97 k2500 suburban cutting out

[pitsingerk]

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I have a 97 K2500 Suburban, 4l80 trans, 6.5L. Injectors and glow plugs were changed approx. 3500 miles ago. Pmd is moved over to fender well w/ heat sink. On the way home last night the truck suddenly started loosing power like I was running out of fuel, barely made it home (at least I made it home). It was late so I left it to today. Changed the fuel filter, old one had maybe 10k miles on it, it was due anyhow. Looked good when I pulled it. Fired it up and let it warm up, didn't make it out of the driveway before it stalled. It started again, but started hard. Once running it sounded good, reved it up a few times, didn't cut out. Pulled back out the driveway and on to road, got on it and it cut out again but didn't stall this time. turned it around and got it back to the house. Reved it up a few times and sounds great. I need some advice as to where to go next. Going to get some fuel treatment, water remover, to put in it when I go to town.

 

[ak diesel driver]

try a diff pmd

 

[pitsingerk]

Put my spare pmd on last night, no change. Going to get a gauge and test lp next.

 

[buddy]

Definately sounds like it could be a bad LP, you can at least check to see if its pumping just by opening the drain valve while the engine is running and see if fuel flows out of it.

When it does die are all the dash lights, SES light and radio still on?

How old is your IP, or how many miles on it? What lubricity additive do you use and how often do you add it?

 

[JMJNet]

No need for gauges yet. As Buddy said, just open the t-valve and see if any fuel comes out or you are stalling.

Once you know there is fuel, then you can measure the pressure.

 

[pitsingerk]

I have a steady stream of fuel coming out the valve, doesn't seam like a lot of pressure, but there is fuel. Is it possible that the fuel pump is not running while going down the road, after the truck is running? Another thing that bothers me is the service engine soon light doesn't come on at all, not even when I turn the key on. Haven't got the gauge yet, going to pick it up later tonight. I went ahead and sprung for a new lift pump, should be here tomorrow. No clue how old the one on the truck is, 245k miles on it now, could be the original for all I know. If I do end up replacing the IP, then I know I have a good lift pump also.

 

[pitsingerk]

SES light is not coming on, radio still on, I was told the IP was rebuilt at approx. 140k, has 243k now. I add power service every 4th or 5th tank, and I tried 30W a a month or so ago.

 

[buddy]

If you checked for fuel flow out of the lift pump while it was idling it should be working while driving too. How did you check for the flow?

Low pressure could cause a cutout or low performance if the demand from acceleration is too great and a vacuum forms in the fuel line from the IP sucking it up.

Now, combine ULSD without lubrication every fillup (and Power Service previoulsy didnt test well for lubricty), low pressure from the LP, and 100k miles on the IP and you can easily have a worn out IP cutting your fuel.

 

[racer55]

If at any time you have lost the gauge cluster when it stalled(gauges all drop to zero-even fuel) you could have a bad ignition switch.

As for SES light check the lighter fuse in the fuse holder by the drivers door.I know it can affect the ALDL plug on some years made but may be related to the light also.

 

[jrsavoie]

Did you open the drain valve with the vehicle running as was recommended?

By your reply it sounds as though you may have had the lift pump jumpered.

Different results could indicate different solutions.. if it was pumping weakly, it still may be a good lift pump. You tank sock could be plugging up.
Did you order a lift pump for a 1993? They have better flow.

When you take the lift pump off remove the out line and hot wire the pump with a hose run to a container. Observe the flow. Run a fair amount out as sometimes the stuff that plugs your tank sock will fall away when the suction quits. And suck back to the sock when the pump starts running again. This is why a vehicle will run at start and then die but restart easily and die again.
That can also be the symptom of other completely unrelated problems. The only way to find out is to do some diagnostics.
After you have the pump off run some fuel from one container to another again observing the flow. If you have better flow going from container to container than you had sucking out of the tank, it's a good bet you have a plugged tank sock or a leak in your suction line.

