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88gmctruck's 1999 K2500 L65 mystery coolant loss.

88gmctruck

02GMCtruck
Messages
2,010
Reaction score
338
Location
Auburn, Wa
Problem: Truck is using about 1gallon of coolant in roughly 1,000 miles.

Demographics:
- Year: 1999
- Truck model and class: K2500, 8,600 GVWR
- Automatic or Standard: NV-4500
- Mileage: ~149,### miles
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc): Black Stanadyne PMD with #9 resistor install on 3/14/2011 after runaway at approx 146,500 miles. PMD is bolted to a 1/4" aluminum plate with a pentium 4 heatsink and fan mounted behind the driver's battery.
- Model: Turbo-charged L65 "F"
- Ambient outside temp: Varied from 20F-65F
- What fuel are you using? #2 Diesel
- What fuel additives are you using? White power service
- Where are you located?: Pullman, WA

General Maintenance:
- Air filter: Donaldson filter changed on 03/14/2011 @ 148,000 miles
- Fuel filter: Wix changed changed on 03/14/2011 @ 148,000 miles
- CDR Valve?: Cleaned and inspected 02/13/2011 @ 146,### miles
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at: Unknown, uses approx 1 gallon of coolant per 1,000 miles. Coolant is orange, smells and looks normal. Cap holds pressure. No white smoke in exhaust. Upper radiator hose does not immediately get hard, takes about 8-10 mins. Previous owner had cooling system pressure tested and topped off though on 08/24/2007.
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at: Shell Rotella T 15w40 Conventional, changed on 03/14/2011 @ 148,000 miles
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at: Charged, matched Les Schwab 1,000/800 CA/CCA
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): OEM, cleaned and tightened.
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them?: Unknown What type? Delco G60. Individually tested & working
- Injectors - last changed at: Unknown

History:
- What were you doing when it happened?: Ongoing
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared?: Still running. Recently drove it across the state, 300 miles one direction, approx 200 miles around, and another 300 miles back.
- Has this problem ever happened before?: Yes.
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem: I thought the pass coolant blockoff plate was leaking, resealed it but it has not fixed the problem.
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)?: No, the light is not on.

Diagnostics:
1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start?: Yes.
1b] Does the engine crank over?: Yes.
1c] Are your batteries fully charged?: Yes.
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections?: Yes.
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time?: Yes. How long?: 10 seconds depending on temp of truck.
1f] Does your glow plug light come on?: n/a For how long?: n/a
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking?: Right after startup, yes. What color?: Normal exhaust colored, lightly sooty, smells like burnt #2.
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check?: yes.

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up?: After 8-10 mins of running on high idle, yes. Takes longer at normal idle..
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank?: No.
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)?: No.
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? When it's under ~32F there is white smoke on startup, appears as if it is normal condensation.
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? No.

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT)?: No.
6b] Maximum boost under load?: Unknown.
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip?: No.
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover?: 3" Straight pipe.
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)?: OEM

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

Truck has used coolant since day 1 apparently. Uses around a gallon in 1,000 miles. I'm contemplating trying the GM sealant tabs in the upper rad hose and see if it clears the problem up.

There does not appear to be any leaks at the crossover, blockout plates, or heater fitting. The exhaust smells normal, coolant looks and smells normal, and oil looks and smells normal. Oil lever never changes. Upper Rad hose takes 8-10 mins to get hard, coolant cap holds pressure just fine.

Just wondering where all I should look for external leaks. I'm thinking i'd be seeing white smoke, oil or coolant mix, or a hard upper rad hose if it was a cracked head/block or head gasket. I will be digging into all areas soon and trying to pinpoint if it's an external leak or not. I have contemplated purchasing UV dye for it.
 
skimmed through and didn't see, hows the water pump? I have had those go bad and NOT leak after shutdown, yet leak while driving. Any external leak will leave a stain, sometimes they can be hard to see. (preaching to the choir I know)

Heater core??
 
Heater core appears fine (no smell or any leakage in cab or from heater box drain on firewall), water pump i have no clue. It doesn't appear to be leaking at all externally.
 
I can't remember if you swapped out the heater's quick disconnect fitting at the T-Stat housing or not. It could be leaking during operation down the front of the motor and not leaving a tell tale drip after shut down as well. Mine was and even the steel replacement fitting was dripping until I properly re-tightened things up. Maybe a hose clamp letting go or pin hole opening up under pressure in a hose or the radiator? I'm skeptical even of these though as I would think one would be able to smell the stuff while driving or having stopped and popped the hood. With the last pressure test conducted in 2007, perhaps the UV dye would be the ticket to pinpoint the pesky source.
Sorry I can't be of more help than this.
 
Maybe a headgasket leak would appear in exhaust if you have someone hold the accelerator to like 2500rpm for a little while. Or perhaps its only goes under load.

How is the blowby? If oil level hasnt changed at all, maybe it should have consumed some if you know what I mean.
 
David,

Buy or borrow one of the coolant system pressure testers. (Autozone used to have it as a "rentable" tool. I bought mine after the first use.) It is awesome. I have located many of the small leaks with it. It allows pressurizing of the coolant system while the engine is cold.

Here are 2 examples from just the last few weeks:

Dad's Taurus. same thing, small nagging loss of coolant. Results: system would hold 8 psi. When I would pump the system to 14psi it would leak down to 8psi and hold that 'till the cows came home...... only when dad drove it on a longer trip would the system get hot enough to start leaking. obviously it leaked when he stopped, but it was spraying on a hot motor and so no obvious leak, as the coolant evaporated on the hot block. his problems were twofold: a heater hose had a small pinhole and there was a crack in one of the plastic tanks of the radiator.

