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6.5L Turbo tolerance and questions

A

adamhammer

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Location
Traverse City, MI
I've purchased a '95 with a 6.5L TD with 230,000mi, this truck is my first diesel, however I've restored and done plenty of work on rare cars so it's a matter of attention to detail that I believe will get me through.

The truck was purchased with a bad IP, it started but immediately revved way up and to prevent an over-rev or damage to engine I shut it off immediately. I've got the new IP coming, and plan to replace the injector nozzles while I'm into it. How exactly do you time the IP? I understand the idea of scribing a line to get it close, is there a special timing device or just an OBD scanner?

I've also got the turbo out and am inspecting that. I noticed some play in the turbo up/down or side/side. My question is, at what point should I be concerned that there is too much play? I've removed the compressor housing and with a feeler gauge between the flat housing and flange of the turbine i have .025". The turbine centers at approximately .010". So my determination is that theres approximately .015" of play in the bearings. is this too much? I know .005" would probably be the best scenario for a fresh turbo. Is this a time for a rebuild? if not how much life can I expect out of a turbo in this condition? I don't feel like launching turbo shards into the engine...

I plan to buy the injector nozzles and install them into the housings myself. I plan to take them to a diesel shop to have them pop tested and set. Is there anything specific I should know or consider before I get into this? How exactly are the pressures set in the injector?

Any other thoughts from you guys would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
first off welcome. as far as the IP goes before you change it try a diff PMD. If that doesn't fix it you will need a new IP. It's most likely the IP but PMDs have been known too cause this same issue but is somewhat rare. Go ahead and scribe your line it will at least give you a mark to move the IP off of when you time it. As far as setting the timing buy gmtdscantech from Leroy at pmdcable.com great laptop program and cable to set your timing with.
I'd probably consider rebuilding that turbo. As far as inj go you set the pop pressure with shims under the spring, and you have to disassemble them to do that so you might as well have the diesel shop install them. A good pop pressure to set them to would be 2250.
 
If the turbine wheel isn't hitting the housing and it isn't leaking oil it is a good turbo.
 
Thanks for the info. There is some oil coming from the compressor side, but I've also noticed oil leaks from the engine pan and valve covers and it leads me to believe that maybe the CDR isn't working, any confirmation on that?

I think the $30 kit to rebuild the turbo may be worth it for peace of mind. From what I've read and understand there is a necessity to balance the assembly, is this something any diesel shop can do?

Other notes that you guys may have input on. This truck is to be my towing truck, I tow classic cars in a 32ft enclosed trailer, which could possibly involve some cross country stints. Any recommendations to make this truck reliable and efficient? I'm considering a Heath chip for towing. It would seem that the turbo isn't terribly bad so I'm going to save some pennies for a bit before I decide an ATT is necessary. I'd like to make it so I can keep that left door closed and not have to worry about the tow rig, or my wallet.
 
no I have not, is there a special diesel leak-down tester? Or will my gasoline tester work, Im guessing i would need an adapter to screw into the injector port.
 
Blowby is the term for compression leaking past the pistons to the crankcase,a plugged CDR causes blowby to build up in the crankcase and causing oil leaks at crankseals and gaskets.
How to test the CDR is in the sticky's somewhere
 
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