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Air intake for MAF trucks.

That looks great, but how do you proposed to keep the hot engine bay air out of the intake?

Looks like it will flow much more than my homemade intake!!

Todd
 
Do you guys have any way to read intake air temps?

I think any air intake system these days is pretty much hype. Sure, I have one but its more of a free flowing filter more than anything else. Cruising around town, my temps are around 100 degrees. I get on it and they sky rocket to near 200 degrees. And this is a filter thats completely sealed off that sits inside a box and only draws air from the fender well and by the tire.

A true cold air intake would be more of a ram air type set up or something with a scoop. I saw somewhere a member with a 6.5 had a custom designed scoop for his with drilled fender vents that actually looked very good.
 
mmm, wait a minute guys, I must clarify : I realised I tell you this a CAI (see post #1).
In fact, I say that from my own. Leroy never pretends this is a CAI, I made the mistake and used wrong words. My bad!

Leroy, if you read the post, I apologize for that .

Sorry for misleading all of you...
 
Unit453 said:
Do you guys have any way to read intake air temps?

I think any air intake system these days is pretty much hype. Sure, I have one but its more of a free flowing filter more than anything else. Cruising around town, my temps are around 100 degrees. I get on it and they sky rocket to near 200 degrees. And this is a filter thats completely sealed off that sits inside a box and only draws air from the fender well and by the tire.

A true cold air intake would be more of a ram air type set up or something with a scoop. I saw somewhere a member with a 6.5 had a custom designed scoop for his with drilled fender vents that actually looked very good.
Click to expand...

Yes with scanner we can read IAT, and there is a difference, when using cold vs hot air,

Remember 6.5s have no IC unless you add it, or add WMI to aid in post compression cooling, most time unless it is a hot day 95+ or towing hard 10+ psi boost you can get by with underhood air.

The 6.5 defuels hard around 275F IAT and that limits you to about 50^3mm/1000 stokes max fuel delivery from the IP which sort of "limps" the truck until you turn key off and reset the limp mode, then truck runs hot as unknowing 6.5ers keep trying to pour max fuel via APP go pedal not good for longevity.

No code with the limp mode, you have to be looking at a scanner to see that limp fuel max rate has been set for the truck, seeing the 50mm where you would expect to see more.

Circle begins, turbo isn't getting fuel to make the boost you want, yet driver keeps asking for max fuel, engine struggles to pull load with "limped fuel rate" it can't and heat goes up, run this scenario often enough & things can go boom, sort of what gave the 6.5 it's bad rap.
 
I was told that removing that screen is worth a 15% increase in air flow. I know in vehicles I've owned in the past, I've always removed the screens.
 
Its some kind of air foil thats supposed to slow down the air flow through the tube. Its supposed to redirect the air flow into some kind of pattern to where it flows better or something. You can pop it out with a flat head screw driver. If you take it out, put it up to your mouth and blow through it and put your hand through the other side and you'll see just how much air its restricting.

I've taken it out of every vehicle I've had one in.
 
You wont get any CEL or anything. I did this to my 99 Tahoe that I had, my 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8 supercharged, 2000 Impala 3.8, and 94 Caprice 9C1 5.7 LT1. On every vehicle, there was a noticeable increase in throttle response. Its just another way for the factory to keep the power on tap.
 
Nah it's emissions crap, only 1500s and Kalifornia emissions LD2500s have them, best thing is to run a F chip or PCM even stock, emissions junk goes away, and your max fuel rate goes from 56^3mm/1000 to 63^3mm/1000 and some will hit 76mm if you get lucky.
 
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