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Aftermarket cd/mp3 stereo for chevy silverado -94?

B

Bushido

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Hey guys!

As much as I love listening to the engine sound and turbo whistle on my truck, I enjoy good music as well. And I know nothing better than relaxing in my truck on those long drives, eating up the miles at a steady pace while listening to my favorite tunes on a high quality audio setup. However, my truck is currently equipped with an original tape casette stereo/radio which doesn't do me much good. I need something slightly more modern to go with my road trips... Hence my question: Are there any aftermarket CD/mp3 players that will fit straight into my truck and can be operated from the original control panel (the one on your right from the driver's point of view, the one that controls the A/C, fan and stereo etc)? This isn't really necessary at all I admit, I could just go with any quality player and install it. I just thought it would be cool if I could operate it from the original control panel as it is quite far to reach if you want to change tune or adjust the volume etc if the stereo is to be mounted in the original slot :rolleyes5: :D

So, any tips? :)

Regards,
Anton.
 
Hi Anton, it is possible to fix this quite easy: http://www.myinstallkit.com/GMC/1993 (93) GMC Suburban Radio - Stereo Installation Kit.htm
And a replacement for the tuner unit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-GMC-CHEVY-PICKUP-TRUCK-POCKET-RADIO-DASH-KIT-333-/110717146292
$(KGrHqJHJE!E88,mLmD4BP,ObmFCsQ~~60_12.jpg3154.jpg

You may find both parts on ebay also, i did this swap, and reused the original amplifier under the drivers seat, i have the shematics for the amp if you need it.
Dont think you will find any stereo that fits in the dash where the original was installed, get a single din with remote :)

Børge
 
Suburbank2500 said:
Hi Anton, it is possible to fix this quite easy: http://www.myinstallkit.com/GMC/1993 (93) GMC Suburban Radio - Stereo Installation Kit.htm
And a replacement for the tuner unit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-GMC-CHEVY-PICKUP-TRUCK-POCKET-RADIO-DASH-KIT-333-/110717146292
View attachment 34106View attachment 34105

You may find both parts on ebay also, i did this swap, and reused the original amplifier under the drivers seat, i have the shematics for the amp if you need it.
Dont think you will find any stereo that fits in the dash where the original was installed, get a single din with remote :)

Børge
Click to expand...

Hi!

Thanks very much for the info! So what you're sying is that I should replace both the stereo and the control panel, get a separate control unit for the new stereo and mount it where the original control panel used to sit? Doesn't that mean I lose the controls for the fan unit and all that as well? Or perhaps I'm misunderstanding something?

I may very well go ahead end get myself a modern stereo with remote instead of caring about the control panel, just thought it would be kinda cool if I could operate the new stereo just like the old one :)

Thanks mate!
Cheers
 
Hi Anton

1: You replace the radio unit with the Pocket from Ebay
2: You remove the equalizer\cassette deck, and panel. And replace it with the panel i posted.
There is also a tuner unit in the dash that can be removed.
3: install a new radio\mount frame where the cassette player\eqalizer was..
4: connect the new radio to the amplifier under the seat if you want to, its easier than laying new cables, the connector is in the dash at the tuner unit.
 

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Suburbank2500 said:
Hi Anton

1: You replace the radio unit with the Pocket from Ebay
2: You remove the equalizer\cassette deck, and panel. And replace it with the panel i posted.
There is also a tuner unit in the dash that can be removed.
3: install a new radio\mount frame where the cassette player\eqalizer was..
4: connect the new radio to the amplifier under the seat if you want to, its easier than laying new cables, the connector is in the dash at the tuner unit.
Click to expand...

Hi!

