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6.5 td help

rtdhsp

rtdhsp

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Hi all what an awsome sight,well im three days into owning my first diesel,(scary) but I bit the bullet.The guy I bought the truck from took good care of the engine/truck so i hope to carry it on.well I put a new starter on it already knowing it needed it when I bought the truck.BUT when I was on my way home tonight I floored (checking it out) it the throtle stuck wide open, then it idled down and surged about 10 times and quit,thus walking home:mad2: Im going to get a code reader tommorow,can I use a jump wire to retreve the codes? p.s rtdhsp=real trucks dont have sparkplugs...lol
 
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sound like a broken armature fellas? Some what sounds like what happened when mine broke..
 
Welcome to DTR, rtshsp! I see you already have your signature filled out (thank you - it helps us to help you).

First, let's see your codes.. you rightly asked if you can read them with a paper clip, and to quote one of your politicians, Yes you can! :)D)

Now... with your new diesel, you're gonna want to spend some quality time reading through our 6.5/6.2 Technical Library - you'll learn a ton about your truck and get a better feel for the acronyms and names of parts.

You just found yourself the best place on the web to get assistance with your truck - the guys around here are top-notch experts on what ails ya!

Welcome!!

Jim Faire
 
This truck has the electronic throttle. Now that said my first inclination is a failed PMD

Normally when these fail the rig just quits. Now that said they can fail in a full throttle condition too. The ecm will shut the thing off if it overspeeds.

Many times they will not set a code under this condition.

Check the codes first and if nothing much shows the best thing is to mount a fresh PMD (DTECH brand) on a remote cooler.

The wires can be snaked and fished off the old one on the IP (Abandon in place)
Use a number 5 resistor in the new PMD.

Extension cables to remote mount are easy to come by too. (Vendors here should be able to help)

The scenario you laid out leads me to believe that the "HARD" romp over taxed a PMD that was on the verge of going away.

The more fuel that is demanded places more stress on the PMD.

There is a circuit in the thing that can and does burn though and this causes the wide loose codition.

Keep us posted

MGW
 
ROFL - thanks for chiming in, Missy!

RTDHSP - I neglected to tell ya that the GALS around here are top-notch, too! (but of course, you already figured that out, if you read MGW's last post!)
 
My first experience with a PMD failing in the Balls to the wall mode was exciting to say the least. I had two "Good Used" Pmd's to test. I plugged in the first one and wound the starter, the thing went wild then shut off, Phump dead.

Hmmm Must not be a good one as I turn around to find the other two folks that had been standing close by are knowhere to be seen.

I tried the second one and the little critter popped off and purred just sweet.

These types of failures are rare.
Now the shut off solenoid up on top of the pump does not actually shut the engine off each and every time.

The power is shut off to the whole system when the key is shut off. The solenoid is more there to give a positive way to kill the thing in case there is a catastrophic loss of control such as a severe overspeed due to a fuel control issue.

The ECM will trip in such an event and close the solenoid and unless the key is reset to off then back on the engine will not restart.

The designers did get the safety part right.


MGW
 
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thanks for the help peeps,I have 13,22,25,63 for codes thinking some are old but I agree it sounds like the pmd.the fuel solenoid fuse was blown when I checked it out today and burnt 3 more while trying to start it.ended up trying the stock pmd (against my better judgment) knowing it had to be burnt but at least it didnt blow any more fuses.I will put a new pmd on tomorrow.I opened the fuel petcock by the thermostat,had lots of fuel.

tried wd40 with no fire,should have still fired no?
assuming it is the pmd ,should it fire or did i let air in the fuel system?
thanks for your responses greatly appreciated
Wayne k

p.s hopfully she comes home tomorrow
 
how would I test the armature?couldnt get a pmd today,Im loosing hope real quick here.I figure if the pmd was done it should still fire with wd-40.
 
rtdhsp said:
how would I test the armature?couldnt get a pmd today,Im loosing hope real quick here.I figure if the pmd was done it should still fire with wd-40.
Click to expand...

Uh, no. Don't lose hope - you haven't tried anything yet. Wait for the PMD.

Clear your history codes using the procedure found in the technical library, then see if they come back.

FYI:

Code 13 - Engine Shutoff Solenoid Circuit Fault
Code 22 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit Low
Code 25 - Accelerator Pedal Position 2 Circuit High
Code 63 - Accelerator Pedal Position 3 Circuit High

You might be getting the idea that your APP isn't working too well... if those codes come back after you clear things, look for loose wires or bad connection on your Accelerator Pedal first - it looks like it's unplugged.

Don't worry about testing your armature shaft.
 
k ,new pmd did not do the trick,I can feel the fuel solenoid working...no fuel at the injectors,batteries are getting low,I will charge them in the morning as the truck is STILL not home.Im thinking of getting a donkey real soon.
codes are cleared,they havent come back.

do I have air in the lines?
it cranked over fast for about 30 sec untill the bats went weak.
 
Man, three whole days after acquiring your first 6.5 (and your first diesel) and you found this place!......I wish I were so lucky.

I can tell you this, the few (really somewhat minor)problems with these trucks can easily be resolved with the resources right here on this site....once those are fixed you'll have one fun to drive, very reliable truck....and it helps that these trucks are very easy to work on compared to any of the newer diesels.

I used to be on several 6.5 forums.....and after a few months it was very easy to see the "cream rise to the top" - regarding the members of this site.

Welcome aboard! and one warning, you don't know it yet but, you're about to start a new hobby........

I first purchased my truck - just because it was cheap - was an old farm truck. Now it's my daily driver, open air intake, open exhaust, ice cold A/C, turbo whistling dixie and 21mpg back and forth to work!
 
See if you are getting fuel to the filter. Crack open the bleeder on top of it and crank it over you should have fuel coming out. If not try jumping the solenoid on the firewall to run the pump to see if you get fuel then.
 
30 sec of cranking should not used up the battery.

May want to do load test on the batteries, ONE AT A TIME.
If you don't have one, take it off and bring it to a part store, they will test it.
 
Odlaw,excellent point of view bud,I love the challange too ,I was gonna flog it but I hear 50/50 reviews about the 6.5 TD.Im thinking this is not going to detier me from giving the 6.5 another chance. Its been a sharp learning curve these last EIGHT days.I love you guys N gals.... (you know who you r) ANYWAYS .

NEW pmd ....no start
FUEL SHUT OFF SOLINOID....works
PRIME WITH FUEL....fires
CRACKED INJECTOR... nada

CONCLUSION... broke armature.

next step is to pull the IP. is there a trick when to pull the IP for timming marks? or do I have to turn the crank to allign them?

ALL IN.
 
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PS> to answer the question (30 sec of cranking) Ive been trying to start this thing for 7 daze.it has new batteries and lifetime starter.The way I see it the PMD and the IP went at the VERY same time.

still hoping my TPS is ok.
thanks again Wayne k
 
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