neura
New Member
Working on my brother in-laws truck, it is a light duty 2500 originally had a 6.2, thinking it is now a 6.5 with ATS Turbo, looks like the motor is from a van though as the turbo is at the head on the pass side. there dosnt seem to be a waste gate. he traded a car for this back in the spring and we are just now getting to work on it since the glow plugs went out, replaced 7 of the 8 with Bosch Duraterm 80034's. Cant get the one that is right at the manifold on the pass side (thinking manifold needs to come off). Someone has also butchered some of the wiring for the glow plug system at some point, there is a triple pillar pod that has a boost gauge, pyro (not working) and temp gauge for the engine heat. original temp sensor on the dash is not working. the glow plugs do not work when you turn the key to the on/start position. you need to trip the toggle switch for this they have the toggle switch wired to a 4 pole solenoid for a starter and then back to the original gp relay. once the toggle switch is tripped the gp light comes on... but you always have to remember to shut it off and also on and off to cycle during cold start to help it out... so first question is what is the best way to fix this so the gp relay is working with the key instead of on a toggle, (might leave a toggle switch for extending the glow time in the winter).
next question, what color wire is the ground for the fuel sending unit, we replaced the tank tonight because it was leaking but now the gauge reads full all of the time when the key is on, if you cycle the key on/off a few times and leave it off the gauge moves back to the correct level, it was working before swapping the tank. thinking it is a ground issue or somehow we got the connector plugged in backwards....
I can't here the lift pump running when the truck is running and there is another toggle switch for it (never use it), when I test for the lift pump working with it running I am getting fuel out of the drain valve, so I am thinking the toggle switch for the lift pump is just for priming purposes, but what would be the best way to rewire this so the pump is working during starting and for sure working when the truck is running and also leaving a toggle for when we want to prime it up again.
there is the old style turn the knob cold advance, but how would I go about wiring up a toggle switch for the cold advance instead of the pull and turn knob. I am thinking more of a style like the 95+ trucks can use to activate the cold advance, I also noticed on the IP there is a wire not connected, I am thinking this is the cold advance...
next question, what color wire is the ground for the fuel sending unit, we replaced the tank tonight because it was leaking but now the gauge reads full all of the time when the key is on, if you cycle the key on/off a few times and leave it off the gauge moves back to the correct level, it was working before swapping the tank. thinking it is a ground issue or somehow we got the connector plugged in backwards....
I can't here the lift pump running when the truck is running and there is another toggle switch for it (never use it), when I test for the lift pump working with it running I am getting fuel out of the drain valve, so I am thinking the toggle switch for the lift pump is just for priming purposes, but what would be the best way to rewire this so the pump is working during starting and for sure working when the truck is running and also leaving a toggle for when we want to prime it up again.
there is the old style turn the knob cold advance, but how would I go about wiring up a toggle switch for the cold advance instead of the pull and turn knob. I am thinking more of a style like the 95+ trucks can use to activate the cold advance, I also noticed on the IP there is a wire not connected, I am thinking this is the cold advance...
