spare in the middle of nowhere and it is a dud. Have not needed a CS144 spare. Last CS-144 alt I changed had life left, but, bearings were starting to go dry. (Lasted way longer than the CS130's did.) The reason I changed it was the tach flicking and that turned out to be the vehicle wire harness connector.
 
WarWagon said:
Did you use an impact on the nut when putting it back on? You need to! Maybe you got the nut to tighten up enough w/o one, but, I wouldn't risk it myself.

Nothing like bolting on the spare in the middle of nowhere and it is a dud. Have not needed a CS144 spare. Last CS-144 alt I changed had life left, but, bearings were starting to go dry. (Lasted way longer than the CS130's did.) The reason I changed it was the tach flicking and that turned out to be the vehicle wire harness connector.
Click to expand...

WarWagon, I too am at the point of carrying a spare. Maybe run a high output one from Advance and carry a spare from NAPA. The thought of paying the shipping costs to return a failed alternator to Advance and then waiting for the return one is just unpalatable. Changed or removed enough of these alternators such that it's like a 15 minute job.
 
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