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6.5 Warm Start Problems

dms4x4

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Location
Iowa
Hello everyone -

I bought my first GM product back in July, a 1993 GMC 3500 with a 6.5 diesel. My other truck is a 1993 Ford with a 7.3, naturally aspirated. It's a great truck with only 80,000 miles. I've had it for 3 years with no problems, and was happy to find a diesel powered second truck with the budget I had in mind. It also seems to be a very solid, older truck, even though it has a jillion miles.

The problems with the GMC started within days of buying it. It will start in the morning, although not as fast as it should, but after getting to operating temperature, then being turned off and left sitting for half an hour or so, it becomes very difficult to start. When it finally does start, a big cloud of grey smoke comes out. It was 35 degrees F this morning, and it started, so the gp circuit works for now, though when it gets really cold I'm not sure the batteries are going to have enough zing, even though they're less than a year old.

What I've done so far........

1. Checked the glow plug resistance; replaced two (including #8). Could not get to #6. The other five Ohmed around .8-1.4 to the negative pole of the battery. The two that were replaced were open.

2. Did the "lift pump test" and verified it works while running. Also pulled the plug at the pump, verified proper voltage, and felt the lift pump with plug attached. It's definitely thumping, though I can't hear it.

3. Purchased through E-bay the "6.5 Liter V-8 Turbo Diesel Engine" book, GM publication 16015.12.2. Though not an indepth shop manual, it's actually a student workbook, it seems to have enough information and detail to serve as a good foundation.

4. Reviewed both the glow plug and lift pump wiring information found in above reference.

A few questions to the group:

1. When warm, the glow plugs do not come on (they do on the Ford every time it's started, regardless). The wiring diagram in the book does not indicate any kind of thermal input device, i.e. temperature switch, etc. There are four wires to the controller, none of which are temperature dependent. Is there an internal thermal control in the glow plug controller, or is something flaky with the way it's acting?

2. Where exactly is the lift pump control relay located?

3. I put a clamp on amp meter around the glow plug relay leads, and also around a single wire going to a glow plug, but got nothing at either place. I don't know if this type of meter will work on DC current. What type of amp meter can be used to test if current is actually passing through leads?

4. One other thing, I noticed the engine ground strap to the frame by cylinder #8 is broken. What is the implication for this?

5. Am I on the right track here, should I go in a different direction, or does this dragon have many heads?

The truck has 305,000 miles. The previous owner put 50,000 on it in two years, and did not talk like he did anything other than drive it, so I have no information regarding other repairs, and replacements over the life of the truck.

Thanks in advance for any help that might be offered, and sorry for such a long, first post.



And here's the diagnosis check list..........

- Year: -1993
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) -GMC 3500
- Automatic or Standard - Auto
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 305,000

- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc)- none ___________
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? - 6.5 TD
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) 60-90F
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) - #2 _________
- What fuel additives are you using? None
- Where are you located? Kansas

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter - unknown
- Fuel filter _________ - unknown
- CDR Valve? _________ - unknown
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at _____________ - unknown; I added about two quarts, but it disappeared; does not have gunk in radiator, and did not see it leak out
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at ___________ - regular; change recently
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at _____________ - two 850 cca, each less than one year old
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): good ______________
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? _________ What type? unknow _____________
- Injectors - last changed at _______________ unknown


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? ______________
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? truck runs and drives good once started, no misses, stuttering or anything
- Has this problem ever happened before? _______________________
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. ______________
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) ____ And? Auto store showed me how to stic clip in and get codes; none came up ________


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? _________ yes, but cantanquerous when warm
1b] Does the engine crank over? ________ yes
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? _________ yes, they don't seem to have as much juice as they should, though
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? ________ yes
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? _________ yes; 10 seconds or so
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? yes For how long? 10 seconds or so
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? a little, kind of grey
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? ________

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? ____________ no but test indicates it is
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? yes _________
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? yes___________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _________
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ___________

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) ___________
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? _________
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. _________
3d] PMD Make: ___________
3e] PMD Age: _____________

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? ____________ no
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) no ______
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? Haven't tried that _________
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? _________
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? _________
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ___________
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _________
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___________

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? _______ it gets pressure
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? _______ no
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? __________ no
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? _________ no
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? __________ no really

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? ___________ no
6b] Maximum boost under load? ____________
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? ______________ no
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? ________________ no
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? ______________ unknown

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? ____________ single?
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? no _________
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? ____________ no
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? no ________
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? __________
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? ___________

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.
 
try pouring water on the injection pump next time its warm. If it starts better than that's an indication the pump is wearing out. Heard of guys doing that for 2 years before they bought a new ip
 
On my 95 the lift pump relay is in the fuse center under the hood right by the ABS controller. The glow time gets shorter on my truck when it's warm but it always comes on for at least a short period of time when I turn the key on. With that being said I don't have to wait for the glows when it's warm and there isn't any white smoke. My truck has 322,000 miles on it.
 
The '92 and '93 are known for hot start issues, the DB2-4911 IP's in those years develop excesive head-spaceing and when warm/hot don't generate the pressure needed to start right up. (my '93 included) Next time it does that, pour about a gallon or room-temp water over it and see if it starts. If so, you'll need a new/rebuilt IP in the near future. The glowplugs won't come on if the coolant temp is above approx 85-90F on those years.
Don
 
I see many ads for rebuilt injector pumps in the $600-800 range. Does the re-building process correct the issues with head spacing, or does one have to buy a brand new one?
 
