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6.5 W/Broken Glowplug

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Location
Worcester, MA
This is not my truck. I saw someone selling it and told him to come here to help fix it. This is his reply. I am going to foward this link to him so he directly come here.

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Thank you for writing and trying to help. I went on the site and was unable to find the thread that describes the procedure.

I can tell you what I have done. The plug broke off flush to the cylinder head. I drilled a 13/64 (.203") hole into the center of the glow plug about 3/8" deep and tried to remove it with a stud extractor. It didn't budge and I didn't want to apply too much torque for fear of breaking off the extractor in the glow plug. I used PB-Blaster, WD40 and heat but it still wouldn't budge. If I drilled a larger hole, there would not be enough meat to grab the glow plug. If I try to drill it out more, I risk drilling too far and then I would have no compression and the truck will not run right.

I could try to apply air pressure into the fuel injector opening and try to drill out the injector with air blowing out the chips but I still risk not being able to get all the pieces out. I don't want to get too deep into this. Right now, I can still drive the truck and I can try to sell it. It still runs fine but it is just difficult to start when it gets cold. I am seriously thinking about buying a new truck.

Removing the cylinder heads is a big job and it is more than I want to get into. If someone has the capability to do it, then, with some effort, they can end up with a good truck. I'm getting too old for this kind of work!

If you have a different idea, please tell me or give me the link to the thread that describes the fix.

Thanks for writing.


Joe
 
Sounds like its just a swelled tip stuck in there. From what I was able to find, method is taking injector out, blocking precup area through injector hole with paper towel or something that wont damage engine if a piece gets left behind, and tap the swolen tip INWARD??

Then blow compressed air through GP hole to blow it out injector hole (eye protection)


Or Shopvac the piece out through the injector hole.

Or both. Be sure to get it all.

FWIW he is reading this thread, just a little reluctant to join.
 
Joe, welcome. I'm not joining in here because I've never had one that couldn't be gotten with an easy out and PBlaster... I don't want to give bad advice. Stay patient - there are lots of great guys (and gals) on here that will chime in, sooner or later.

If there is an answer, you can bet one of our members knows what it is - this is indeed the best 6.5 site on the web.
 
What kind of truck and how much ? I'll yank a head. No prob. too bad not drivers side but that's always the case isn't it ?
 
Wow, Kenny, another 6.5 ! That's a nice one, too! (bet the wife would like to drive that one :D)

You thinking of adding to the collection?
 
I read to many times people twisting a glow plug off and try an easy out.This dont work99% of the time.
Easy outs are only good for a broken bolt that aint seized in the bore.The easy out is usually 1/2 the dia of the bolt thats stuck,and cant take the same torque that snapped the thicker bolt shank of to start with.
drilling the hole deeper to acommodate a bigger easyout results in a to thin walled stub,applying force to the easyout has the tendency to spread the stub wider,thereby forcing the stub tighter in the bore yet.

If a glowplug wont budge with a 1/4" rachet,a guy is better off to use a t-wrench set to no more than 25/30 lbs,thats just shy of the break off point.If that has no result,then
a better way is to break the terminal and the insulator out,put a snug fitting flat faced punch in the cavity of the plug and rap it with :hammer: a number of times. dont use the punch on the hex ,cause all you do is wreck the hex so the socket wont fit no more.Use plenty of W40 or so before hand. Use the T-wrench at all times. I had good results that way with stuborn plugs a # of times.

If one happens to twist the hex part off,the only other way i found is to weld a washer and nut to the stub(the heat helps to break up the rust in the treads) , and try again after rapping the stub with a hammer and punch good and hard.In most cases one will have to remove the head to do this unless you are :baby: sized.

Drilling the plug out is very tricky,the treads and taper seat at the end are easely damaged,Then what!
 
Apparently there is no stub. Broke FLUSH at the head.

What is a T wrench?

Double sided handle for even torque/twist displacement?
 
Diesel -T said:
T wrench = Torque wrench I would think is what Bison is referring to .
Click to expand...

Of course............. I was looking too much into it. That really is good advice to use that to take them off. It gives you a chance to think and try other approaches before trouble strikes.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Apparently there is no stub. Broke FLUSH at the head.

What is a T wrench?

Double sided handle for even torque/twist displacement?
Click to expand...
T-wrench>torque wrench.The double sided/sliding handle would be called a T-bar

Well,for pete's sake i call it a stub,what else would you call it,no matter that its flush with the head.
that's why you need the washer,to weld to that (stub) first cause there aint notting sticking out to bake the nut to:D
 
bison said:
T-wrench>torque wrench.The double sided/sliding handle would be called a T-bar

Well,for pete's sake i call it a stub,what else would you call it,no matter that its flush with the head.
that's why you need the washer,to weld to that (stub) first cause there aint notting sticking out to bake the nut to:D
Click to expand...

Nub :)

Makes sense Bison, center the washer on the nub :) and weld the hole in the middle to the broken GP. Good idea.
 
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