GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
I just thought I would give the rest of you junkies a tiny fix by informing you of what I got this weekend!
Went to a farm consignment auction, and there were three 6.5Ls. I got one, the cheapest one by far, for 800 bucks.
(other two were a 1995 K2500HD RCLB 6.5L 5spd 4wd with a new pmd and a GM8, and a new LP, had a heavy receiver and a B&W turnover, and it went for 2300, well worth it, but out of my budget for a junker; and a 1990 ECLB 3500DRW that started life as a 6.2L, and it had a new from gm 2 years back long block (supposedly over 8 grand!) with a banks sidewinder on it. guy said he needed at least 3500, and I saw him driving it home after the auction, also, good deal, but not willing to pay that.)
it is a 1995 C2500HD RCLB 6.5L auto 2wd, silver in color, base package with rubber floors, no tilt, and no a/c, just a plain am/fm radio.
now for the best part: it was about 30 degrees, we got to the auction early, and all the keys were in all the motorized stuff, and the truck was cold. it has a brand new pair of 7 year delcos, only 650 CCA, but still, brand new, let the glows run (a few were shiny, so I think they tested them and only changed the bad) and hit the key, she spun slow, but caught nonetheless, and afterglowed and cleaned up immediately. pulled both caps, no combustion gasses in the coolant tank, and not a visible wiff of blowby on the oil fill tube. the airbox was a little disformed, but the truck appeared to be mostly highway (2wd would also hint that ways for the most part anyways)so I dont think it injested much for dirt. The turbo doesnt have the original tag, so I feel it has been rebuilt. and for the best part: 121 thousand (and change) miles! pretty low for around here.
but for the potentially bad: go to check trans. fluid, and the whole dipstick and half the tube come out! :O it had vibrated and wore to the point of breaking at the lifting eye, but the level looked acceptable, so we just wadded a paper towel up and put it in the tube. And for the worst part: the worst cooler lines I have ever seen! cold, oil actually ran down them and puddled. that puppy never made it over 1750 till it got to 195 degrees! oh, t-stat works btw.
but, we hooked on to a buddies grain drill (got paid to drag that back, so it kind of reduced its cost allready!) went and swiped the card twice and got it full, dumped some more engine oil in (still hemoraging oil cold) and went, stopping ever 50 to check oil, but I guess it warmed up, stuff expanded, and I didnt hardly loose any thereafter.
it was about 130 miles back, and it seemed to drive fine, but even at those temps it got to 210 on long hills, and i didnt feel to make sure, but I didnt hear a LP running. tcc seemed to lock up fine. heat worked, radio worked, held 40 psi on the oil, etc.
basically, it would be a nice cheap run around, but it has a virgin WT grille that I desperately need for the 99, as well as a virgin impact strip-less bumper with nostrils that the 99 also needs, LF inner fender the 96 needs, seat for the 95, some interior trim for the 99, etc. oh, and engine into my suburban..or hd...or 96...still havent decided. anyways, it has rust, it isnt MT and it isnt white, so I am thinking it needs to be sacrificed for the improvement for others.
will a 95 auto work in a 94 sub? they way I have it remebered, the significant break was 1991-1995 and 1996 and up. is this correct?
Went to a farm consignment auction, and there were three 6.5Ls. I got one, the cheapest one by far, for 800 bucks.
(other two were a 1995 K2500HD RCLB 6.5L 5spd 4wd with a new pmd and a GM8, and a new LP, had a heavy receiver and a B&W turnover, and it went for 2300, well worth it, but out of my budget for a junker; and a 1990 ECLB 3500DRW that started life as a 6.2L, and it had a new from gm 2 years back long block (supposedly over 8 grand!) with a banks sidewinder on it. guy said he needed at least 3500, and I saw him driving it home after the auction, also, good deal, but not willing to pay that.)
it is a 1995 C2500HD RCLB 6.5L auto 2wd, silver in color, base package with rubber floors, no tilt, and no a/c, just a plain am/fm radio.
now for the best part: it was about 30 degrees, we got to the auction early, and all the keys were in all the motorized stuff, and the truck was cold. it has a brand new pair of 7 year delcos, only 650 CCA, but still, brand new, let the glows run (a few were shiny, so I think they tested them and only changed the bad) and hit the key, she spun slow, but caught nonetheless, and afterglowed and cleaned up immediately. pulled both caps, no combustion gasses in the coolant tank, and not a visible wiff of blowby on the oil fill tube. the airbox was a little disformed, but the truck appeared to be mostly highway (2wd would also hint that ways for the most part anyways)so I dont think it injested much for dirt. The turbo doesnt have the original tag, so I feel it has been rebuilt. and for the best part: 121 thousand (and change) miles! pretty low for around here.
but for the potentially bad: go to check trans. fluid, and the whole dipstick and half the tube come out! :O it had vibrated and wore to the point of breaking at the lifting eye, but the level looked acceptable, so we just wadded a paper towel up and put it in the tube. And for the worst part: the worst cooler lines I have ever seen! cold, oil actually ran down them and puddled. that puppy never made it over 1750 till it got to 195 degrees! oh, t-stat works btw.
but, we hooked on to a buddies grain drill (got paid to drag that back, so it kind of reduced its cost allready!) went and swiped the card twice and got it full, dumped some more engine oil in (still hemoraging oil cold) and went, stopping ever 50 to check oil, but I guess it warmed up, stuff expanded, and I didnt hardly loose any thereafter.
it was about 130 miles back, and it seemed to drive fine, but even at those temps it got to 210 on long hills, and i didnt feel to make sure, but I didnt hear a LP running. tcc seemed to lock up fine. heat worked, radio worked, held 40 psi on the oil, etc.
basically, it would be a nice cheap run around, but it has a virgin WT grille that I desperately need for the 99, as well as a virgin impact strip-less bumper with nostrils that the 99 also needs, LF inner fender the 96 needs, seat for the 95, some interior trim for the 99, etc. oh, and engine into my suburban..or hd...or 96...still havent decided. anyways, it has rust, it isnt MT and it isnt white, so I am thinking it needs to be sacrificed for the improvement for others.
will a 95 auto work in a 94 sub? they way I have it remebered, the significant break was 1991-1995 and 1996 and up. is this correct?
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lol 