Welcome aboard!
The IP's in that price range should include 'upgraded head/rotor' that will eliminate the hard to start when hot problem....that's not to say that a rebuilt, non upgraded IP (for around $260.00 - $300.00) won't last a long time.

My 92 started having the same symptoms about 20k miles ago. I turned the pump up and it's started fine until recently. On days where the temps are above 90, if I shut it off and let it sit more than about 45 minutes the IP get's 'heat soaked' and it takes a little longer to start now.

I drove it for about a year with a milk crate full of water bottles in the toolbox. I knew exactly what the 'window' of no start time was and before I would even try I would just trickle one bottle over the IP and she would fire right up....every time. It never took more than one bottle, but the trick is you have to trickle it really slow over the IP to cool it down.

I think it was the Dr. of the Turbine that told me way back then that turning the pump up might extend the life of the pump a few miles or a few thousand....in my case almost 20k. but I can tell you, if you have the money, just replace the pump. Had a buddy with the same problem, he just replaced the pump and man, did his truck run better....and even sounded A LOT smoother.
 
Pensacola has them for about 300$ IIRC. If the glows are nto coming on at all I would probably see why first. Mine have always come on regardless on all my 94+ however I will comment on my older CUCV they won't come on if the truck is hot or warm but it starts effortlessly anyway. The water trick will tell the tale as well. BTW the water trick is not soley for DB2's. It works on DS4s as well.
 
I wired in a GP override for my 6.2 as it does the same thing when warm. The glows are designed to not come on when the coolant is above a certain temperature. There is a sensor in the rear coolant blockoff plate on the passenger side on my factory setup. That's the glowplug "cutout" switch.


As for a new IP. Send DieselPro a PM. I don't know if he's here or not, but he's on DP. He won't steer you wrong. The reman IP i bought from him works perfect, and it was a lot less than $600-800.
 
For a test

Add a gallon of motor oil to a full tank (fill up) of fuel and see if the issue improves.

This will "Thicken" the mix and if its a pump head issue the truck will likely start a lot better.

The only remedy at this point is to get the pump rebuilt or replace it.


Missy
 
Yeah a manual override is a must for 6.2s.

If your stock GP system works fine(mine did)The way i set my override up to retain both the factory system(for warmer weather) and the override(for colder weather and in the dead of winter) would probably be a nice option.
 
Notice on Diag list that Batteries seem to lack "juice". Might not be a bad idea to first replace with a new set if questionable to help with cranking speed.

Post on other site indicating warm starts harder due to temps
 
If your stock GP system works fine(mine did)The way i set my override up to retain both the factory system(for warmer weather) and the override(for colder weather and in the dead of winter) would probably be a nice option.

Yeah that is usually what I di unless the GP controller is toast
 
Pensacola has them for about 300$ IIRC.

Negatory there red-rider :D, just got a quote from Phillip (pres of Pensacola Diesel), After a little going back and forth with e-mail regarding if the IP was on their site he finally said "the pump is not on our site, the 6.5 db2 is offered 2 ways , a reman head & rotor 495.00 & a new head & rotor is 695.00"

I'll be contacting Diesel Pro.
 
I'd put a glow plug override on it first. Sounds like your getting fuel if you get a cloud of smoke when it does start.

On my 92 or 93 the glows dont work once the engine is hot. The 92 cranks fine that way. The 93 dont, but think its partly due to lower compression from the thicker headgaskets and more engine wear from previous being a 4.10 truck most of its life.
 
Notice on Diag list that Batteries seem to lack "juice". Might not be a bad idea to first replace with a new set if questionable to help with cranking speed.

Post on other site indicating warm starts harder due to temps

The batteries got to where it wouldn't even turn it over if it sat for a few days. Took it in to the store where the batteries were purchased, and they hooked up some kind of little meter that tested CCA, voltage, etc. One battery was good, and the other delivering only 445 of 850 CCA. The meter printed out the results. They gave me a new one, and the truck now takes right off. The glow plug controller cycles 3 or four times after starting as it should when cold. It's obviously cooler now than in August, but the warm start problems seem to have all but disappeared.

One interesting thing from the meter test, the bad battery temperature was 5or 6 degrees warmer than the good battery.

In this whole process I did get a new rebuilt military injector pump from another subscriber. Will wait and see what happens in a few months, but in the mean time, I sure love the sound of the 6.5 TD when it fires up on the first lick.
 
The batteries got to where it wouldn't even turn it over if it sat for a few days. Took it in to the store where the batteries were purchased, and they hooked up some kind of little meter that tested CCA, voltage, etc. One battery was good, and the other delivering only 445 of 850 CCA. The meter printed out the results. They gave me a new one, and the truck now takes right off. The glow plug controller cycles 3 or four times after starting as it should when cold. It's obviously cooler now than in August, but the warm start problems seem to have all but disappeared.

One interesting thing from the meter test, the bad battery temperature was 5or 6 degrees warmer than the good battery.

In this whole process I did get a new rebuilt military injector pump from another subscriber. Will wait and see what happens in a few months, but in the mean time, I sure love the sound of the 6.5 TD when it fires up on the first lick.

When the ambient is hotter, the battery produces even less amps.
That is why you are better now. Make sure the connections are good and the cables are good.
 
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