• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Air vent blower runs while engine is off

juddspaintballs

my balls are painted!
Messages
146
Reaction score
0
Location
West by God Virginia
1999 6.5L Suburban with 271k miles.

Several times this summer and all the way up until now I've noticed that when I go outside to the garage, I can faintly hear the blower running in my Suburban. I've never noticed it before this summer. It's not constant but it does run for a while and air actually comes out of the vents, both front and rear. It doesn't matter what position the blower switches are on or what vent settings are set when the vehicle is shut down.

I didn't care about it until now because it wasn't draining the batteries. When I got up this morning, I noted that the fan was running. I wasn't driving the Suburban and let it be (like normal all summer long). When my wife went out to fire it up this evening to head to the store, the batteries didn't have enough juice to crank it fast enough to get it to fire. Batteries are old enough that they should be replaced, yes, but I drove the vehicle a lot yesterday and they haven't shown any signs of getting weak lately. I really think the blower drained the batteries enough to get them too low to crank. When I hooked up jumper cables to my Blazer and let it sit a few minutes running charging up the Suburban, the Suburban fired right up like normal.

All grounds have been cleaned up and made sure they're good when I did the injectors this summer. I'm leaning towards a bad relay that controls the blowers as being the culprit, but I figured I'd solicit some input before I started replacing my relays.
 
Could be more "normal" than you expect and your batteries simply died. (I still recall trying to push sulfated batteries in our 1988 6.2. They would die in a day. Not fun to try and jump start and reached a point it wouldn't start.) I would start with testing the batteries and seeing what % life the tester estimates is left in the batteries.

Look up after-blow modules. They run the blowers for like 10 seconds at a time to dry the evaporator and keep the AC from getting a foul smell. It could be software or a timer module that does this. You could have a sticking relay in combo with the after-blow module. How long is the blower(s) running for? They turn off with the key so I suspect this may be what is turning them back on.

Otherwise I have to agree on ign switch - control heads generally don't have power with the switch off. On the older stuff anyway.

Possible you have a short to power somewhere. Newer trucks (~2005) would short out the entire resistor pack that is always hot, powered. (Then they can go all Ford cruise switch bar-b-q on us. Or live up to the name of Blazer... :hihi: ) 1999's may have a hot module for the blower that doesn't get cut off with the key. I am guessing, but, giving you some ideas to check out.

:skep: So you put in a "new" made in Communist China switch that is 15 years cheaper than the OEM factory switch some time in the last year. Even the NEW GM factory ignition switches in brand new cars and trucks are known to be simply crap and get replaced often under warranty. New parts never mean good parts - always start troubleshooting over and never give any part, even new out of the box, a free pass.
 
Back
Top