Aftermarket engine blocks

[chevyinlinesix]

I have been looking long and hard, speaking with many places about engine blocks and am trying to locate a member here who has done this. I THINK it was Ratman, but IIRC, someone had a 6.5 engine block cast, and had the inner main cap bolt holes not drilled.

I am trying to find out who it was that did this, as I am currently trying to figure out the best route to go with my block. My main concerns are cylinder wall strength, deck thickness, and main web strength.

I have been playing around with different spots and amounts of block filler and extra steel on my 599 block, but am still concerned about splitting a cylinder wall open, or stripping out the head studs.

Can someone point me to the member who did this, or a company that casts the 6.5 blocks?

 

[bison]

I have been looking long and hard, speaking with many places about engine blocks and am trying to locate a member here who has done this. I THINK it was Ratman, but IIRC, someone had a 6.5 engine block cast, and had the inner main cap bolt holes not drilled.

I am trying to find out who it was that did this, as I am currently trying to figure out the best route to go with my block. My main concerns are cylinder wall strength, deck thickness, and main web strength.

I have been playing around with different spots and amounts of block filler and extra steel on my 599 block, but am still concerned about splitting a cylinder wall open, or stripping out the head studs.

Can someone point me to the member who did this, or a company that casts the 6.5 blocks?

Bottom of my sig

 

[buddy]

Have you considered a 6.2L or bored over 6.2L to 6.35L like diesel depot does?

I think the 96 block, was it 929 or something like that has 10mm main bolts instead of 12mm to prevent cracking, and no oil squirters

 

[chevyinlinesix]

I have considered those, but I doubt they will hold enough horsepower either. The 599 is supposed to have the thicker cylinder walls ect. but I am doubting it's ability to hold so much horsepower in.

Bolt hole sizes don't matter too much to me, I'm getting either a one piece cast or billet main cap setup which will hold the new crankshaft, rods, and pistons in.

I'm trying to avoid going the billet block route right now.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

The 929 Block is an early 6.5 with 12MM outer bolts and no squirts

The aftermarket blocks that places like clearwater sell are good blocks.

I would not hesitate to use one in a build.

I would (If it were for me) likely machine the outer bolt holes and install the Lock and stitch inserts before I did anything with it though.

The 599 Block was the late 6.2 and early 6.5 block.

These were all cored the same and could be bore either 6.2 or 6.5

The 599 had 12MM outer bolts and no squirts.
The 599 is overall a good block.

Any 6.5 block (other than current AMG/GEP Production) can see cracks on the main web bolts of the center 3

The worst of the lot was the early 506 block of 97 vintage that had 12MM outer bolts and the large squirt holes.

The engine that failed in my DaHooooley was a 97 crate engine of that era.
The mainline failed in number 4 main saddle and cracked across the bore (front to back) and then up into #6 and #8 cylinder hitting water in #6

The 599 is a great choice as is the 929
Even small cracks in the outer bolt holes in not an issue as long as the cracks are not outside the depth of the hole.

Installing the Lock and Stitch inserts will effect a nice and durable repair that will allow the block to be quite durable for many K miles.

Stay away from any 506 blocks. The late 506"s would not only crack the outer main bolt holes even with the 10mm bolts but would also crack the #8 cylinder near the top at the rear.

some early 506 Blocks had 10MM outer bolts but no squirts.
If sound these could be OK.

Any 6.5 block needs to be completely debured in the lower end (all sharp corners broken and smoothed as well as all holes chamfered slightly to remove all stress risers.

All main bores need to be debured and smoothed so the edges of the bores have a
1/64th chamfer on the edges.

Chamfer all main bolt holes with a countersink lightly ( 1/32")

Make sure that there are no sharp edges in the bottom of the cylinders too.

A sharp nick in a cylinder wall can lead to a crack starting.

Any other questions please ask


MGW

 

[davo727]

Bottom of my sig

So how did you end up with that ( New) block with no outer holes? Where did it come from?

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Where did it come from?

Special order?......:smile5:

 

[mattthebrat]

Have you considered a 6.2L or bored over 6.2L to 6.35L like diesel depot does?

I believe that heaths land speed racer is based off of a 660 6.2 block.

 

[bison]

Talking to the right people can get you almost anything

These blocks are well made,and perfect for splayed mains or a solid 1 piece bottom end.

Anybody want one? PM me