Aha, now I get it. Thanks very much for clarifying! So there is no way of getting the original control panel to control a modern stereo? Adjusting volume and changing track I mean.
Do you know what kind of stats the original amp has? I probably will lay down some new cables anyhow as I'm pretty sure my six channel amp (planning on going for the full package, woofers, 6*9" etc. Not because I enjoy playing stupidly loud or bass heavy music, but because I enjoy hearing all the elements of my music in high quality) will be better, but still might be fun to know :)
 
I have a 94, just like yours, and have had the dash completely apart. From your questions I'm guessing you have not had the dash apart far enough to get to the radio. Here's how to remove the radio. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures when I was taking my dash apart, although this part is easy to replicate and take pics if needed..

You need to set in the drivers seat and look at the dash pod that juts up from the main dash unit. The steering wheel needs to be tilted all the way to the bottom position, and if your pickup has an automatic transmission the auto shift lever needs to be all the way down in the low gear position.

Look at the dash bezel that surrounds the gauges, light switches, heater controls, and radio. There are four torx head screws, one in each corner of the bezel, that need to be removed. There are also three hidden spring tabs across the top of the bezel. These tabs are held in their sockets just with friction from the springs. Once the screws are removed the bezel can be gently pulled forward, while pulling the tabs out of their sockets. Be careful as these tabs can be easily broken, requiring replacement of the bezel.

The light switches to the left of the gauges stay in the bezel and will need to have the wiring connectors removed to finish getting the bezel completely out of the way. The radio and heater controls stay in the frame of the dash.

At this point the radio can be removed. If my memory is correct the heater controls need to have the mounting screws removed and the control hanging loose before the radio mounting screws can all be accessed. What you see as the radio is actually only a part of the radio. The rest is a metal box inside the dash, behind and below this location.

Your original radio control unit that is in the dash just above the heater controls will be removed, without affecting the heater controls. This will leave an empty spot in the dash panel above the heater controls. The e-bay link provided shows a pocket that will be installed in the dash in place of the radio.

Then, the first link shows a radio install kit that allows you to put a new stereo radio in the dash, to the right of the dash pod, in place of the cassette tape player. This portion of the dash around the cassette player just pops out.

Open the glove box and look at the left end of the lid hinge. The dash panel to the left of the glove box lid is held in by two spring tabs on the lower edge and two plastic tabs on the top edge. There is a small opening in this panel next to the lid hinge. Carefully insert a flat blade screwdriver in the opening and gently pry out. This will pop out the first spring tab. Then get your fingers under this part of the panel and gently pull out to get the second spring tab loose. At this point lift the panel out and down to pull the upper tabs out.

The cassette is held in with some hex head screws. At this point you will need to follow directions for your replacement stereo unit for the install.

Don
 
handcannon said:
I have a 94, just like yours, and have had the dash completely apart. From your questions I'm guessing you have not had the dash apart far enough to get to the radio. Here's how to remove the radio. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures when I was taking my dash apart, although this part is easy to replicate and take pics if needed..

You need to set in the drivers seat and look at the dash pod that juts up from the main dash unit. The steering wheel needs to be tilted all the way to the bottom position, and if your pickup has an automatic transmission the auto shift lever needs to be all the way down in the low gear position.

Look at the dash bezel that surrounds the gauges, light switches, heater controls, and radio. There are four torx head screws, one in each corner of the bezel, that need to be removed. There are also three hidden spring tabs across the top of the bezel. These tabs are held in their sockets just with friction from the springs. Once the screws are removed the bezel can be gently pulled forward, while pulling the tabs out of their sockets. Be careful as these tabs can be easily broken, requiring replacement of the bezel.

The light switches to the left of the gauges stay in the bezel and will need to have the wiring connectors removed to finish getting the bezel completely out of the way. The radio and heater controls stay in the frame of the dash.

At this point the radio can be removed. If my memory is correct the heater controls need to have the mounting screws removed and the control hanging loose before the radio mounting screws can all be accessed. What you see as the radio is actually only a part of the radio. The rest is a metal box inside the dash, behind and below this location.

