6.5 TD Starts then dies occasionally

[Mattjo29]

So I have a 1992 Chevy 3500 TD that is picked up for a work truck. I love this truck and its a great work horse but every once in a while when it starts it will die 5-10 seconds later and have to be cranked for a long period of time before restarting. But once it has restarted it has no problem and runs fine. This will happen every once in a while with no apparent pattern. Some days it won't happen and others it will happen five or six times.

Any ideas on what could cause this?

 

[ChillerMechanic]

I would check bettery condition and connections. Also make sure grounds are shiny clean, especially the one on the back of the passenger side cylinder head.

Any dtc's?

 

[Mattjo29]

No Error codes on dash. Both batterys are brand new and are bolt in connectors.

 

[Will L.]

Welcome to the forum.

What is your fuel pressure between lift pump and injector pump? When did you last change fuel filter- and did you clean or replace the small screen on the shaft under the fuel filter?

 

[Mattjo29]

Welcome to the forum.

What is your fuel pressure between lift pump and injector pump? When did you last change fuel filter- and did you clean or replace the small screen on the shaft under the fuel filter?

I am not sure of the fuel pressure or how to check it. I was told the fuel filter was replaced roughly 5k miles before i bought it and i have put 12k on it so i think i was replaced 17k miles ago but i cant be sure.

 

[WarWagon]

I would check bettery condition and connections. Also make sure grounds are shiny clean, especially the one on the back of the passenger side cylinder head.

Any dtc's?

A 1992 is a DB2, mechanical injection. The ECM is a Transmission control computer only.

The only reason a DB2 engine stalls:
Sticking metering valve returning to idle after cutting fuel.
Bad idle speed adjustment - needs it checked every 6 months. Adjust TPS after idle speed adjustment.
Air in fuel or lack of fuel - failed OPS or Lift pump. Pinholes in pickup assembly or other air/fuel leaks.
Loss of 12v to the run solenoid - pink wire on IP.

Due to long crank times - you are running out of fuel or have air issues and have to re-prime the IP.

 

[WarWagon]

I am not sure of the fuel pressure or how to check it. I was told the fuel filter was replaced roughly 5k miles before i bought it and i have put 12k on it so i think i was replaced 17k miles ago but i cant be sure.

How long do you think the fuel filter should last? 10K is the outer limit and most would change it once a year or every other oil change at 6K miles. You test fuel pressure off the water drain usually the brass 1/4" valve on the T-Stat housing. Use a pressure vac gauge as 0 may mean the system is under a vacuum from a clogged tank sock, kinked hose etc. Note this location will not show you a clogged filter.

 

[Will L.]

Time for you to read a lot of the sticky threads. The knowledge you gain is worth big $ in savings. Never start throwing parts at it. Even if you can afford all the parts, you can compound issues by making install errors on new parts. Diagnose then repair or replace.

Remove you fuel cap and retry.

http://m.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html
Buy 1' of clear 1/4" hose while you are there for an extra $2.

Start with the fuel pressure test.

If you have pressure, then replace the 1/4" return line out the front of the injector pump with a clear line to check for flowing bubbles indicating air bieng sucked into the fuel system.

Let us know what you find and we'll walk you through from there.

 

[Burning oil]

Welcome to TTS.

Fuel is my guess, bad OPS or LP possibly combined with air leak. Fuel PSI gauge is the most important gauge IMO.

FYI: http://leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-fuel-pressure-tap-fpt/