Did you run with the fuel fill cap loose or off? After running the truck check for excessive suction when removing the fuel cap.

Sometime problems can indicate Injection pump problems and can be compensated for with a new Ip.
When in actuality there is another problem accentuated by a weak injection pump.

I have a steady stream of fuel coming out the valve, doesn't seam like a lot of pressure, but there is fuel. Is it possible that the fuel pump is not running while going down the road, after the truck is running? Another thing that bothers me is the service engine soon light doesn't come on at all, not even when I turn the key on. Haven't got the gauge yet, going to pick it up later tonight. I went ahead and sprung for a new lift pump, should be here tomorrow. No clue how old the one on the truck is, 245k miles on it now, could be the original for all I know. If I do end up replacing the IP, then I know I have a good lift pump also.

 

[buddy]

SES light is not coming on, radio still on, I was told the IP was rebuilt at approx. 140k, has 243k now. I add power service every 4th or 5th tank, and I tried 30W a a month or so ago.

When it stalls out, with the ign in the ON position, the SES light should be on. The SES light should be on anytime the ign is on and the engine is not running. If it is not then yes there is an ignition switch problem.

 

[NVW]

I would check the bulb first.

 

[pitsingerk]

changed out the lift pump today with the new one I ordered, truck runs fine now. As for the SES light, I will be tearing apart the dash to get to the bulb once the weather gets a little better here, even with the heater running today, it was still damn cold in the garage.

 

[pitsingerk]

I am going to start putting money away for a new IP pump. I called the local guys who rebuild pumps and they told me they do not rebuild these anymore, just supply new ones. They quoted me $1000.00 for it. I looked on Ebay and found a couple guys on there, has anyone here have a good source for a pump without breaking the bank.

 

[jrsavoie]

There was somebody on one of the forums scrapping out a 6.5 truck. He might sell the pump. Never know it might be not so old.

I've seen several take-offs sell from running engines sell for in the $200- $250 range.

I am going to start putting money away for a new IP pump. I called the local guys who rebuild pumps and they told me they do not rebuild these anymore, just supply new ones. They quoted me $1000.00 for it. I looked on Ebay and found a couple guys on there, has anyone here have a good source for a pump without breaking the bank.

 

[buddy]

An actual new IP for $1000 is not bad if it is a DS4-5521S. The S on the end is important, that has latest upgraded reliability internals hardened and coated. My local Stanadyne shop rebuilds them for that price with all new electronics and upgraded internals. The electronics are like $300 in parts.

 

[pitsingerk]

An actual new IP for $1000 is not bad if it is a DS4-5521S. The S on the end is important, that has latest upgraded reliability internals hardened and coated. My local Stanadyne shop rebuilds them for that price with all new electronics and upgraded internals. The electronics are like $300 in parts.

Thats bascially what the guy said, by the time they get the parts w/ labor it's cheaper to buy a new one. There is a company out of Tennesee I believe on Ebay selling pumps that are supposed to have the latest electronics included w/ a new pmd for $600. I'm tempted to try them, but would like some feedback if anyone here has used there stuff.

 

[buddy]

You also have to make sure they replace the internal wear items. I wouldnt trust an IP that ran for 100k miles, had an OS fail, and rebuilder just replaces the OS and it tests good. The newer harder, lower friction components and other wear items I would want replaced. And if they even test them and calibrate them on a bench is questionable when buying rebuilds.

 

[FZ23]

IP

I am going to start putting money away for a new IP pump. I called the local guys who rebuild pumps and they told me they do not rebuild these anymore, just supply new ones. They quoted me $1000.00 for it. I looked on Ebay and found a couple guys on there, has anyone here have a good source for a pump without breaking the bank.

I know this is a late date, but I've been dealing with YORK DIESEL SERVICE - 6469 FENN RD, MEDINA, OH for a while now. reasonable prices and great to deal with. Owners name is Jeff.