A Coal Blower...Merry Xmas Me!

[Big T]

:nanawrench:So went and pulled my exhaust, downpipe and crossover on the '99.

Downpipe had sheared off at the exhaust, holes around weld for the pyrometer fitting:

While removing the old flange for the downpipe, the exhaust from the muffler back sheared off:

Crossover pipe came off easy and is in good condition.

Here's what the stock exhaust looks like just behind the connection flange to the downpipe:

They dented it to clear the rear A/C lines that run above the exhaust there. Is there a after market exhaust without the dent, but with the clearance? Or do I just have this section custom made?

I have a gutted soot trap in place, then it adapts up to 4" pipe into the the muffler. What brand exhaust system?

Need to get this ordered as I plan to put it back together next weekend.

Just another episode after buying a "clean truck" from the rust belt.:rolleyes5: I might as well order the stainless brake kit and get on that job this winter so it doesn't go out on me during the peak of fishing season. :shots:

 

[Ratman]

:nanawrench:So went and pulled my exhaust, downpipe and crossover on the '99.

Here's what the stock exhaust looks like just behind the connection flange to the downpipe:

They dented it to clear the rear A/C lines that run above the exhaust there. Is there a after market exhaust without the dent, but with the clearance? Or do I just have this section custom made?

Isn't that custom bent factory pipe a masterpiece of engineering? Wow...

I'm running a Diamond Eye kit on mine, -which uses a 3" downpipe into a 4" out the back.

I'm not sure if the kit will clear your A/C stuff though.

Just search Diamond Eye, -or maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Wow is right. What a joke man. How the hell can you let that go out the door like that?

I've extremely happy with my Diamond Eye Exhaust.

I painted it black with grille paint (high temp) and 1 1/2 years later it still looks perfect. Rusty clamps. Get one, you'll be happy.

 

[DennisG01]

Yup - can't believe what I saw when I took mine off, years ago. Make sure you can pass a golf ball through the crossover (it's a double wall and sometimes the inner pipe causes problems).

If I remember correctly, my 3" downpipe immediately steps up to 3.5" then 4" after the muffler. It was produced by Jardine.

I also have rear heat and AC - none of my pipes have any "dents" in them and there is no fitment problem or clearance issues. I honestly don't see a problem with just about any aftermarket companies exhaust working OK - there's plenty of room.

 

[Big T]

Well I finished installing the Diamond Eye Exhaust, which is 4" from the downpipe back. Downpipe was a bit tricky getting in. There is clearance between the 4" and the a/c lines which are insulation wrapped hose right above the pipe. I did not install my hollowed out soot trap as that will take some custom fab to fit it to 4" pipe. I have a year before it has to be smogged again.

I had an aftermarket crossover pipe in good condition. I drilled it for the pyrometer just below the flange on the driver's side. I then took it and the brass fitting to a shop to be brazed on. The muffler shop didn't have brazing capability and sent me to a radiator shop I've never been to before. Just a guy working on a car there. He asked me to leave the pipe and fitting and my contact information and he'd have the owner call me. I went back to work on the truck and had an appointment to sell a boat trailer. Once that was done, the guy had never called me, so I drove back to the shop and the SOB was closed by 1:45 pm on a Saturday. No hours listed. I left a not so pleasant voice message, as this guy cost me this weekend and pushed this work into next weekend because I'm in Missouri next week coming home Thursday night. I will pick it up Friday AM and take it elsewhere. What a POS.:Justwait2:

 

[WarWagon]

Pull the inner fender and put the pryo probe on the manifold. Would be done by now...

 

[Big T]

Pull the inner fender and put the pryo probe on the manifold. Would be done by now...

You drill the manifold?

 

[NVW]

There's a raised flat spot on the manifold just below the turbo

 

[Slim Shady]

I think you are going to find a lot more guts to your truck once the ATT can spool up. That exhaust is unbelievable, I have the Jardine and have been happy with it. Brother you are in for a surprise with that new exhaust. Maybe that fuel mileage might change slightly for the better.

 

[Big T]

The truck had an aftermarket downpipe and 4" muffler back. I did not realize it had the crushed stock section after the downpipe. I've been so focused on other parts of the truck that I had not checked out the exhaust. Maybe this was fortuitous?

 

[Big T]

There's a raised flat spot on the manifold just below the turbo

And what do you do with this raised flat spot?

 

[NVW]

Drill it and run a 1/8" npt tap for your pyro probe. before you drill through start the engine to blow out any filings.

 

[DennisG01]

I originally had my pyro in the downpipe. When I put the new engine in, I took advantage of having the manifolds off the truck to relocate the pyro to that flat spot. Obviously this was easy for me since the mani was out of the truck... but another way to do it is to goop up the drill bit and the tap with grease to collect the shavings. As you collect the shavings, stop every so often and remove the shavings and "re-goop".

There is a VERY noticeable difference in how quickly your gauge reacts to temps when comparing where the probe is mounted. The gauge reacts MUCH, MUCH faster when it's mounted in the mani. If you have the opportunity, I agree with the above that you should try to mount it there. In the long run, you'll be happier.

 

[vdb11]

Yes, agreed. It's also a very quick job too. I bought a crossover a while back with a hole already in it for a probe, but decided to do the manifold approach instead. Very happy with it. The hardest part is probably taking the inner fender off. I have had mine off several times so it was easy for me. Just the first time I did it I soaked the bolts in PB Blaster the best I could, then very slowly loosened them, stopping when they started to bind up and spray them again. I broke two anyways, one I was able to replace. Anyways once that is off, it is a very simple job. Just make sure you have all your bits (good sharp bits) ready to go beside you and have a pretty good idea of when you need to stop. I had a friend help me out who did it before. In my case I had to put the battery tray back in with one bolt inside the engine bay and prop it up on the frame and set my 2nd battery back in to get the truck started. Once started just start small and work your way up to the size you need for the tap. My friend did the drilling and I don't think it took us more than five minutes to get the hole drilled and tapped. It was just barely starting to get warm. He used some drilling fluid as well. Anyways good luck with the exhaust!