'99 No Start (videos)

[Big T]

Went out to start my '99 Suburban with the intention of driving it up to Big Bear Lake yesterday and no start. It would catch, then die. Last use was in my backyard a week ago to move a boat and just prior to that I used it to tow another boat down to San Diego for engines to be installed. No issues, no over heats.

Powermaster starter and batteries fully charged. Engine somewhat catches. Video of return line to IP and video of turbo. It's blowing white smoke. More concerning is white smoke coming out whee the down pipe attaches to the exhaust side of the turbo.

 

[Big T]

OK, I went back out and pulled the Fuel Filter from the FFM. Fuel in the FFM was low. I turned the ignition on and watched it fill to 3/4 full in a few seconds and turned the ignition off. It was full when I returned. Despite only 6K miles on the filter, I put in a new Wix filter. It started right up with a couple intermittent misses in the first 30 to 40 seconds. No white smoke and now it's running fine and no air bubbles in the clear return line to the IP. However, I don't think I really have my solution.

 

[Big T]

I think I may have found an issue. Took the truck to fill it up. I stuffed it full to the top of the fuel neck. Then I noted fuel pouring out from the top of the tank onto the cement. About two years ago I replaced the fuel sender with a new unit (yes the sock is on it). At the time I had cleared all this waxy stuff that was on top of the old sender unit, but did not replace it. Wondering if that is what’s causing the leak?

I drove it hard for a bit to burn off fuel and the leak has stopped.

 

[ak diesel driver]

My fuel filler neck rusted through on my 96

 

[Big T]

My fuel filler neck rusted through on my 96

This is a SoCal truck. I would have noticed a rusted fuel neck when I had it apart.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Might need to check the lines, The wax stuff is more to seal out corrosion than anything else, their should be a big o ring under the sender locking plate...

 

[Big T]

Might need to check the lines, The wax stuff is more to seal out corrosion than anything else, their should be a big o ring under the sender locking plate...

Will check on the lines when the tank gets drained.

Is there something I should do on the apparent leak on the exhaust side of the ATT?

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Depending on haw bad it is and where, I'm guessing the v-band, remove the band, separate the pieces a bit and clean as best as ya can, use the orange high temp silicone, smear it on the mating surfaces nice and thick, reassemble .....

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Looking at the video, seems it's the bolt on flange, might soak the bolts and remove and do the above and see if it seals up... and hope for the best with removing the bolts...

 

[Husker6.5]

Sounds like the tank leak is the seal between the tank and the sender. Had the same thing happen a couple of years after I replaced the bad in-tank sender/pump in my daughter's 02 Dakota four years ago. As for the post turbo exhaust leak, had the same thing happen when I put a 3" down on my 98 Burb. It's an alignment issue. Place a small floor jack under the down pipe just past the bend and bring it up to just touching the pipe. Loosen the V band clamp about a 1/4" and then slightly raise the jack while wiggling the down pipe slightly just past the turbo outlet flare, until it "seats" uniformly all the way around and put just a smidgen more of up pressure on the pipe with the jack to hold it in place then retighten the V band clamp. Fixed my exhaust leak. NOTE: Much easier to do this without the rest of the exhaust system attached to the down pipe, but still doable. I readjusted mine with the 4" system still attached.

 

[Husker6.5]

P.S. I stoped the exhaust leak without the used of RTV Orange, just proper alignment of the pipe flare and outlet flange.