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'95 ground locations

Riddle_3d

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Montgomery City, MO
so, i got my motor put in my '95 today and planon finishing hooking it up tomorrow. i missed a ground on a suburban awhile back and it roasted the entire harness, i do not want to do this to this harness. could somebody give me the lacation of every ground i need to hook up? thanks in advance
 
Passenger side battery to fender, passenger side battery to intake manifold, flat copper strap from frame under exhaust downpipe to stud on firewall near bottom of a/c box, flat strap frm stud at bottom a a/c box to rear of passenger side head or rear intake manifold stud,Ring connector from harness with 1 black and 1 tan colored wire in it to rear intake manifold stud, large black wire with ring terminal to rear intake manifold stud, driver's side battery to intake manifold stud on driver's side of intake. As a precaution I run a extra ground cable from the intake manifold to the frame and a extra cable from the intake to the firewall.
The grounds at the rear of the intake [tan/black and large black] are very important. They are the grounds for the ecm and the dash-A/C and heater blower. Something else to eliminate is the connector behind the glove box that is a 2 wire connector with a black and a red wire. The contacts in the connector are undersized and the connector will melt inside especially if your blower motor is getting weak and drawing extra current. Cut the connector out and replace with a crimped butte splice connector.
Other ground connections to the frame are near the fuel tank sender and on the rear of the frame on the driver's side[tailights]
 
:yikes:Opps, I forgot the very important ground on the injection pump itself coming from the fsd harness:duh::pat:
 
The GM manual does also. It has component locations for most electrical items including connectors.
 
Oh yes, the manuals are awesome. Alldata is a bit cheaper though and doesnt take up so much space on the shelf :) I have both, except I just have the 1994 manual, but I have Alldata for 95 and 96 6.5s
 
well i got them all hooked up, it fired right up and runs like a top! and i have to say, now that i have a good running 6.5, that 93 runs like plain crap lol. you can hear the turbo doin' work, its got pep like none other, and it sounds good to boot. will the 93 compare in performance with the db-2 pump? OH! BTW, i have one question about the '95. what would cause it to sometimes keep running after you turn the key off? other times, it works just fine
 
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lock and tumbler or the column switch? everything shuts off but the motor when it does it too. if i unplug the solenoid on the motor, it will go ahead and die
 
lock and tumbler or the column switch? everything shuts off but the motor when it does it too. if i unplug the solenoid on the motor, it will go ahead and die

Sounds like the ignition switch . It usually is the other way though. When they fail the engine won't run. It could be getting feed back from something else on that circuit. The ignition switches are spendy and a pia to replace. I'd be shure its bad before replacing.
Your 93 should have just as much power as a 95. Much different feel on the go pedal though. The fuel shut off on the injection pump shouldn't be what shuts it off. It should be shut off by the fuel solenoid driver. Possible failing FSD?
 
I am guessing that you must have a power source tied to the ignition. Like for example, if you tied your LP to ignition power in parallel to OPS power, the OPS with oil pressure would always provide power to circuits regardless of the ignition position. Although the OPS couldnt handle all that current and would likely fail and end up shutting off the PCM and PMD very quickly.

Otherwise just a faulty ignition switch. The truck cannot run unless the PCM, PMD and FSO/ESO have ignition power.
 
So you turn key to ON and it runs the LP? Sounds like PO may have wired ignition to it, and left OPS in parallel.

Unplug the OPS, or cut the grey wire out of the OPS (leaving wire to work with on both ends), see if LP is still running off ignition, and your shutdown problems disappear. If LP isnt running then wire in the OPS relay mod where you cust the grey wire. And try to find out where it is tied to, because no reason to have LP drawing current through the ignition, but on a relay with battery power, triggered by OPS or ignition would be fine.
 
Passenger side battery to fender, passenger side battery to intake manifold, flat copper strap from frame under exhaust downpipe to stud on firewall near bottom of a/c box, flat strap frm stud at bottom a a/c box to rear of passenger side head or rear intake manifold stud,Ring connector from harness with 1 black and 1 tan colored wire in it to rear intake manifold stud, large black wire with ring terminal to rear intake manifold stud, driver's side battery to intake manifold stud on driver's side of intake. As a precaution I run a extra ground cable from the intake manifold to the frame and a extra cable from the intake to the firewall.
The grounds at the rear of the intake [tan/black and large black] are very important. They are the grounds for the ecm and the dash-A/C and heater blower. Something else to eliminate is the connector behind the glove box that is a 2 wire connector with a black and a red wire. The contacts in the connector are undersized and the connector will melt inside especially if your blower motor is getting weak and drawing extra current. Cut the connector out and replace with a crimped butte splice connector.
Other ground connections to the frame are near the fuel tank sender and on the rear of the frame on the driver's side[tailights]
can you post pictures
 
can you post pictures
Hello Jeff Green, welcome to the truck stop.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the last post of that thread is from Feb 22nd of 2011.
I doubt Buddy is even still active. I dont believe I have sen him posting since I joined.
Please start at the new members and do an introduction and ask away in that thread. It will catch a lot more attention if You could do that.
 
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