• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

A question before first start tomorrow.....

DieselSlug

DieselSlug

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,528
Reaction score
3,169
Location
Fabius, NY
Well tomorrow afternoon is going to be the first start. I hooked up battery power to it today and cycled the glows to make sure the controller was working. The glow light came on, i heard a click, but the light was only on for about 5 seconds, then clicked off. I did have power at the plug wire, but is only 5 seconds of glowing with bosch duraterms going to cut it? I could have swore my other glow controller on my old engine stayed on for 20 something seconds. This controller i installed is the one that came of the new engine. None of the glow wires were actually hooked to the plugs in this test...
 
I believe the glow time is controlled by the pcm. My gl4 gives me 10 secs. Make sure you prime the snot out of the oil system before you start it. Probably its most critical moment. Good Luck
 
I tired to prime it with a drill but the oil just spashes out the dummy dist. hole. So hopefully when i crank it without the glows for a while it will build pressure. It has the 97+ h/v oil pump in it. I kinda twisted one of the studs on the other relay a little, so i might have broken it. Thats why i put the other one in.
 
If your PCM has been unplugged for a while (like, if your batteries have been disconnected), your glow time will be shorter the first time or two until the thing re-teaches itself its job.

This, incidentally, is one of the 'but nobody told me that' side effects of disconnecting your batteries for a half hour to clear your codes. :D
 
JiFaire said:
If your PCM has been unplugged for a while (like, if your batteries have been disconnected), your glow time will be shorter the first time or two until the thing re-teaches itself its job.

This, incidentally, is one of the 'but nobody told me that' side effects of disconnecting your batteries for a half hour to clear your codes. :D
Click to expand...

True for sure. I unhooked all batts to remove and clean / diagnose my ign module a week ago...

Needless to say I thought I made things worse when I tested it for the first time and glow cycle was all screwy .... Turned out fine.

DS, MGW has some excellent threads on bleeding the air out of the system which also primes engine at the same time. Good reads.

Good luck man, moment of truth. I know you'll feel so much better once that thing rattles on its own for a few seconds.
 
Yeah, those batt have been unhooked for 4 months:D. Going out to the store now to get the rest of my "supplies"
 
Once the batteries have been hooked up for a while and since you cycled the system once it will be fine after you prime things.

To do a real good oil system prime you need an old vacuum pump from a 6.2 with tghe Oil pump drive.

You cut, turn or grind the teeth off the pump drive gear.

Remove the top of the drive unit and weld a nut onto the shaft.

Now you can stick this thing down the hole and do a proper prime job.

The pump drive has a boss the fits into the bore where the cam shafts geared end is and this boss has a groove around it.

The groove alings with the lifter oil gallery and feeds oil to it.

Without this tool the oil will simply pour out the bore and back to the pan without filling anything much.

Spinning the thing with the glow plugs out will prime the fuel system as well as the oil system.

Once you have fuel mist coming from the glow holes, your set.

Run the Lift pump with the ign switched on and this will allow fuel to purge through the IP and when you go for the first start things wil go much faster.

Took only about 30 seconds of spinning the engine without the glow plugs to get fuel blowing out the glow holes.

Install the plugs, glow it and it should pop right off within a few seconds or cranking and sit and idle fine with minimal missing and smoke.

My DaHoooley started as though it had been run in and shut off the night before.

No missing smoking and anything other than normal running.

Getting the air purged out makes the task far easier for sure.


Missy
 
Pics of my home made oil primer. I used a oil pump drive. I used a hex screwdriver bit to weld to the shaft. I ground the gear off on a bench grinder. Took all of 10 minuites to make.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0176_1.JPG
    IMG_0176_1.JPG
    24.9 KB · Views: 77
  • IMG_0175_1.JPG
    IMG_0175_1.JPG
    46.5 KB · Views: 76
I need to caution you for next time you build an engine; a buddy of mine posts here from time to time, with a brand new mill/rebuild 1st fire sucked a rag into the open intake like on your turbo there, split the block when it went bang, you'd hate to see hard work go up in a instant for someting as simple as a filter you opted to leave off.

Oh a Dodge for a jump off vehicle ??? :eek: You couldn't find a real truck anywhere :D
 
Yeah, i know, i couldnt find my cone filter to just throw on there for a bit. Yeah Rich has told me that story, he has helped me a lot with this build. It was a freinds truck, needed something with some balls for a start. The volvo just wouldnt cut it...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top