Your original radio control unit that is in the dash just above the heater controls will be removed, without affecting the heater controls. This will leave an empty spot in the dash panel above the heater controls. The e-bay link provided shows a pocket that will be installed in the dash in place of the radio.

Then, the first link shows a radio install kit that allows you to put a new stereo radio in the dash, to the right of the dash pod, in place of the cassette tape player. This portion of the dash around the cassette player just pops out.

Open the glove box and look at the left end of the lid hinge. The dash panel to the left of the glove box lid is held in by two spring tabs on the lower edge and two plastic tabs on the top edge. There is a small opening in this panel next to the lid hinge. Carefully insert a flat blade screwdriver in the opening and gently pry out. This will pop out the first spring tab. Then get your fingers under this part of the panel and gently pull out to get the second spring tab loose. At this point lift the panel out and down to pull the upper tabs out.

The cassette is held in with some hex head screws. At this point you will need to follow directions for your replacement stereo unit for the install.

Don
Click to expand...

Thanks very much for the detailed descirption of the procedure! Helps to know what order to do stuff in! Thanks very much! :)
 
That storage pocket also makes a handy spot for a pair of gauges. Depending on the size of whatever remote your new stereo comes with, it may still fit in there along with the gauges. The one for my Pioneer head unit fits just fine in there. Be sure to get the storage pocket that has a "lip" around it (see below for part #'s), some of them are just flat at the bottom and anything you put in there will slide right out when you step on the loud pedal.

Here's the setup in my '94 extended cab...

rh94_44s.jpg


Behind the scenes:

rh94_43s.jpg


rh94_42s.jpg


As far as kit quality, I strongly suggest you search eBay/Amazon for AMI - American International - the dash kit is part # GMK-333, the storage pocket is GMP-333. Even the AMI dash kit takes a little bit of tweaking to make the A/C vents fit correctly, but overall, this is the best quality kit I've found. Do not under any circumstances even bother with Metra or Scosche which are the brands you'll most typically find locally.

Don't forget to get the wiring harness adapter and antenna adapter. Sometimes you can find all 4 items sold together for one price.

Richard
 
someotherguy said:
That storage pocket also makes a handy spot for a pair of gauges. Depending on the size of whatever remote your new stereo comes with, it may still fit in there along with the gauges. The one for my Pioneer head unit fits just fine in there. Be sure to get the storage pocket that has a "lip" around it (see below for part #'s), some of them are just flat at the bottom and anything you put in there will slide right out when you step on the loud pedal.

Here's the setup in my '94 extended cab...

rh94_44s.jpg


Behind the scenes:

rh94_43s.jpg


rh94_42s.jpg


As far as kit quality, I strongly suggest you search eBay/Amazon for AMI - American International - the dash kit is part # GMK-333, the storage pocket is GMP-333. Even the AMI dash kit takes a little bit of tweaking to make the A/C vents fit correctly, but overall, this is the best quality kit I've found. Do not under any circumstances even bother with Metra or Scosche which are the brands you'll most typically find locally.

Don't forget to get the wiring harness adapter and antenna adapter. Sometimes you can find all 4 items sold together for one price.

Richard
Click to expand...
That's severely cool! I might just copy that setup, if I may :D Oh, by the way. If I may go slightly off topic: Where do you get one of those turbo boost gauges, and how do you fit it? Can you get one to go with the stock turbo and get a reading on how much boost you're making, or is it strictly aftermarket turbo territory? Where does it get the "signal" from the turbo so to speak?

Thanks very much for the info! Very informative, I appreciate it! Good tip on the "lipped" storage compartment also! Would be annoying if the remote just went flying whenever you accelerate, the cab is kind of big with lots of places for a remote to hide... :D

Thanks very much man! :)

Cheers,
Anton.
 
The easiest way to get setup for a boost gauge is to get the "Boost Bolt" from PMDCable, a site vendor. It replaces one of the intake manifold bolts. Or you can drill and tap the intake. A 1/8" plastic hose then goes to the gauge.

