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97 Burb

A

Acesneights1

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Found A 1997 K1500 Burb wih a blown 6.5. It's an LS, 213k 4x4. Says it's 8 lug although I question that being it's a 1500. He said the valves cracked on # 7 and another cyl same bank . wants 1900$
 
IIRC all Diesel burbs were 8 lug of this vintage weren't they, I would say tho that the rear though would be the 9.5 SF.

Cheers
Nobby
 
All 94-99 Diesel Subs had 8 lug wheels and HD suspensions. The 1500's have a slightly lower GVW, IIRC around 7-800 lbs less than a 2500, they have 14" rear ends but with C clip axles (No full floating axles) 3.42 gear ratios, not sure if any other ratios available in the 1500, 2500s have 3.73 or 4.11 . A very few other minor differences, they have a small lip under the front bumper, stuff like that. They had F code 6.5's, 4L80E trans. I think the brakes are the same. They are much more like 2500 than a gas 1500. I don't know why GM even made 1500's, seems like a lot of work for what must have been a very small market.
 
What suprises me is how much diff my 94 k1500 is than my 96 k2500. Everything is tighter. On my 96 I can reach the #8 glow from up above to change it. On the 94 I had to remove the inner fender. At first I thought I was imagining things till I got to the glows. Must have diff body mounts. The other thing I found was the plow mounts which fit my 96 perfectly had to be modified to fit the 94.
 
Seems like it would depend a lot on its overall condition & maybe a bit how many 6.2/6.5/other truck parts you already have that might could be used to get it running & keep it running.

Believe in the pickups, the K2500 frame rails are a bit further apart. Don't know if that break is btwn 1500 & 2500ld-7200, or the heavier frame starts at K2500hd-8600?

Did all the 4x4 'Burbs probably come w/ the 9.25 front diff?
 
Price is too high for that many miles and a blown engine. He would be lucky to get any more than $500 from a junkyard for it. Maybe $1000 if the tires are excellent and has had brakes recently and little to no rust. In good running condition it would only bring $5000 or so on a good day. It would cost close to that much to have a remaned engine put in it at a shop.
 
What bk95td said a $1000 at the most if it has say good tires, recently done brakes or the like.

Cheers
Nobby
 
My biggest question would be "define blown 6.5". Rod shaped hole in block/oil pan or someone that's confused an injector knock with a rod knock? If it's not the custom ventilated block then there may be hope for the engine in it.
 
It needs heads according to the guy but I wouldn't bother buying heads for a motor with 213k and unknown condition. Better off getting a used runner.
 
Acesneights1 said:
It needs heads according to the guy but I wouldn't bother buying heads for a motor with 213k and unknown condition. Better off getting a used runner.
Click to expand...

Whoever said it needs heads probably saw the typical cracks between the valves. If they are dry cracks throw it back together(if it's apart that is)and just run it. I would. :p

IIRC 97 was the first year for the 506 block, and that year had the larger oil squirters that caused block cracks. if your going through the effort of throwing another engine in it, hunt for a non-squirter block to drop in.

just my $0.02.
 
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