95+ ignition switches difficult to unlock

[GM Guy]

Hey all,

Dad's 98 has been this way since we got it, and my new 95 is much worse.

Essentially, it is difficult to unlock the ignition. No, not any issue with the steering wheel, but wear in the key, and here you are pushing and pulling and cocking the key just right to get it to rotate. (98, push till it bottoms out, pull slightly while using a finger tip to turn it)

Once you get the key lock happy, it turns freely, glows come on, and it fires right up. Never dies, or anything suggesting ignition switch issues.

So, is this the thankfully cheap 16 dollar ignition lock cylinder going bad, or is this the ignition switch failing?

Also, if it is the ignition lock cylinder, how does it work replacement wise?, do you take the same info needed to get a key cut with you to GM along with the new cylinder, and they code it, you take it home and install, or does it need to be done while installed, therefore requiring a dealer to do the replacement?

Any info appreciated,
Thanks!

 

[ak diesel driver]

I replaced the one in my 96. Wouldn't go into the accessory position without a lot of jiggling. Didn't match the key as I was in a hurry but IIRC the auto parts store could get the right key but had to be ordered

 

[schiker]

I'd start with getting a key cut by the VIN at a dealer and see if its just key wear. Or check if you have a less used copy to try it to see if its the key.

Mine was doing like AK said it was hard to turn backwards with my old plain copy (no cover) I have used since I bought the truck and had it made. I had a spare spare I switched to and its been fine easy into acc. The factory covered one is smooth too that I had originally had copied ~ 10 yrs ago but the copy I was using daily wore away until it was hard to turn backwards. It did still go forward easy but the newer one seems even easier.

Might try some lock lube with a new key or copy too.

 

[GM Guy]

good idea,

I usually get a new key cut at the dealer to make sure all door cylinders and ignition cylinders are still factory, so there are no surprises in the middle of Wyoming, in the rare case I would happen to loose keys.

 

[Olddieselguy]

You know I have had issues in the past with dealer cut keys. And its not the code but rather the guy cutting the key. I had a key cut one time by the dealer and it barely worked. They said the code before they cut the key and I wrote it on the title. After struggling with getting it to turn I went to a locksmith, gave him the code and that key cut by a guy who cut keys all day worked slicker then snot on a brass bugger ball.

If that doesn't work lock cylinders are really easy to take apart and replace the tumblers. Just keep a pen and paper handy when you take it apart and write the numbers in order and in position of exactly where they came from. If you mess up it can become a big problem. If you get it put back together right there is a bar on the side of the lock cylinder that "drops" when the key is inserted and allows the cylinder to rotate.

 

[GM Guy]

I forgot about this thread, and figured I would update it:

Got a new pair of keys cut for around 15 bucks at the local GM dealer, and it works awesome now. there was a little bump that is in the bottom of a valley, and on the original keys, the bump was literally wore completely away.

So if the key is hard to get happy enough to release and turn, take your VIN to the dealer and get the key cut.