Bushido said:
That's severely cool! I might just copy that setup, if I may :D Oh, by the way. If I may go slightly off topic: Where do you get one of those turbo boost gauges, and how do you fit it? Can you get one to go with the stock turbo and get a reading on how much boost you're making, or is it strictly aftermarket turbo territory? Where does it get the "signal" from the turbo so to speak?

Thanks very much for the info! Very informative, I appreciate it! Good tip on the "lipped" storage compartment also! Would be annoying if the remote just went flying whenever you accelerate, the cab is kind of big with lots of places for a remote to hide... :D

Thanks very much man! :)

Cheers,
Anton.
Click to expand...
 
Those are AutoMeter brand gauges, "Z Series", 2-1/16" size, which I picked because they had at least some similarity in appearance to the stock dash cluster (white lettering, black face, orange needles) - especially after I swapped my cluster out with one that still had nice bright orange needles instead of faded out yellow. :D

rh94_68s.jpg


Those with a sharp eye and 88-98 model knowledge will probably notice what else is special about this particular dash cluster. ;) And BTW, my '94 extended cab is a gasser, in case anybody was wondering about that.

Richard
 
Hmmm. Kinda close. But since you spend your time in a '96 you might not readily notice the main difference. ;)

It's not that big of a deal to get a tach cluster for the 92-94 models. However that cluster has a 6K tach instead of the regular gasser 5K tach, but the main difference is 110MPH speedo instead of 85MPH. That cluster is from a '93 454SS. :D

Richard
 
someotherguy said:
Hmmm. Kinda close. But since you spend your time in a '96 you might not readily notice the main difference. ;)

It's not that big of a deal to get a tach cluster for the 92-94 models. However that cluster has a 6K tach instead of the regular gasser 5K tach, but the main difference is 110MPH speedo instead of 85MPH. That cluster is from a '93 454SS. :D

Richard
Click to expand...

Wish i saw this before you posted lol, i cought it right away. Looked like way more digits on the speedo than normal. Same with Foxbody mustangs. All came with 85 mph speedos, some got 140 mph ones.
 
NVW said:
The easiest way to get setup for a boost gauge is to get the "Boost Bolt" from PMDCable, a site vendor. It replaces one of the intake manifold bolts. Or you can drill and tap the intake. A 1/8" plastic hose then goes to the gauge.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I'm gonna try to get a hold of one of those bolts I think, seems very handy and a bost gauge would be very neat! :)

Cheers
 
Try this site from eBay:

http://stores.ebay.com/1factoryradio

I just ordered a new refurbished AM/FM/Cassette head unit (also available as AM/FM/CD) (my '98 Suburban has the optional CD deck that mounts below the heater controls to go with the cassette player in the radio) from them to replace my bad unit. It has a 1/8" (3.5mm) stereo input jack with it so you can plug in your iPod/iPhone/mp3 player/satellite radio/DVD audio directly into its pre-amp section to hear it through your speakers. They didn't have it listed for cassette, just CD with RCA Line Out jacks, so I contacted them and I also had them install (for $30 more) two pairs of RCA Line Out jacks that are controlled by the fader and balance controls so I can hook up outboard amplifiers for a subwoofer and two more pairs of speakers. Contact them, because if it is not listed in their eBay store, they either have it and it's not listed, or they can make for you what you want. They basically have EVERYTHING GM radio-wise, and also a lot more makes and models from other manufacturers, PLUS, I get a $20 rebate for sending them back my old head unit to refurbish, and they include the return shipping label pre-paid.

The BIGGEST advantage to this set-up is that you retain a stock-appearing, factory original mount radio that requires no dash alterations that nobody would want to break in and steal, but you know it is stealth and able to be used with your iPod/mp3 and also possibly high-end amps and speakers, too!

This is the one I bought, they didn't have this listed until I contacted them last Friday, they posted it today. Mine is on the way right now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150870032375?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 
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