Helga's Impala: "Dear, I am putting water in the Impala about every other day." I am going yeah yeah.... I can't see the leak. No coolant anywhere. Pressurize cold.... Ding slight coolant around stupid plastic combo Tee and restrictor (spelling?) GM used on the LT1.... started wiggling it and it broke in half. We got really lucky there...

sometimes you can hear the leak, motor isn't running to pressurize and no heat creaks(dad's) or finally see it before it evaporates (Helga's)

GL HTH,

Hag
 
I was loosing about an overflow container amount in a month. Found out it was leaking at the thermostat gasket, baked off so i couldnt see it after running. Could be something like that?
 
I can't remember if you swapped out the heater's quick disconnect fitting at the T-Stat housing or not. It could be leaking during operation down the front of the motor and not leaving a tell tale drip after shut down as well. Mine was and even the steel replacement fitting was dripping until I properly re-tightened things up. Maybe a hose clamp letting go or pin hole opening up under pressure in a hose or the radiator? I'm skeptical even of these though as I would think one would be able to smell the stuff while driving or having stopped and popped the hood. With the last pressure test conducted in 2007, perhaps the UV dye would be the ticket to pinpoint the pesky source.
Sorry I can't be of more help than this.
Well I've looked at the quick fitting, it appears to have been replaced somewhat recently (nice and shiny) but I think I'll throw a new one in for the sake of things. I was about to order some UV dye for it actually.

Maybe a headgasket leak would appear in exhaust if you have someone hold the accelerator to like 2500rpm for a little while. Or perhaps its only goes under load.

How is the blowby? If oil level hasnt changed at all, maybe it should have consumed some if you know what I mean.
Well, the coolant loss really only rears it's head after longer trips it seems, not so much on my usual to town stuff where things don't really fully heat up. The blowby appears to be very minimal on this truck, although it very well could be a head gasket. The oil really doesn't have enough condensation under the cap and is black as coal, so to me that suggests i'm loosing it elsewhere.

David,

Buy or borrow one of the coolant system pressure testers. (Autozone used to have it as a "rentable" tool. I bought mine after the first use.) It is awesome. I have located many of the small leaks with it. It allows pressurizing of the coolant system while the engine is cold.

Here are 2 examples from just the last few weeks:

Dad's Taurus. same thing, small nagging loss of coolant. Results: system would hold 8 psi. When I would pump the system to 14psi it would leak down to 8psi and hold that 'till the cows came home...... only when dad drove it on a longer trip would the system get hot enough to start leaking. obviously it leaked when he stopped, but it was spraying on a hot motor and so no obvious leak, as the coolant evaporated on the hot block. his problems were twofold: a heater hose had a small pinhole and there was a crack in one of the plastic tanks of the radiator.

Helga's Impala: "Dear, I am putting water in the Impala about every other day." I am going yeah yeah.... I can't see the leak. No coolant anywhere. Pressurize cold.... Ding slight coolant around stupid plastic combo Tee and restrictor (spelling?) GM used on the LT1.... started wiggling it and it broke in half. We got really lucky there...

sometimes you can hear the leak, motor isn't running to pressurize and no heat creaks(dad's) or finally see it before it evaporates (Helga's)

GL HTH,

Hag
I think a pressure test is next on the list actually, have to see if they are available to rent here in town.

I was loosing about an overflow container amount in a month. Found out it was leaking at the thermostat gasket, baked off so i couldnt see it after running. Could be something like that?
I'm hoping so. I'm going to do a thurough look through at the radiator, crossover, blockoff plates, t-stat and freeze plugs later this week.
 
I've had leaks between the timing cover and block that are very hard to see. The hot engine evaporates the coolant before it hits the ground. I found them when I started cold and shut off before hot. Pressure tester should give same effect except mine wouldn't leak cold. It had to warm up some.
 
Oil analysis costs you about $10.00 and will confirm if you have coolant in the oil. Coolant in the oil will ruin the bearings faster than clunker bomb and it doesn't take much to do so.

Check the AC water drain for coolant. Then a visual inspection of the radiator for pinhole leak traces: removal of the upper fan shroud is suggested. The big fan tends to evaporate coolant on small leaks...
 
Any amzoil dealer can get you a kit to send a sample in . Or any heavy equipment repair or heavy truck shop would know of any local labs that do testing. Amsoil kit cost me around $40. It may be cheaper to just test for coolant.
 
Any amzoil dealer can get you a kit to send a sample in . Or any heavy equipment repair or heavy truck shop would know of any local labs that do testing. Amsoil kit cost me around $40. It may be cheaper to just test for coolant.

Get with our site Amsoil vendors last time I did a oil sample summer 2010 the kit/test was < $20
 
Well, I rented a pressure tester and bought some UV coolant dye. I dumped the dye in before driving from town to home (truck warm) and let it sit till she was cooled off. I then pressure tested the system. I pumped it to about 25PSI and let it sit. After about 3 hours it was down to around 13PSI. I pumped it up again and let it sit this time till dark.

After dark, out came the UV light. The dye makes the coolant glow BRIGHT orange. Anyway, I checked the overflow tank, radiator, lines, heater fitting, crossover and blockoff plates, all nothing. So under the truck I went... First thing i see is orange...... The lower hose off the waterpump is leaking!!! So, I grab a 5/16" socket, and luckily the vacuum pump was positioned so I could access the hose clamp for it.

1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 quarter turns till it was tight.

So... I found what I believe is the mystery coolant loss, and it wasn't a headgasket or crack!
 
Yup, you were. I took a 100+ mile drive to lewiston today, coolant level appears to have stayed the same.
 
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