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6.2 not running properly

chrisk1500

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I know - wrong section....this one gets a lot more traffic though...

84 Chev 1500 w/6.2 diesel (C code)

The truck will start and idle for about 1 second and then die. If I hold the pedal to the floor while starting it, it will run and stay running at WOT until I let up on the pedal. If I let off just a touch, the engine will die.

Getting 12 volts to the pink wire on the IP....battery connections are clean and tight, same with grounds....

I replaced the mechanical lift pump with an electric pump. Lots of fuel out of the filter bleed.

What's the problem guys? New IP time? I just got this truck to use as a farm beater....don't want to sink big $$$ into it....

Thanks

PS - mods can move this if it absolutely is not allowed to stay in the 6.5 section....
 
Pull the cover, see if the solenoids'n'pieces are still in one piece..................
 
Pull what cover? IP cover?

Sorry....first 6.2....some stuff is alien compared to the 6.5....
 
Pull the cover off the IP - careful with the gasket - go to the 6.2 forum for in-depth info
 
careful putting that top cover back on. if you put it on wrong you'll jam the metering valve into a WOT state and the shutoff solenoid won't shut it down.

I've read to put the cover back on you have to slide it from front of the engine to the back.

The older pumps the governor ring would crumble and plug everything up inside. An updated ring came out that didn't fall apart like the original did. I can't remember what the new updated ring was called. The pump that came off my blazer had a little tag with an "E" on it and it had the updated ring.

Also check for any rust inside with that cap off.

0809dp_08_z+stanadyne_db2_injection_pump+housing_cover.jpg
 
Ooooo.....might just be worth the $300 to get a new pump....then I will take the old one apart....looks like too many springs for me to wreck inside there...
 
DB2-829-XXXX

Rotary Distributor-type with metering-valve in the Barrel, 2-plunger 8-cyl 0.29" pump plunger diameter

Good input, Dave - clean pump

The cross-shaft is the throttle-shaft - the spring is throttle-return

The left spring on the plunger rod is governor-relief to protect the governor-ring - the right spring is throttle-relief to protect the metering-valve - both allow accel pedal movement beyond IP limits - the vertical spring on the right across the rod actuates the rotary metering-valve in the barrel, part of the distributor head

Lots of plastic crumbles from the governor or HPCA solenoid, or lots of rust will require replacement - you could pull that one and have it checked - black label indicates original, blue label indicates later new\rebuilt with revisions, red label indicates later new, iirc..................
 
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I took off the return line check valve fitting and the truck ran like a top. Put the fitting back in and the truck won't run.

I took it back off and replaced it with a 'straight' through fitting and the truck runs like a champ....

What would cause that?
 
The HPCA solenoid check valve is stuck, or the fitting is stopped up - pull the cover and check it out - install from the front, sliding it into place beneath the linkage
 
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Thanks jd....I'll let you know what I find....or I may just slap in an IP...they are waaaay cheaper than the DS4 stuff...
 
that fitting has a little glass "bead" in it and a spring so it opens at a certain psi i believe. mine was sticking and i pulled it off and cleaned it w/ carb cleaner and it worked fine after that.

If that's all that's wrong i'd clean it out and go from there. Then again i'm always for doing the free or mostly free stuff first. ):h
 
Sorry, was away for the weekend. That fitting you took off on the return. If you can swap it with another one or try and clean it. I rememeber one of mine doing the same thing and I swapped that with a junk IP I had. I have never opened up a DB2. For 300$ it was never worth my effort.
 
Dangerous D,
I wanna keep this thread on point for Chris.
The answers to your questions will be here Soon.
Chrisk
If you end up doing a pump let me know. Easiest you will ever do. Not much to it. I know your a fast wrench and in my hay day(last one I did was about 10 yrs ago) I could , if reman sitting sitting next to me, do it in about 2.5 hrs.
 
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