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6.5 center mount to side mount (van to truck) Will it work?

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bigschaf36

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Deep Southern Illinois
I need to pull from the experience and knowledge of you good folks on this forum to help me answer this question. I have a 1996 Chevy 2500 4x4 ext cab with a bad engine. My mechanic (and friend) has a 1999 6.5TD from a school bus (short bus) with a center mount turbo. I want to send that block to the machine shop for an overhaul (he will swap me block for block) The machine shop is not familiar with how to convert center mount to side mount. I know from my research I will need to use my heads and manifolds. Will my intake bolt up to this block? I have read that the intake bolts are different angles? Is that true? And how to we plug the oil holes in the block from the center mount? I read the holes "need to be threaded and plugged" so then I would assume they are round? Any idea of what size? Has anyone done this and is it worth it? The shop has asked for pics if available. If anyone can help me I really want to get "Ole Red" back on the road. Thank you
 
Have the block inspected for cracks in the mains and the cylinders before wasting time on it. As noted the heads are different so if you swap those out for yours the short blocks are the same. Thread and plug turbo oil holes is child's play to a machine shop. Make sure they rebuild your heads after checking for cracks. The only critical rebuild area appears to be new cam bearings installed properly. IMO most of the time all the engine needs is new rings and whatever head gasket or cracked heads blew pressure into the cooling system fixed.

Why are you not just rebuilding *your* block? Again with the crack factor you may go through both to find a crack free one.
 
Thank you for the help. After everything I have read and learned about these engines I believe you are correct it may take both blocks to find a good one and that may not be enough. The main reason for not using my block was to speed up the swap. Take mine out while the other is being machined and it will be ready to go when done. But, alas, best made plans.
If anyone happens to have a picture of a center mount block that would still be much appreciated.
 
If you want "speed" get a surplus military take out engine. 6.2/6.5 surplus really doesn't matter. (Cost of them is going up.) Toss a set of gapless rings on it and call it a day. I wouldn't spend $0.02 on machining a crack prone GM block. Frankly in the PER, Professional Engine Rebuilder, world the GM castings are scrap. All I would pay for is (maybe) the install of new cam bearings on a GM casting: I haven't yet. The GM stuff will crack to death before anything else wears out. I suggest being frugal just because the GM castings can be found cheaper than machining and simply don't last like other all out engine rebuilds can and do. (Seriously I would use friends machine shop favors on other engines if cash wasn't involved.)

It's better to add up the cost of oversize pistons, the machine work including head work, and compare it to to the $6850.00 cost of a NEW AMG GEP Optimizer long block. The other justification is not buying a new or used pickup at $30K+. Short of that locate an surplus AMG GEP Optimizer and add up the same machine work cost and maybe you come out a little cheaper...

Gapless rings and a timing gear set to get rid of the stretch prone chain are two very good upgrades followed by a better turbo. ARP head studs if you have a budget left over.
 
Thank you WarWagon. I have a few upgrades from Kennedy I did to mine several years ago. I put in timing gears, the HO water pump, fan clutch, upgraded fan, and dual thermostat housing. I'm certainly not opposed to finding an AMG GEP longblock matter of fact I'd prefer it, however they seem to be hard to find. Several forums talk up Ted's, but when I checked their website they had 1 and it was a center mount. Unfortunately in my location we have no respectable trustworthy diesel shops that I trust. And the couple we do have admittedly don't know anything about the 6.5, and would rather not mess with them. I love my truck, but I just don't have the budget to fork out 7 grand for a brand new optimizer, plus the add-on(s) that I would want on a new engine. If you or anyone has any suggestions, I certainly would be willing to check them out.
 
I woild not spend the money at a machine shop on the gm 6.5. Open up the blocks you have and check for cracks. If thats good check the heads for cracks and straight edge all 4 block to head surfaces.

Needing to buy oversized pistons is the same as a shattered block to me- just not worth anything- waste of money. If a gm block is good- the crank and rods are usually good.

2 ways to deal with centermount turbo oil holes.
1. Drill and tap so npt fittings plug them off. Just be sure to clean out all the shavings.
2. Little piece of 1/8" angle iron shaved flat on gasket area. Use factory seal and drill 2 mounting holes in angle iron- and bolt 'er down just like you are mounting the turbo.

For the heads either use your heads and intake, or you could use van heads and intake, but you will have to do some fabricating to make the center piece of the intake work. If you run an innercooler, you could reverse the 2 side so the inlets are in front.

All the gm blocks are prone to cracking main webs and back in cylinder #8. Centermount blocks are more prone to #8 because the added heat of the turbo uppipe adding more heat.

You mentioned the h.o. waterpump. Does it use 4 bolts to mount the fanclutch or does the fan clutch spin on?

Centermount block pics soon to follow.
 
Thank you Will. I appreciate all the info. Honestly I'm having second thoughts about the process after reading, learning and getting advice from folks that have had the experience already. As far as the fan clutch, honestly it has been so long since I put the thing on I don't remember. My truck is in such good shape I've almost convinced myself to invest in a new optimizer long block and be done with it. I just hate the price tag. But, you get what you pay for, and it seems from what I have learned they are worth the investment.
 
If there is any way you can afford the optimizer- do it.

Only thing better is more expensive- the p400 from Leroy. Absolutely the dream version of a 6.5.

IMG_2694.JPG

As you can see the angle iron piece would have to be notched for the oil pump drive- but easy to do. The vertical piece would be on the front side of the engine and could be cut most of the way off- just a little ridge for strength. And could face downward to be out of the way.
 
Thank you Will. Exactly what I needed. I can at least let the machine shop check the out the picture. I called Leroy when I first started this process back in March. I was going to go all the way with the P-400. He didn't have any available and said GEP told him it would be mid to late April before they would be able to ship any. Then my DW started adding things up, and well, we all know how that goes.
 
Yes sir, I did exactly that, and perused through used ones also. Didn't help much. Kept mumbling something about not needing a diesel, blah, blah, blah. The "Charlie Brown" teacher hearing kicked in and I stopped listening. Still working on that......more to come.
 
bigschaf36 said:
Yes sir, I did exactly that, and perused through used ones also. Didn't help much. Kept mumbling something about not needing a diesel, blah, blah, blah. The "Charlie Brown" teacher hearing kicked in and I stopped listening. Still working on that......more to come.
Click to expand...

Take her to the SAS shoe store and tell her she can Fing walk OR ride in/drive a nice diesel...
 
Haha. Of course she has the newer nicer Jeep so, what "dad" drives....not all that important. I think I have her convinced now, after all the sound advice, Peninsular is going to get some business from me.
 
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